Tuesday, September 30, 2008

9-29 (Monday)
We had a lovely breakfast in our lovely hotel. We were living high on the hog - just think, a bath mat!!!Manuel arrived at 7:05 abut wasn't due until 7:30. Barbara wasn't ready so he drove around. We got to the airport at 8:00 for our 9:30 flight - enough time for Barbara to do some more shopping.
We really hated to leave Cuzco today. It was so beautiful and warm. We needed at least 10 more days added onto our trip.

9_30 (Tuesday)

Will write a little more later. We leave the hotel at 3 a.m. Wed morning for our flight to Miami.

Today we visited the museum of Inquisition and Parliament. We have just gotten home from Para gliding out over the sea and up close to buildings. Barbara shopped and we had dinner.

last night I slept under two wool blankets and in my fleece jacket.

We're had a great trip even thought Barbara's feet have smelled the entire time!!!! (She says this everyday and I keep telling her that I was going to put it in the blog.) Thank goodness my nose has been stopped up and I haven't smelled her feet once.

When I get home I'll try to include some pictures of us paragliding.
9-28 (Sunday)

Finally, a computer that has the same keys as the one at home!

The electric went off this morning while Barbara was in the bathroom. It got cold in the room but didn't last too long.

We had breakfast, checked out ($90) and then took a cab to the bus station. We're on our way back to Cuzco.

They put the wand over us again before we got on the bus. When it buzzed they didn't pay any attention to it. They just told us to go on. They videoed our faces again.

We stopped twice. At the first stop some guy had an assigned seat next to me so I got up and moved so I'd have two seats. At the second stop someone tried to sit next to Barbara, she told him to get lost.

We stopped at some unauthorized places and they let people ride underneath the bus. It also appeared that we were carrying counterban of cigarettes because right before we arrived in Cuzco the bus stopped and they quickly pulled at least 10 large packages out from the belly of the bus and hurriedly loaded them into a car. We could see through the plastic and could see they were cigarettes. We thought there were at least 20 cartons in each package.
It took six hours to get from Puno to Cuzco. That's longer than it takes to get from Lima to Miami. Manuel was at the station to pick us up.

We checked into our new hotel. We felt like we had died and gone to heaven. The room was beautiful. Not only did it have a key card entry BUT we had TWO rolls of toilet paper and a bath mat!!! We're paying more than usual but we deserve it. We repacked and then went out to dinner. It began raining. We're hoping for good weather in the morning when we fly to Lima.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Puno











Riding in bicycle taxi














Writing in my journal in our coooold room


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Colonial Sacramento in Uruguay
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Argentina



Iguazu














Iguazu Falls
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jugle walk













swinging on vine in jungle









Barbara and friends
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outside of cuzco
amazon monkey
my boyfriend at the Amazin lodge
Barbara modeling
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Chris, who saved me on Machu Picchu, when I yelled "HELP."

Monkey friend - Iquitos

Tony, the monkey who loved Barbara
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Saturday, September 27, 2008

9-27 Saturday



I drank coca tea at breakfast because I thought I might be having stomach problems. If I was the coca took care of it.



We were picked up at the hotel around 6:45. We went around to several hotels picking up others. We had a van full by the time we finished.



We departed in a slow motorized boat for the Uros floating islands. these are man made islands where the people live permantely. The islands are interwoven with the totora reed which grows in the shallows of the lake. the islands are constructed of many layers of the reeds. When they rot away from the bottom they are replaced on top. The people must make entirely new islands about every 25 years. The Uros build canoe like boats from the reeds which are used for fishing and transportation. THe water doesn´t come through but it feels squishy when you walk. The islands must be anchored to prevent them from floating away.



The first island we visited wasn´t very big. Only six families or 28 people live on it. If they get mad at each other they might cut the island in two and float one half away from the other.



The tour alternates between the 40 some island to give everyone a chance to sell their wares.



The last island we visited was Taquile Island but it isn´t floating. It was a long hard walk to the top where we had lunch. Then we had to walk over 500 steps down. We thought this island was a bit of a waste of time.



Tomorrow we go back to Cuzco.

Friday, September 26, 2008

9-26 Friday



Even though I slept under the two heavy blankets I got up in the night and put on my fleece. I should have put on my earmuffs.



We didn´t have breakfast until almost 9:00. We had a wonderful day doing just what we wanted at our own pace.



We started out by walking to the Plaza de Armas. We went into the cathedral. It appeared they were having a service so Barbara went up to have communion only to find out she was participating in a funeral!



Next door to the cathedral was the Casa del Corregidor with some cute shops. Within the courtyard was a charming cafe.



We went on up the street and saw the balcony where one of Peru´s viceroys used to live.



We walked back to Lima Street and ate in an interesting restaurant with old clothes irons all over the walls. We split a dish of alpaca followed by dessert.



We walked on down Lima to parquet Pino and saw an 18th century church. From there we went to the Central Market. We walked through it but it was mostly finished for the day.



Lastly we walked to Lake Titicaca. We will leave from the docks in the morning for a full day tour. Going back to the hotel we rode in a bicycle taxi.



The heather in our room does no good what so ever. we wear all our jackets and scarves when we´re in the room. My fingers are so cold I can hardly type on the computer.
9-25 THursday

Another early day. We hauled all our stuff down three flights of stairs. We woke the ¨gatekeeper¨and had her unlock the doors. We walked down the hill at 6:30 and checked out a super nice hotel. We had decided earlier we wanted a nice hotel no matter what it cost. We signed on for the 28th when we get back from Puno. Our new place has a lift! YEAH

We went back to our hotel for cocoa and bread )breakfast) We were picked up at 7:20 to go to the bus station. The driver didn´t seem to know where it was. We got to a station and it was then that he asked us what line we were on. When we told him he drove away from that station and appeared to go to the bus offices. He went inside, came right back out and started driving again. Barbara was a nervous twit, wringing her hands while I filed my nails. She said she couldn´t believe I was filing in a time of crisis. We went back to the same bus station which turned out t be the correct one. We were in plenty of time as the bus didn´t leave until 8:30. We had to have our bags checked before we could get on. After everyone was in and seated they came around and stuck a video camera in each of our faces and recorded us. I was sitting in the very first seat with Barbara right behind me. The driver, engineer and conductor were all sitting in an enclosure. It was so weird because there were curtains all around the enclosure so not only could we not see the driver we also couldn´t see where we were going. We didn´t like it at first but then decided it kept us from being so scared of the driving. At 10:30 they served us a ham and cheese sandwich and a drink. We saw some interesting scenery along the way. A lot of the land was very arid.

We rolled into Puno about 2:30. No one was there to pick us up. I found the number of our hotel and called to let them know we were here. The hotel owner sent someone for us. Our room was freezing - we asked for a heater.

We walked to Lima Street which is a pedestrian only street with the best fafes and shops. We split a lovely dinner. By the time we left it was getting really cold. We stopped at an ATM and then I bought a cap.

Our room was still freezing when we got back even though the heater was on. I had to wash my hair. The bathroom was like ice because the windows didn´t close all the way.

I crawled under two heavy blankets and tried to warm up.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

9-24 )Wed
They told us breakfast didn´t open until 5 a.m. but when we arrived some people head already eaten. This was the best )breakfast included) of the whole trip but we didn´t get to enjoy it because we were supposed to be in the bus line at 5Ñ10. By the time we arrived there must have been at least 100 people already in line.

People want to arrive at Machu Picchu to see the sun come up and also to try to get a ticket to climb Waynapiccu, a very tall straight up mountain to the side of the lost city. They only allow 400 to climb a day. 200 at 8Ñ00 and 200 at 10Ñ00.

After we had our ticket punched we entered Machu Picchu. It was an awesome sight. We´ve all seen pictures but they don´t do it justice. It was incredible. Thankfully it is lower than Cuzco so we didn´t have to worry about altitude. The first thing we did was walk to the other side of the complex to try to get our ticket to climb Waynapiccu.
There was already a line when we arrived. We got so mad because people kept butting in line. Barbara told one guy off. We did manage to got a ticket for the 10:00 climb.

We walked around until 8:20 when we met our guide. There were about 10 people in our English speaking group. The guide was excellent and very funny. We finished the tour around 10:30. We went back to the main gate and got our passport stamped with a Machu Picchu stamp.

We made our way over to Wayanapiccu and signed in for the climb at 11:25. We could go anytime between 10 and 1:00. You have to sign in and include your passport number. That way they can account for everyone being off the mountain. Barbara walked about 5-8 minutes and decided it wasn´t for her so she went back. I pressed on. A few people signed in after I did but they soon passed me. It was a hard steep climb. In some places there was a cable to hold onto but they were few and far between. In some places you had to raise your leg almost to your chest to step up onto the next rock. Thank goodness I had my trekking pole with me. I needed if for balance and to push myself up. The people coming down would encourage me. They´d say, you can do it, go slowly, only 15 to 20 minutes to the top. After I´d gone another 20 minutes someone else would say, only 20 more minutes to the top. In some places the trail was very narrow and in other places it was a sheer drop. Naturally there were no guard rails. Near the top was a large flat area to stand and look out, the drop was straight down. The view from the top was magnificent. You could look down on the lost city of MP, see the bus road winding up the mountain, the train station in Aguas Calientes and the river far below. It usually takes an hour to climb but it took me and hour and a half.

As I got ready to start down a few drops of rain began to fall. This really scared me because I knew how slippery the rocks would be and how dangerous but it didn´t last long.

It appeared that I was the only one left on the mountain. I couldn´t hear anyone like I had previously. The trail wasn´t well marked. At one point I had to make a decision to go right or left. I chose right because it looked steeper down the direction I was trying to go. I had to crawl over a log stairway which I knew I hadn´t done on the way up but I thought this must just be another way down. As I continued I noticed there was a lot of yellow moss growing all over the side of the mountain. I knew I hadn´t seen that on the way up. I came to a place where I could see through the jungle and realized I could no longer see MP, my goal. I didn´t know whether to go back up or continue down. I realized I was lost. I knew I need to be at the entrance to MP by 3:00 in order to catch the 5:00 train. I wasn´t scared about being left on the mountain because I had registered but I was terrified of missing the train. I sat down on a rock right where I was and started yelling HELP. After yelling several times I heard some yell, where are you? If I knew I wouldn`´t be yelling HELP. After that I didn´t hear anything else. I began yelling again. Finally walking towards me was a Chinese guy )from Chendu= who now lives in Canada and some Preuvian guy who didn´t speak any English. You can´t imagine how happy I was to see them. I told them I was lost. They said I was n the other side of the muntain. They were on their way out so the three f us went together. We wnet back to the place where I had turned right instead of left. If I had gone about 20 feet that way I would have seen MP and known I was on the correct path. I was so happy when I got to the registration booth and signed myself off the mountain. I was filty from head to tow. My hands were a combination of black and amber color from grabbing onto rocks and the cable. After washing in the bathroom at the entrance and thanking Chris, from Chendu, profussely I got on a bus 3¨;00 down the mountain to Aguas Calientes. I met Barbara in the hotel. We went for a quick pizza before walking down to the train station.

We pulled out at 5¨_03 due to arrive back in Cuzco at 9;00. Sitting with me were the mother and daughter from Alaska. They were both sick. Next to me was a black girl from Paris traveling by herself. The four seats faced eaqch other so we were knee to knee with no way to stretch out our legs. As we progressed on down the track the light began to flicker then they went out and the train was at a complete stop for about 25 mintues. They said they were having mechanical problems. Fianlly wieth a lot of jerking and bumping we got going. We arrived at a station with thing still not under control It was more with the lights and banging. We asked how much lnger till Cuzco - an hour and a half. Out the window on the platform was a woman holding a sign saying to take the bus to Cuzco for 6 soles and arrive in 15 mintues at the town square. More than half the train jumped off and got on the bus. That´s exactly what we wanted to do but we had a van and driver waiting for us at the train station with no way to contact him. We had no choice but to stay on the train.

After leaving the station we went about 5 minutes and stopped out in the middle of a field. They said they were going to bring in a new engine. Everyone was so mad. The Spanish women were really giving the workers an ear full. We finally got going again - we would go forward and then backwards traversing the switch backs. Barbara was scared we didn´t have any breaks and that we would be a backwards runaway train.

We arrived in Cuzco at 11;00. Our driver was there and took us to our hotel. We had to wake the girl to let us in. This time our room was on the 3rd floor with no lift. We had to shower and get packed to go to Puno in the morning.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

9-23 (Tuesday)



We got up around 5 .am. to prepare for today´s journey. We hauled our suitcases downstairs to store them and paid our bill. We had just started walking down the hill to check out a new hotel when our van arrived. I had the driver stop by the old hotel to see if they had found my medicine. They hadn´t.



We arrived at the station along with all the other tourists heading to Machu Picchu. We boarded the backpackers train for our four hour ride to Aguas Calientes where we will spend the night before going on to MP the next day.



The train would go forward for awhile and then back up. It did four different switch backs. We had breakfast on the train (not included!) The two guys from Seattle that we saw at dinner last night were right across the aisle from me.



We saw trekkers from the window and learned that the Inca Trail had been closed for a few days due to a fire on the mountain. We could see where it was all scorched. It reminded me of our trek in Irian Jaya. There was an active fire where we were trekking that time.



In our car were two girls and a guy from London who had been in the Great Amazon Race. They told us that an American team from California won the race by two hours. They said that was unheard of. That team made a long skinny raft instead of a short wide one.



After arriving in Aguas Calientes we walked around the town, shopped and Barbara had a beer. We sat outside for a long time. It was really nice.



Tomorrow we climb!! We´ll be leaving the hotel at 5:30 so we can see the sun come up over Machu Picchu. By the way, we love our hotel here. It is super!!
9-22 (Monday)



After breakfast we packed up, checked out and hauled all our stuff down the hill to the new hostel. Thank goodness it was down, we could NEVER have pulled our stuff up hill.



We walked down to the Plaza de Armas with its two extraordinary churches, the Cathedral and the Jesuit Iglesi a de la Compania. We shopped around the square and took pictures.



We went back to the pharmacy and bought more altitude pills to take with us to Lake Titicaca. I tried to get more cash our of the ATM machine but was refused. PANIC! I went to another machine and no problem. I guess the 1st machine was out of money.



We went into the Cathedral for a look around. It was fabulous.



When we came out we heard chanting and a lot of noise. It was the start of some demonstration. We went into a restaurant and sat upstairs on the balcony so we could observe what was happening. Several thousand people must have gathered around the square with banners, sign and speeches. Apparently they were demonstrating against the government. It lasted about an hour. We walked down some of Peru´s oldest streets. We saw a woman weaving belts. Barbara bought the entire weaving apparatus from her including the rusty nail with which she had it attached to the floor. It´s authentic! We walked on to the Temple of the Sun where we also took the tour. Barbara bought a carving of Christ to help a boy´s carving school.



It was getting cold and dark so we went back to the hotel to get ready to leave for Machu Picchu in the morning.



We went out to dinner (chicken which we split) where we met a couple of guys who just arrived from Seattle. They´re going to Machu Picchu in the morning. We stopped and did a short internet.



We don´t like our new hotel! It has hot water but not in the sink for washing our clothes. I had to wash my shirt in the shower! The shower curtain was too short and water got all over the floor. The window was at the head of the bed and the cold air came right in on me. I turned around with my head at the foot of the bed. the blanket was so heavy you could hardly lift it. The wheel fell off the heater that we rented! I was super stressed when I realized I left my sleeping pills in the last hotel.



When we got in bed we were bitching about the "tourist ticket" we bought for $45 and only used twice. I thought we paid $22 but that was the day I was so out of it with altitude sickness that I didn't´t know what I was agreeing to. On the internet tonight we found out we could have changed our La Paz/Lima ticket for $6.44 instead of buying a new one for $144.


We started laughing our heads off when we agreed that we would try to find another hotel when we get back from Machu Picchu.
9-21 (Sunday)



I felt 100% better this morning but Barbara was still suffering. We had breakfast at the hotel. The snotty girls were there waiting to leave on their trek.



We were so happy that we weren´t being picked up until 9 a.m. We didn´t have to get up at the crack of dawn after both of us had been sick.



We had hired a private car and driver to take us to the Sacred Valley.



After first stopping at the side of the road at a tourist trap (we didn´t buy anything) we went on to Pisca to the market which is only open on Sunday, Tues, and Thurs. We did drop a couple of coins here. We saw lots of men and women dressed in their native costumes. They were very colorful. We went on to Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and then across the high plains to Chinchero. This was the driver´s home town so his little boy, who had been staying with his grandparents, rode back to Cuzco with us. Barbara was still suffering this morning with altitude.



On our way to dinner we saw another hostel. We decided to go in and check it out. It was about $30 instead of the $50 we´re paying so we decided to move tomorrow in the morning. The Corihuasi where we´re currently staying has wooden floors and you can hear every stop the people above us take. When they take a shower or flush the toilet it sounds like the water is running right down our walls.
9-20 (Saturday)



We were up at 4 a.m. to get ready for our 5 a.m. pick up to the airport. We went around to several hotels and picked up others. We got to the airport before the ticket counter opened but we were first in line!



We flew into Lima and literally had to run for our flight to Cuzco. First we had to stand in a long line to pay our departure fee and then run along the tarmac to the plane. We were the last ones on. Our luggage didn't´t make the fight but it came in on the next flight about 5 minutes later. There was a guy from the hostel to pick us up. Two snotty girls from San Diego were in the van with us. It was a long way to the hotel but it was in a good location, about a block or two from the city center. The hostel was rather basic but quaint. At least we had a bathroom that we could turn around in. They gave us cocoa tea as soon as we arrived to help with altitude sickness.



We had a lot of organizing of our future plans to do. We walked down the narrow cobble street towards the square. We saw a cute restaurant and stopped in for lunch. When we go to the square we ran in to check our email to see if we had a message from a hotel we´re trying to book in Puno. We walked down to the LAN office and booked a flight from Cuzco to Lima ($144.) We have a flight from La Paz to Lima but because of the unrest there we´re not going. They are charging Americans $140 just to cross the border.







On the way back to the hostel we stopped at a pharmacy and I bought some medicine for my stuffed up nose. We went to a travel agency to book our trip to Machu Picchu, our trip to Lake Titicaca and our trip tomorrow to the Sacred Valley. It was here that I got hit with altitude sickness. I went over and stretched out on a bench in the office while Barbara did all the work. I was so sick I couldn´t walk back to the hotel. Barbara ran back to the pharmacy and bought some pills for altitude sickness. Valentine, a guy from the agency, flagged a taxi. He and Barbara helped me into the hostel. I was freezing. I crawled under four wool blankets with my clothes on including a sweater and my fleece. I drank some more cocoa tea and took a pill. I told Barbara she´d better put the trash can near the bed. It wasn´t long before I tossed my cookies three times. Barbara had the staff come in and turn on the heart because I was shaking. By this time she had altitude sickness but only the headache. I got up around 10 p.m. and put on my jammies.
9-19 (Friday)

We had arranged a half day tour this morning. with Bedder. He picked us up at 8:15. We gave him all the money up front and told him if he could bargain for lower prices than he estimated he could keep whatever was left over.

The first place we went was the Beliem Market. Just like so many of the foreign markets they had an assortment of fruits, veggies and of course the recently slaughtered animals. Beliem City or section is very poor. It is also know as the floating city because when the river rises during the winter the houses are on huge logs and they float. Some are just built on stilts. Sometimes the people have to move to the second story because the ground floor will be under water. We hired a canoe and went up river for a ways to see how the people live. Outside their houses and built over the river is their toilet with tarps for privacy.

We went back to the hotel Victoria and picked up the Peruvian couple and their two children who had been at the lodge with us. We went to the harbor where we got in a bigger boat. We went up river stopping where a native family lived to observe some of their animals: turtles, snakes, a baby sloth and lots of monkeys swinging around in the house. We went on the the Butterfly and animal farm. This farm was started 26 years ago by a woman from Austria. She was our personal guide. We saw lots and lots of different kinds of monkeys, boas, and ant eater, a tapir, beautiful butterflies and a jaguar. One monkey, Tony, fell in love with Barbara. He wrapped his tail around her neck, sat on her head and groomed her hair. Tony was very jealous and when I walked over to tell Barbara something Tony went nuts and tried to bite me.

One the way back from the river we were in a motorcycle taxi (the same as a tuk tuk if you´ve been to Bangkok) when we ran out of gas. The cycle driver behind us with the family pulled next to us with his tuk tuk and put his foot on our bumper. He pushed us like this all the way to the gas station. It was so funny.

We walked to town to have lunch at 3:30. We ate at little place right on the town square. I had a lot of food left over so I asked the waitress if I could give it to a couple of boys who were watching us. A man also came and made the motions of begging for food. The waitress took my food and some from other people and split it three ways. She gave a plate to each of the boys and one to the man. I think he was either mentally unstable or drunk because he threw his plate into the street. One of the boys ran and picked it up.

We went back to the grocery store. One the way we stopped in a hardware store where I bought a "tube" to put one of my necklaces in.

When we got back to the hotel we walked across the street and did email. It must have been way over 100 degrees in there with no fan. I was soaking wet when I left.

We showered, washed our hair and repacked to leave at 5 in the morning for Cuzco.

Monday, September 22, 2008

9-18 (Thursday)

We got to sleep in this morning but we were awake by 6:00. Last night we were laughing so hard because I broke the toilet seat. Today you had to balance on on it to keep from falling on the floor.

After breakfast we took a boat across the rive to an island where we did a jungle walk. We were wearing high rubber boots provided by the hotel. We trudged through water and mud. One of the interesting things we saw were the leaf cutter ants carrying leaves to their nest. at one point there was a big Tarzen type vine that we all took turns swinging on. It was so much fun. We turned around at the giant lily pad pond.

When we got back to the lodge it was time to clean up, pack up and have lunch before saying goody-by. We paid our bar bill and then tipped freddy. When I gave him my money I also gave him a big hug. That sent him over the moon. He was staying behind with Erwin who had paid for a four day program.

We boarded the boat which was already full for our trip up river and back to civilization. Everyone got off in Iquitos except the four remaining from our original group. We went on with our new guide, Bedder Cheviez, to the Borna Village. It was kid of a touristy things: they were dressed in native costumes, the chief had his face painted and they did a little dance for us before we were expected to buy some of their wears. I bought two necklaces that I lover. Now I´m happy.

We checked into our new hotel, the Acosta, then did a little work on the internet. We decided not to go to La Paz in Bolivia because of all the trouble and rioting that is going on. We were only going there to get a flight to Lima. We´re hoping to change our ticket.

Tonight we walked to La Mason down by the river for dinner. We had a hard time finding it. One person would send us one way and the next person the other. Finally two guys from an office escorted us to the door.

Outside we talked to a professor from some college who lives in St. Petersburg, Florida. Inside there was only one person, David, from Ireland. We went over to his table to find out what dish he recommended. He was having gator chips. We invited him to eat with us and we also ordered the gator.

After dinner we walked back to the grocery store for some water, soda and laundry soap. It was about 9:00 when we got back to the hotel - just in time to do laundry! I have a sore throat and can hardly breathe.
9-17 (Wednesday)

We got up at 5:30 to be ready to leave on the boat at 6a.m. We were "birding" along the edge of the Amazon. We were near a large island that Freddy (our guide) said he has seen shrink as much as 20 meters in 10 years.

When we got back to the hotel we had a wonderful breakfast. We started on later on a jungle walk in the rain. I had my poncho and umbrella. Can you imagine anything more weird? We saw the kind of plant that the natives use for their toilet paper. We saw some very dangerous ants. Then all hell broke loose with the weather. We made our way back to the lodge to hunker down. The main reason they return to the lodge during a storm when there is wind is because all the rain makes the root system vulnerable and something could fall on you. According to Freddy a tourist was hit on the head by a falling limb and killed.

While we waited out the rain we looked at Margareta, the pet spider and I wrote in my journal. A new batch of tourist arrived. After lunch we all went down to wave good-by to Hashemet who was going back to Iquitos and then on to Lima tonight.

Barbara later came to where I was writing and informed me that Freddy, who has two gold front teeth wanted to know if I was single and told her I made his heart pound. That reminded me of the 26 year old no tooth guy from Wadi Rum (Jordan) who wanted to sleep with me in the desert.

It finally stopped raining late in the afternoon and we took a boat to a sugar cane distillery. From there we walked over to where they sell the stuff plus other handicrafts. I didn´t buy anything. Salvador from our group bought some jungle viagra and we all teased him.

Lastly we went to a small village. There was a kindergarten, elementary school and secondary school. There probably weren´t more than 200 kids in all three schools if that many. The people there were also selling but it wasn´t high pressure.

We went back to the lodge to prepare for a night walk (6:30) into the jungle. We got on our swamp boots (provided by the hotel),ponchos and headed out with our flashlights. We couldn´t get over how much of the river bank had fallen in just today. At one place we saw a giant tree that had been claimed by erosion. We sloshed through much and walked along board paths. We saw a giant frog sitting on a log. We saw a praying mantes, a poisonious salamander, leaf cutter ants and spiders. At one point we all turned off our torches. You couldn´t see your own hand in front of your face. We made a big circle and ended up back at the lodge in time for dinner (7:30) The sky was very clear and the stars bright tonight so we were hoping for better weather in the morning.

Friday, September 19, 2008

9-16 (Tuesday)



I got up at 6 a.m. thinking it was 7:00. It started POURING when we woke up. We had breakfast in the hotel. It was there that we met and talked to a professional photographer from Florence, Italy. He was working on his third book. This one was going to be about global warming. He and his buddy had hired a private plane to fly them over the Amazon and then on to a jungle lodge ($600) While I was waiting to have breakfast I could see Barbara talking to the desk clerk. When she came into the dining room she said she hoped I didn't mind but she got us booked into the Acosta Hotel. Apparently they had had a cancellation since last night. I didn't mind at all even though the location isn't as good as the Safari. We also had not seen the rooms. One good thing was that they take us to the airport. I did tell her I thought it was only fair that we go to the Safari when we get back and tell them we arent' coming.



As we were waiting in the lobby to be picked up we met a girl from Ft. Lauderdale who was telling us that her purse was stolen when she was in a restaurant a couple nights ago. She not only lost her money but her passport. She has to wait until she gets to Lima to go to the embassy and get another one. This is the second robbery we have heard about in two days.



She was in Iquitos with three guys from Florida to participate in the Great Amazon River Race. Two of the men were from Orlando. Ones name was Dave Knoki (something like that) and he lives on Lake Adair in College Park. I didn´t meet the other one because he hadn´t come downstairs.



We went out and got on the bus to take us to the river in the rain. First we stopped by the Acosta to pick up some people and we ran in to check out the rooms. They were about equal to the Safari but much older. We agreed to take it on Thurs and Fri nights. We went to another hotel to pick up someone else. There were 6 of us total.



The men loaded the boat with our luggage while we waited out of the rain. Finally we went to the river's edge and boarded. It was a fairly long ride down river to our jungle lodge, I would guess about an hour and a half. For half of the way it rained and we had the plastic siding down. As soon as it quit up went the siding and we were cold. After 20 minutes of traveling Barbara said it felt like a half a day.



We had a "welcome' drink *o.j. and then checked into our rooms. We looked around the lodge and took pictures. At 1230 we h a lovely lunch> chicken, rice, pork, hearts of palm, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans onions and fruit.



We took the boat down river again where we saw pink dolphins. The guide whistled to get them to surface. From there we went piranha fishing. I caught a silver one and the red one which is the most dangerous. It was a lot of fun.



There were six in our group who started out together and have remained > Salavador from Barcelona *no English, Erwin from Holland *he did a volunteer project for 3 weeks in Brazil watching river otters - he only saw one. Hasheme from Japan a student, and Sunghe a girl from Korea - she is an environmental engineer who volunteered the last two years in Peru. Now she's finished and on her way home in October.



Before dinner tonight we took the boat down river with our flashlights in hand to see if we could spot any interesting night life. That excursion was a wash out except for the river rat we saw swimming and then limb up on shore.



The electric was only on from 6-10 at night. We took showers *the water was hot but would suddenly go cold and back and forth. It was so nice listening to the night sounds instead of the TV. The thing that wasn't that great was crawling into a bed that felt wet. This is how it is in a rainforest.



I kept thinking about the woman from Columbia who was held hostage for 7 years and the 3 Americans for 5.
9-15 (Monday)



We got up at 5 a.m. to catch a cab at 6:00. We had a slight difference of opinion about our cab ride. Barbara thought we should go with the cab company the hotel recommended for 80 pesos and I thought we should take a metered cab. I felt the pressure because she relucently agreed to go in the metered one.



When I hailed the cab I made sure he understood where we were going. Then I asked him if he had enough petrol. He said, [si[ but I ran over to his side of the car and checked his gauge.



He did a good job of driving until we got about 2/3 of the way to the airport and he appeared to be falling asleep. We tried to talk to him to wake him up. He cracked the window and let in some cold air. The metered cab worked out just fine. It cost 63 pesos, the hotel wanted 80 and when we first arrived we paid 90.



We requested 2 aisle seats on our flight. The girl assured us we got them. When we got on Barbara was in the middle. she was furious. Right before we took off the guy to her left got up and moved to the back with his friends. WE were in a row of three so we had an empty seat between us. It was a four and a half flight from Buenos Aires to Lima. We had breakfast, slept, read and I loaded pictures into my computer.



We had almost 4 1/2 hours in LIma before our flight to Iquitos. We had to go through customs, immigration, claim our bags and recheck in. We also had to pay a departure fee even though we weren't going international. We ate lunch, looked in the stores and waited.



When we finally took off the plane was making a terrible noise but we went anyway. Once we got in the air it stopped.



Iquitos (the only major city that can only be reached by air) was about like Florida when we landed: hot, sticky and a light mist. We met two embassy gus when we got off the plane. they had come in to see an American who was in jail. Barbara said it was a sex charge. The single one of the two was so good looking. He had trained as a Seal. The other one had trained as a special forces ranger.



There was a van from the hotel to pick us up. Some guy grabbed our luggage and pointed it out. We thought he was the driver or hotel worker. It turns out he was just there to collect tips.



In the van was a couple from Ireland who had been traveling since the beginning of July. She was robbed on the bus from Puno to Cuzco. They thought they were on the tourist bus but it was the local. Her passport, money and journal were all gone. We got to the hotel Victoria Regia around 7 p.m. After checking in we walked to town to the grocery store. As we were walking we stopped at a pharmacy and I showed the guy a rash I had under my arm. He gave me some medicine and told me to use it twice a day.



When we got back to the hotel I tried to talk to management about giving us a discount after we got back from the jungle. He gave us one but it wasn't enough so we{re going to have to move.



Clever, the guy who sells jungle lodge tours, came over and gave us the low down on a lodge owned by our hotel. We gave him $180 US each. We were to be picked up at 8:30 in the morning.



Around 8:30 p.m. we set out walking to try to find a new hotel. We walked to the Acosta where we wanted to stay but the woman said they were full for Thurs and Fri nights. We walked on down the street looking at a couple here and there. We finally met a young guy in one of the places that offered to take us to the Safari Hotel that he thought we might like. It had a great location, and was fairly new. We told them we{d take the room for Thurs. and Friday nights. At the time I didn't know that Barb was was less than enthusiastic about it.



We went on back to our hotel to pack a small bag for the jungle the next day, shower and go to bed. I was so tired I didn't finish packing but went right to bed.

9-15 (Monday)



We got up at 5 a.m. to catch a cab at 6:00. We had a slight difference of opinion about our cab ride. Barbara thought we should go with the cab company the hotel recommended for 80 pesos and I thought we should take a metered cab. I felt the pressure because she relucently agreed to go in the metered one.



When I hailed the cab I made sure he understood where we were going. Then I asked him if he had enough petrol. He said, [si[ but I ran over to his side of the car and checked his gauge.



He did a good job of driving until we got about 2/3 of the way to the airport and he appeared to be falling asleep. We tried to talk to him to wake him up. He cracked the window and let in some cold air. The metered cab worked out just fine. It cost 63 pesos, the hotel wanted 80 and when we first arrived we paid 90.



We requested 2 aisle seats on our flight. The girl assured us we got them. When we got on Barbara was in the middle. she was furious. Right before we took off the guy to her left got up and moved to the back with his friends. WE were in a row of three so we had an empty seat between us. It was a four and a half flight from Buenos Aires to Lima. We had breakfast, slept, read and I loaded pictures into my computer.



We had almost 4 1/2 hours in LIma before our flight to Iquitos. We had to go through customs, immigration, claim our bags and recheck in. We also had to pay a departure fee even though we weren't going international. We ate lunch, looked in the stores and waited.



When we finally took off the plane was making a terrible noise but we went anyway. Once we got in the air it stopped.



Iquitos (the only major city that can only be reached by air) was about like Florida when we landed: hot, sticky and a light mist. We met two embassy gus when we got off the plane. they had come in to see an American who was in jail. Barbara said it was a sex charge. The single one of the two was so good looking. He had trained as a Seal. The other one had trained as a special forces ranger.



There was a van from the hotel to pick us up. Some guy grabbed our luggage and pointed it out. We thought he was the driver or hotel worker. It turns out he was just there to collect tips.



In the van was a couple from Ireland who had been traveling since the beginning of July. She was robbed on the bus from Puno to Cuzco. They thought they were on the tourist bus but it was the local. Her passport, money and journal were all gone. We got to the hotel Victoria Regia around 7 p.m. After checking in we walked to town to the grocery store. As we were walking we stopped at a pharmacy and I showed the guy a rash I had under my arm. He gave me some medicine and told me to use it twice a day.



When we got back to the hotel I tried to talk to management about giving us a discount after we got back from the jungle. He gave us one but it wasn't enough so we{re going to have to move.



Clever, the guy who sells jungle lodge tours, came over and gave us the low down on a lodge owned by our hotel. We gave him $180 US each. We were to be picked up at 8:30 in the morning.



Around 8:30 p.m. we set out walking to try to find a new hotel. We walked to the Acosta where we wanted to stay but the woman said they were full for Thurs and Fri nights. We walked on down the street looking at a couple here and there. We finally met a young guy in one of the places that offered to take us to the Safari Hotel that he thought we might like. It had a great location, and was fairly new. We told them we{d take the room for Thurs. and Friday nights. At the time I didn't know that Barb was was less than enthusiastic about it.



We went on back to our hotel to pack a small bag for the jungle the next day, shower and go to bed. I was so tired I didn't finish packing but went right to bed.

9-15 (Monday)



We got up at 5 a.m. to catch a cab at 6:00. We had a slight difference of opinion about our cab ride. Barbara thought we should go with the cab company the hotel recommended for 80 pesos and I thought we should take a metered cab. I felt the pressure because she relucently agreed to go in the metered one.



When I hailed the cab I made sure he understood where we were going. Then I asked him if he had enough petrol. He said, [si[ but I ran over to his side of the car and checked his gauge.



He did a good job of driving until we got about 2/3 of the way to the airport and he appeared to be falling asleep. We tried to talk to him to wake him up. He cracked the window and let in some cold air. The metered cab worked out just fine. It cost 63 pesos, the hotel wanted 80 and when we first arrived we paid 90.



We requested 2 aisle seats on our flight. The girl assured us we got them. When we got on Barbara was in the middle. she was furious. Right before we took off the guy to her left got up and moved to the back with his friends. WE were in a row of three so we had an empty seat between us. It was a four and a half flight from Buenos Aires to Lima. We had breakfast, slept, read and I loaded pictures into my computer.



We had almost 4 1/2 hours in LIma before our flight to Iquitos. We had to go through customs, immigration, claim our bags and recheck in. We also had to pay a departure fee even though we weren't going international. We ate lunch, looked in the stores and waited.



When we finally took off the plane was making a terrible noise but we went anyway. Once we got in the air it stopped.



Iquitos (the only major city that can only be reached by air) was about like Florida when we landed: hot, sticky and a light mist. We met two embassy gus when we got off the plane. they had come in to see an American who was in jail. Barbara said it was a sex charge. The single one of the two was so good looking. He had trained as a Seal. The other one had trained as a special forces ranger.



There was a van from the hotel to pick us up. Some guy grabbed our luggage and pointed it out. We thought he was the driver or hotel worker. It turns out he was just there to collect tips.



In the van was a couple from Ireland who had been traveling since the beginning of July. She was robbed on the bus from Puno to Cuzco. They thought they were on the tourist bus but it was the local. Her passport, money and journal were all gone. We got to the hotel Victoria Regia around 7 p.m. After checking in we walked to town to the grocery store. As we were walking we stopped at a pharmacy and I showed the guy a rash I had under my arm. He gave me some medicine and told me to use it twice a day.



When we got back to the hotel I tried to talk to management about giving us a discount after we got back from the jungle. He gave us one but it wasn't enough so we{re going to have to move.



Clever, the guy who sells jungle lodge tours, came over and gave us the low down on a lodge owned by our hotel. We gave him $180 US each. We were to be picked up at 8:30 in the morning.



Around 8:30 p.m. we set out walking to try to find a new hotel. We walked to the Acosta where we wanted to stay but the woman said they were full for Thurs and Fri nights. We walked on down the street looking at a couple here and there. We finally met a young guy in one of the places that offered to take us to the Safari Hotel that he thought we might like. It had a great location, and was fairly new. We told them we{d take the room for Thurs. and Friday nights. At the time I didn't know that Barb was was less than enthusiastic about it.



We went on back to our hotel to pack a small bag for the jungle the next day, shower and go to bed. I was so tired I didn't finish packing but went right to bed.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

9-14 (Sunday)



The alarm went off at 6:00 but I had been awake since 4:30. We went to breakfast three times before it was open. We gulped down our food and then went out to grab a cab to the Buquebus where we would take a hydrofoil to Uruguay. We got a metered cab for about $5.



We ran upstairs to immigration only to find out we hadn´t checked in. They sent us back downstairs where we checked in and got our documents. Back upstairs we went to have our passports stamped a couple of times.



Sacramento or Colonia as it is known is in the southwest corner of Uruguay. It is about an hour across the Rio de la Plata (river) from Buenos Aires by hydrofoil.



The Portuguese founded the area in 1680. In 1995 it was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO.



We walked to the Visitor´s Center with a couple and their son from Houston. They were worried about what might have happened to their new house during hurricane Ike. Their son is working with the Peace Corp in Paraguay.



It was so cold on the boat and when we got off. I kept thinking the sun was going to break through and sure enough it did.



The town is very small so we didn´t have any trouble covering all the sights. We saw the City Gate, the Street of Sighs (an old Portuguese street with the original cobble stones. It has houses on both sides belonging to the first colonial period.) The Plaza Mayor: created during the foundation of the city. It´s the larges open space in the area. It was originally used for military maneuvers. The Lighthouse which was begun in 1845 and completed in 1857. The original ruins of the Viceroy´s House. The Basilica of the Holy Sacrament with its two bell towers. The 1866 wharf.



We shopped and Barbara bought her mate (pronounced ma-tay cup and straw plus two boxes of mate. I bought a mate spoon and a Christmas ornament. We had lunch at a darling restaurant. We split a meal of chicken with mushrooms and ham and some delicious potatoes. The whole meal was fabulous.



We walked all over town one final time looking at the colonial building and houses. We hurried on to the Buquebus station at 3:00 for our 4:00 departure. the station was packed. At least the boat was warmer going back to Buenos Aires.
9-13 (Saturday)



We got off to a better start this morning since we didn´t have to go through the bank nightmare. We found an ATM machine at the park when we were leaving yesterday.



We got to the bus station in time for the 8:10 departure. It took about 30 minutes to get to the park depending on how many people we had to pick up along the way.



It was clear but cold this morning. We both had on our fleece jackets. Barbara was going nuts because it was so cold but I kept assuring her it was going to warm up which it didn´t the sun came out and it was a beautiful day. We took the train to Garganta del Diablo (the Devil´s Throat.) You get off the train and walk about 15-20 minutes. What a sight! All of these waterfalls are absolutely mesmerizing. The best part was that the sun was out so our pictures were much better than yesterday. We walked to some other areas of the park that we missed yesterday. After we had lunch at our favorite fast food place we decided to split up. Barbara wanted to go into town and I wanted to stay and take more pictures.



I walked back to some of the places we had been yesterday and retook some pictures. At one point along the walkways I saw several coati´s (a raccoon type animal with a long nose and long tail.) I also got pictures of a rainbow over the falls. As I was leaving the park I saw a large lizard/iguana looking animal sunning himself beside the path.



Even though I exercise at home my calves are VERY sore from all the walking we did at the falls.



I caught the 3:00 bus back to town and did my email. We had arranged for the airport van to pick us up at 5<:00 for our 7 p.m. flight. At 5:15 Barbara went to the hotel desk to see if they knew why our transport had not arrived. They said the service called and said they would be at the hotel for us at 7:00! We had the hotel call back and tell them our flight was at 7:00. They sent a car for us. When we got to the airport (6:00) our flight had been delayed 30 minutes.



We arrived in Buenos Aires leaving warm weather behind for cold. We hired a cab at one of the stands and paid a flat rate (38 pesos -$14) to the hotel. We had to put up a fuss to get our old room back but we were successful. It was back to the usual routine - washing clothes,showering, and hoping we could sleep.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

9-12 (Friday)

We had breakfast in the hotel then walked down to the bank so Barbara could change some money. After she waited in line forever they told her they didn´t change money. We walked to another bank on the other end of town (it isn´t very big) and they said they changed money. While she waited in another long line I went back to the hotel to wait on her. When she came walking up I could tell something was wrong. She said when she got up to the teller she was told she had to fill in some paper before getting to the teller. She left with no changed money.



We walked to the local bus station and bought a ticket to Iguazu Falls (15 pesos round trip.) As we were driving out to the falls it started raining. At breakfast I saw a guy in the parking lot selling ponchos so I ran out and bought one for each of us.



We paid our fee (14 for Argentineans and 40 for foreigners.) The park is very well maintained with lots of bathrooms, snack bars and trash cans. The paths are beautiful even though in some places they were slippery today because of all the rain. It would rain, stop, and then rain again.



Some of the metal walkways went over parts of the river. The falls were just magnificent. We walked the inferior trails (isn´t that a funny nameÇ) and the superior trails today also known as the lower circuit and upper circuit.



The upper circuit is a half hour walk along trails with little difficulty because there are no steps. It goes deep into the jungle. All of a sudden you have a breathtaking view of the Falls.



The lower circuit is more difficult because it has stairs. Today was slow because they were wet and slippery. The lower circuit goes all the way down to the river. It was here that we took a boat over to San Martin Island. To get to the top of the island you had to climb 200 stairs. We saw some unusual birds, plant life and different views of the falls.



I would guess we left the park around 4:30 or 5:00 as it was beginning to get dark. We took the bus back to town. Barbara went to take a shower and wash clothes and I went to the net. Tonight we ate in a lovely little restaurant in town and split a beer.

Friday, September 12, 2008

9-11 (Thursday)

We had breakfast at the hotel and then decided to go to a public internet because the machine at the hotel was so slow. It was misty but not real cold as we walked to Florida Street.

We left our luggage in the lock up room at the hotel and took a small carry on for two nights. We hailed a cab (with a meter) and Barbara told him the domestic airport. As we were driving I commented that it looked like we were going to the international airport. She said if we weren´t there in 10 minutes we should question the guy who didn´t speak a word of English. As we approached I finally said to him, "no international." He had a horrified look on his face and started jabbering away. Barbara gave him a paper with our information. He pulled over to the side and read it and jabbered some more. Finally he pulled off the main highway and turned around. After we had been driving for an hour I tapped him on the shoulder and said, "pardon." Then I made the motion of driving a car and asked if he was driving us to the airport or to Iguazu FallsÇ He said the airport. Then we began to wonder if he was driving us to the airport in Uruguay. Finally we got to the domestic airport. It cost us a fortune but we felt blessed because he was also driving on a tank that was way below empty.

We got checked in and made it to the gate just fine. Barbara walked away from her carry on bag which I noticed right away so she recovered it. The couple sitting next to me on the plane were from south Florida. They had been in Mendoza.

When we landed the people clapped. Maybe I was missing something although I´m always extremely happy when the wheels hit the ground.

We found transport in a mini van ($5 each) to our hotel, The Liberator. It was a three star place but it was very nice with many tour groups staying there. I had a pool and the weather was hot enough that people were sitting around it. our room was very nice: a king size bed and two twins plus the bathroom was lovely.

We walked around the town and ate dinner outside along the street. We finally had our Argentine beef and it was wonderful. We split a beer. Yum, yum. Before we made it back to the hotel the sky opened up and almost soaked us before we could get back to the hotel.
9-10 (Wednesday)


I felt like a new person this morning. It´s amazing what sleep can do for you.

We had breakfast at the hotel and then walked down Florida Street to the travel agency to pay and pick up our documents for Iguazu Falls.

Barbara´s friend Mark, emailed her and said we must see Sacramento in Uruguay so we walked down to the river and bought tickets on the fast boat for Sunday. We walked around the Plaza San Martin and then over to the three block shortest street in Argentina, Arroyo, where we saw the very expensive hotel (can´t remember the name right now). I decided we should go in to have a look and use the facilities. The bathroom was VERY nice. We went to the gift shop and spent a long time talking to the clerk and looking at stuff. Barbara wanted to buy a mate "cup" but the woman advised waiting until we get to Uruguay, so she bought a mate book instead. We walked on to the Recoleta cemetery where Evita is buried. We went in the church and took some pictures. Some guy came up to me and told me I wasn´t supposed to take pictures. I informed him that the sign said you could if there wasn´t a service going on and that I had asked the guard and he said it was okay. We went on over to the cemetery. The mausoleums thee are incredible. Those families spent a fortune to intern their dead. We found Evita´s resting place after walking around for about 30 minutes. By this time it was after six so we decided to head back to the hotel and get packed up to go to Iguazu Falls in the morning.

We stopped at a little cafe on Florida Street to have a lite dinner. We had planned to have an Argentine steak tonight but neither one of us was hungry. When we came out of the cafe the vendors were setting up for the night market along the street. We stopped and listened to some singers and to watch the tango dancers. BA is really an exciting, happening city. I call it "lip lock" city because everywhere you look young people have their lips locked together.
9-9 (Tuesday)

We had a 3:30 wake up to meet the taxi at 4:00. Our flight to Buenos Aires didn´t leave until 7:15 but they say you have to be there three hours early and the airport can be a long way depending on traffic. We didn´t expect traffic at that time of morning and there wasn´t a lot. We also didn´t expect that the driver was going to have to stop for gas! The said, "just a little, just a little" but the station was closed. Barbara saw his gauge and said it was way below empty. Wouldn´t you think that´s something you would take care of before picking up your clientsÇ Somehow we made it (I guess it was the fumes.)

We checked our luggage, paid our departure fee ($30.25), ate breakfast at McDonalds and still had time to shop!

The bus we took out to the plane wound through all kinds of cargo. It was like going through a maze. Barbara and I had seats together on the exit but we jumped into empty middle rows so we could lie down. I swear no one was in their assigned seat by the time we landed. They, like we, were moving all over the plane. We landed in Buenos Aires at 11:15. Some guy right near me had on his headphones and sang at the top of his lungs for a great deal of the flight. The rough landing shut him up.

We took a cab from the airport to our hotel, the Gran Hispano, in town ($35.) A real sour puss checked us in. We didn´t like our room because it didn´t have a window even though it had three beds. We changed rooms to one with a balacony and a better bathroom.

Someone at the hotel directed us to a travel agency on Florida Street. We didn´t go to the suggested one because it was so fare away but found another. A great girl who spoke excellent English (rare) helped us arrange a trip to Iguazu Falls for Thursday. I was so out of it from lack of sleep I hardly knew what she was talking about.

We ate dinner (Burger King) and then went back to the hotel. I took a shower and a sleeping pill and passed out.

Okay, a couple of you commented about me saying we went to China. That is just an expression meaning we traveled a long way. I said that when we went to the Nazca Lines. Something about going to China and back. I did not go to China, I just meant it was a loooooong way.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

9/7 (Sunday)

We were awake before our 4 a.m. call. It was a lot warmer in our room last night after we closed one of our windows that we had left open the night before!
Last night we had KFC delivered to our room. My current convertor either blew a fuse or died. I was asking Kimberly, from Texas, where I could get another one. She showed me hers which she got at Radio Shack in Lima. It was a monster of a thing ($30) and weighed more than my little computer. She offered to let me keep it until we leave in Oct. I took her up on it because there was no way I would be able to charge my camera or computer. She said the reason she got that monster was because there are a lot of power surges in Peru and that can hurt your equipment. She´s leaving for the states tonight and won´t be back until May so I´ll leave it at the hotel for her.
Our driver, Vicente, called for us right " 4:30 and we were on our way in the pitch black and mist. Once we dodged the pot holes of Lima we were on decent roads for a good stretch of the way they even had four lanes.
Our first stop about 8:30 was at the Paracas Peninsula which is a National Reserve. We took a two hour boat ride first stopping to see El Candelabro, a huge hillside etching of a chandelier that has mysterious origins. The wind and surf have sculpted odd shapes and tunnels into the rock. Because of the warm winds and cool ocean no rain falls on Paracas. This area has one of the world´s largest collections of seabirds (about 200 species) including the Andean Condor, 2 types of sea lions, a rare otter and the endangered Humboldt penguin.
Hundreds of thousands of birds were roosting all over the rocky islands covering them with guano (also known as poo poo.) It has 20 times more nitrogen than cow poo and thus is highly coveted. Between 1850 and 1870 Peru had a guano rush. They dug nearly 20 million tons of the stuff off the islands lowering the height by as much as 30 meters!



We saw cormorants, boobies )not the blue footed ones pelicans, seagulls, penguins and Inca terns. the sky and rocks were thick with them. I told barbara not to open her mouth if she looked up. she didn´t open her mouth but still took a direct guano hit on top of the head. She resorted to wearing a plastic bag on her head.



By 10-30 we were out of there and continuing on our way to Nazca. By this time the sun had finally come out and we were cruising along until we had to stop and change a tire. We were on the Pan American Hwy between Lima and Argentina and it was filled with big rigs going over the mountains. It was one hairpin curve after another.



We passed through lots of desert land and small villages. the boss called at 1'00 and said we had a 1`30 ``fly time`` We hurried on. The driver was a nervous wreck and driving like a bat out of hell when it became apparent we weren´t going to make the 1'30 time. We arrived about 1'40 which pushed our fly time back to 2`10. We got in a 6 passenger plane with five other people. The man sat in front with the pilot, Barbara and I behind them and the wife and daughter behind us. The wind was blowing fairly hard so I expected it to be bumpy but it wasn´t. We followed a clockwise path beginning with the lines of the whale etched into the desert. Some of the line formations you can see are_ the dog, monkey, condor, spider, humming bird, astronaut and parrot among others. The pilot would tip the wing all the way to one side for the people on the left to see then come around and tip to the other side. Before we took off he pointed out the barf bags in the pocket in front of each seat. About half way through the flight I thought I smelled something. When we landed Barbara informed me that the girl behind me had used her bag!



We hadn't had anything to eat since before 8 a.m. so I was once again light headed and ready to faint. We went to a very nice restaurant in Nazca for lunch dinner.



We hit the road back to Lima at 5 p.m. Thank goodness there was still light when we were behind all the trucks crossing the mountain. I felt sorry for the driver because he was driving right into the sun and it was a bright one.



We finally made it back to Lima by 11 p.m. We were all exhausted especially the driver. Our journey took much longer than it took for me to fly from Orlando to Lima.

Saturday, September 06, 2008

9-6 (Saturday)

I slept great last night and didn't get up until almost 8:00. Barbara waited until this morning to take her shower and there was no hot water.

We decided to go to the Gold Museum today. We asked at the desk if we could walk. They assured us it was way too far. We took off walking anyway just to see the sights and how far we could get. After 3 hours (1:30 in the afternoon) we decided we'd better take a cab. We kept stopping cabs but couldn't agree on a price. We kept walking. Finally we met up with the cutest guy who was on his way to play volleyball. He said when the drivers see foreigners they jack up the prices. We alreay knew that. Anyway he bargained for us and finally found some poor sucker who agreed to take us. It was a loooong way even after we had walked the three hours.

The museum was interesting with lots of old knives, swords, helments, guns, saddles, mummies and Gold! We were both light headed and ready to faint so we ate a gross lunch around 3:30.

We bargained hard for a cab back to the hotel. We walked away when we couldn't come to terms and the driver finally came running after us. We came up on the price and he came down. When we got back to the hotel we paid him and walked away. He started yelling that we owed him one more sole. I know Barbara gave him the right amount because we counted it out together. Of well, outwitted again.

Tomorrow we have hired a private car to take us from her to China so we can fly over the Nazca Line. We leave here at 4:30 a.m. and won't get back until 11:00 p.m.
9-5 (Friday)

Anna picked me up at 11:30 and took me to the airport. We got there a litte before noon. The line to check in was fairly long but it only took 30 minutes from the time I got out of the car to get checked in, go through security and make it to the trams. I was surprised at how fasst it was.

We had a smooth flight to Miami but we didn't even get a glass of water to drink. They said the flight was too short. If it had been Thai Air they would have served a whole meal! I was next to two people who were overflowing their seats!

After we landed I walked about four gates down and found Barbara waiting for me. She was wearing her beautiful gold scarb that she got in Egypt. She said our departure gate had been changed. Before we walked to the new gate she filled me in on the drama that was unfolding in front of us. It seems that some woman who had been visiting her mother in Haiti was on her way to LA with her young daughter when another woman came up to her in the Miami airport and asked if she would take two young girls to gate D43 to meet someone. The woman did it but there was no one to meet the children. By the time I got there the feds had been there and there were police all over the place trying to find out who these kids were. They made the woman from Haiti and her daughter wait while they tried to figure it out. Of course she missed her plane to LA. They gave her a ticket for the next plane out. It looked like a guy from HRS showed up and I thought I heard him say he was going to declare the girls abandoned. The oldest girl looked to be around 8 and the youngest 5-6. They didn't seem upset. They weren't crying.

When we got on the plane to Lima it must have been over 100 degrees inside. The crew kept aplogizing and saying they couldn't start the engines until the tower said we could back up. I looked back at Barbara (2 seats behind me) and she was asleep with her fleece on! Once we got going everyone was freezing to death.

They charged $6 for wine or beer. I had cranberry juice (for free) with my TV dinner. As usual the roll felt like they had just taken it out of the freezer.

Lima is one hour behind Florida since we are on daylight saveings time. When we go off d.l.s.t. we will be on the same time.

We landed in Lima at 9:30 and had an easy time going through customs. We changed some money at the airport. We hired a "green" taxi to take us to our hotel, the Casa de Baraybar in the Miraflores area. The driver said he knew where it was but we could tell he didn't. It wasn't long before he was on the honker calling the office for directions. It was a long way ($16) but he got us there. It didn't look a thing like a hotel, there wasn't even a visibal sign out front. Even the driver seemed unsure (again.) He got out and walked up to the building to check the address. You had to ring a bell for them to buzz you into the building. When we got in the place was lovely, nice and new looking. The girl at the desk didn't speak a word of English so she called someone else on the phone. That person said there was a "really nice" American staying at the hotel who could help us. We no sooner hug up the phone than in walks Kimberly, the anthropologist from Austin, TX. She's digging around in Peru for several months at a time. She gave us tips on where to eat, what to see etc. She also told the girl we wanted extra blankets when we found out the rooms weren't heated! The girl brought our extrea blankets - two thin bedspreads! Thank goodness there were a couple of wool blanket in the room.

I took a vey hot shower and was able to get into bed by 1:30 (my time.)