11-18 (Saturday)
After breakfast we walked to the Tourist Office but it was closed. One the way we stopped at an indoor air conditioned massage place. At the Night Bazaar it has all been outside. Unfortunately this place was booked for the day.
We walked along the river until we came to one of the main streets. As we walked along a couple of local buses came by - we knew we needed either bus #1 or bus #6. #1 showed up and we hopped on. We went to Tesco Lotus. Tesco is a buzz word in Asia for big supermarkets/department stores. This place reminded both of us of Wal-Mart. They were selling everything from cars to groceries.
After we had looked around and bought a few thing we went for a massage in the same building. Joyce had a foot massage and I had a shoulder/back massage. The guy worked hard on all the knots I had especially on my left side. It hurt but was probably good for it.
On our way home we stopped off where we thought we had seen a really neat restaurant yesterday. It turned out just to be a beer garden.
We went to the train station and hired a tuk tuk to pick us up in the morning so we can get the train to Bangkok.
Saturday, November 18, 2006
11-17 (Friday)
After breakfast we walked to the local bus stop where we boarded bus #1 for the long distance bus terminal. Once we got there we had to wait about 45 minutes for our rattle trap unair -conditioned bus to pull out for Sukhothai, the ancient capital of Thailand which flourished between the 14 and 16th centuries. The name means the Dawn of Happiness. Artifacts show that the Thai Alphabet and language originated there around 1238. It covers 6,596 square kilometers and is located 327 kilometers north of Bangkok.
As many of the buses in Asia do, we tried to drum up business along the way stopping when and wherever anyone wanted to get on or off. it took about two hours for us to arrive at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Some girl met us when we got off the bus and wanted us to rent a bicycle to tour the park. This would have been fine if it were cool outside but it was too darn hot so we hired a tuk tuk to take us around. It reminded me a great deal of the Ankor Wat complex. We even went outside the park and drove a long way to the foot of some mountains where we got out and hiked up a hill to get to a 12.50 meter tall standing Buddha. The whole tour took three hours which we ended by visiting the museum.
We were sitting under a tree waiting for the bus to arrive at 3:30. Some girl came and sat down next to us. The next thing we knew she was up flagging down the bus for us. This time the bus was fairly nice and it was air conditioned! It was already almost full. I sat behind Joyce - both of us were next to guys on such a narrow seat that our butt cheeks hung off. Finally people began getting off and we got seats that we could fit on. The return trip also took about two hours. We caught a local bus to the railroad station then walked to one of our favorite restaurants for dinner. We were really glad that we took this trip.
After breakfast we walked to the local bus stop where we boarded bus #1 for the long distance bus terminal. Once we got there we had to wait about 45 minutes for our rattle trap unair -conditioned bus to pull out for Sukhothai, the ancient capital of Thailand which flourished between the 14 and 16th centuries. The name means the Dawn of Happiness. Artifacts show that the Thai Alphabet and language originated there around 1238. It covers 6,596 square kilometers and is located 327 kilometers north of Bangkok.
As many of the buses in Asia do, we tried to drum up business along the way stopping when and wherever anyone wanted to get on or off. it took about two hours for us to arrive at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Some girl met us when we got off the bus and wanted us to rent a bicycle to tour the park. This would have been fine if it were cool outside but it was too darn hot so we hired a tuk tuk to take us around. It reminded me a great deal of the Ankor Wat complex. We even went outside the park and drove a long way to the foot of some mountains where we got out and hiked up a hill to get to a 12.50 meter tall standing Buddha. The whole tour took three hours which we ended by visiting the museum.
We were sitting under a tree waiting for the bus to arrive at 3:30. Some girl came and sat down next to us. The next thing we knew she was up flagging down the bus for us. This time the bus was fairly nice and it was air conditioned! It was already almost full. I sat behind Joyce - both of us were next to guys on such a narrow seat that our butt cheeks hung off. Finally people began getting off and we got seats that we could fit on. The return trip also took about two hours. We caught a local bus to the railroad station then walked to one of our favorite restaurants for dinner. We were really glad that we took this trip.
11-16 (Thursday)
We got up early so we could catch a boat to Sukhothai but found out there are NO boats to Sukhothai! The only way is to take a bus which we will try to do tomorrow.
We went to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, a riverside temple, which is one of the city's major landmarks. Its corncob-shaped tower is easy to recognize. The temple is regarded as being the city's oldest historical site. The Buddha inside is said to be one of the most beautiful in all of Thailand.
We were able to get on a tram for a city tour. One of the things we saw that we had been looking for was a big department store. We also saw:Cha Kan Bun School which appeared to be a boy's military school, the clock tower, the railroad station (we already knew all about this!) the Ekathotsarot Bridge (we walked over it last night), some of the remaining town walls and moat, the Chao Phraya Chakri Monument - he was a Thai commander who fought against the Burmese in 2318 AD.
After the trolley tour we walked down to the department store to check it out and have lunch.
During the oppressive heat of the day we went back to the hotel to cool down. Late this afternoon we did email then split a pizza at the hotel.
Tonight we went out to get water. As we were walking by the restaurant where we met the undercover policeman the first day he saw us and come out to talk. I guess he must hang out there.
We got up early so we could catch a boat to Sukhothai but found out there are NO boats to Sukhothai! The only way is to take a bus which we will try to do tomorrow.
We went to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, a riverside temple, which is one of the city's major landmarks. Its corncob-shaped tower is easy to recognize. The temple is regarded as being the city's oldest historical site. The Buddha inside is said to be one of the most beautiful in all of Thailand.
We were able to get on a tram for a city tour. One of the things we saw that we had been looking for was a big department store. We also saw:Cha Kan Bun School which appeared to be a boy's military school, the clock tower, the railroad station (we already knew all about this!) the Ekathotsarot Bridge (we walked over it last night), some of the remaining town walls and moat, the Chao Phraya Chakri Monument - he was a Thai commander who fought against the Burmese in 2318 AD.
After the trolley tour we walked down to the department store to check it out and have lunch.
During the oppressive heat of the day we went back to the hotel to cool down. Late this afternoon we did email then split a pizza at the hotel.
Tonight we went out to get water. As we were walking by the restaurant where we met the undercover policeman the first day he saw us and come out to talk. I guess he must hang out there.
Thursday, November 16, 2006
11-15 (Wednesday)
We had the breakfast buffet at the hotel then went out to try to set up a tour to Sukhothai which was the ancient capital of Thailand around 1238. It is now a UNESCO designated World Heritage site, one of many that we have seen on this trip including the Plain of Jars and Luang Prabang. We found a tourist information center where we got several pamplets and were told to go "that way." "That way" in the heat was long and hard but after much walking and asking we finally got "there" only to find out that the boats we wanted to take didn't go to Sukhothai unless there were 10 passengers and that the trolley for the city tour was already booked and we couldn't get on until the next day. Bummer.
We walked back the way we had come and had lunch. It was so hot that we went back to the hotel to rest until it was cooler. What was I saying yesterday about it being cooler than Bali? NOT. That was yesterday, this is today.
We went back out tonight after it cooled down. We walked near the Nan River - the birds were so loud you could hardly hear anything else. I asked some woman about it. She said they have come back to those same spots (trees, buildings etc) for years and years.
We walked across the bridge and ate dinner at a restaurant that was right on the water. Afterwards we walked to the Riverside Hotel (a very fancy place) to use their toi-let. Finally it was back to the Night Bazaar for more looking and another massage.
These last couple of weeks we have laughed so long and so hard over the silliest things: our nightmares, a word or phrase etc.
We had the breakfast buffet at the hotel then went out to try to set up a tour to Sukhothai which was the ancient capital of Thailand around 1238. It is now a UNESCO designated World Heritage site, one of many that we have seen on this trip including the Plain of Jars and Luang Prabang. We found a tourist information center where we got several pamplets and were told to go "that way." "That way" in the heat was long and hard but after much walking and asking we finally got "there" only to find out that the boats we wanted to take didn't go to Sukhothai unless there were 10 passengers and that the trolley for the city tour was already booked and we couldn't get on until the next day. Bummer.
We walked back the way we had come and had lunch. It was so hot that we went back to the hotel to rest until it was cooler. What was I saying yesterday about it being cooler than Bali? NOT. That was yesterday, this is today.
We went back out tonight after it cooled down. We walked near the Nan River - the birds were so loud you could hardly hear anything else. I asked some woman about it. She said they have come back to those same spots (trees, buildings etc) for years and years.
We walked across the bridge and ate dinner at a restaurant that was right on the water. Afterwards we walked to the Riverside Hotel (a very fancy place) to use their toi-let. Finally it was back to the Night Bazaar for more looking and another massage.
These last couple of weeks we have laughed so long and so hard over the silliest things: our nightmares, a word or phrase etc.
11-14 (Tuesday)
We stumbled off the train with all our stuff in a complete fog. We may have been out of it but the city was already abuzz with activity. We turned down offers to take us to the hotel because the Internet said it was within walking distance of the station. That was true but not if you were pulling two broken down, worn out suitcases. We ended up taking a tuk tuk. We arrived before any of the hotel staff was awake. Thank goodness the doors were unlocked so we went in and made ourselves at home on the lobby furniture. It wasn't long before a man came through the lobby and saw us. He must have been a manager because he woke up one of the clerks and they began checking us in. Even thought it was only 5:30 in the morning he let us go to our room which was very nice. We crashed for several hours then got up and walked down the street to find some lunch. The place where we ate was very small but clean. There were two policemen eating there. One was in uniform and the other one was undercover. The undercover one said he had been to Orlando years ago for police training with the DEA. His English was good enough that we knew what he was saying. We walked around the town a bit. The sun wasn't shining so it was much cooler than Bali. We walked back to the train station and bought our return to Bangkok - again we have seats but it doesn't matter because we will be traveling during the day.
Tonight we went to eat at a new place we discovered this afternoon. As we approached the corner we heard a loud racket. We thought maybe it was locus but no . . . it turned out to be 100's of birds perched in trees, on power wires and on building tops on all four corners of the street. We tried to stay away from them and undercover for fear of bird flu. We made it to the restaurant and had a nice meal. We walked back towards the birds, past them and to the Night Bazaar. It didn't compare to Chaing Mai but we had fun walking along looking at things. Before we left there we got a foot massage. When we got back to the hotel we did laundry and fell in bed.
We stumbled off the train with all our stuff in a complete fog. We may have been out of it but the city was already abuzz with activity. We turned down offers to take us to the hotel because the Internet said it was within walking distance of the station. That was true but not if you were pulling two broken down, worn out suitcases. We ended up taking a tuk tuk. We arrived before any of the hotel staff was awake. Thank goodness the doors were unlocked so we went in and made ourselves at home on the lobby furniture. It wasn't long before a man came through the lobby and saw us. He must have been a manager because he woke up one of the clerks and they began checking us in. Even thought it was only 5:30 in the morning he let us go to our room which was very nice. We crashed for several hours then got up and walked down the street to find some lunch. The place where we ate was very small but clean. There were two policemen eating there. One was in uniform and the other one was undercover. The undercover one said he had been to Orlando years ago for police training with the DEA. His English was good enough that we knew what he was saying. We walked around the town a bit. The sun wasn't shining so it was much cooler than Bali. We walked back to the train station and bought our return to Bangkok - again we have seats but it doesn't matter because we will be traveling during the day.
Tonight we went to eat at a new place we discovered this afternoon. As we approached the corner we heard a loud racket. We thought maybe it was locus but no . . . it turned out to be 100's of birds perched in trees, on power wires and on building tops on all four corners of the street. We tried to stay away from them and undercover for fear of bird flu. We made it to the restaurant and had a nice meal. We walked back towards the birds, past them and to the Night Bazaar. It didn't compare to Chaing Mai but we had fun walking along looking at things. Before we left there we got a foot massage. When we got back to the hotel we did laundry and fell in bed.
11-13 (Monday)
Today we leave Bali. I took my stuff downstairs and ordered breakfast then went back to help Joyce. She was half way downstairs by then with a broken or messed up wheel on her big suitcase. We left at 7 a.m. for the airport. Our flight left at 9:15. We were checked in and through immigration by 8:00. That was really fast.
Bali has got to have one of the shortest runways anywhere. When you land the pilot is hitting the breaks with all his might and when you take off he pulls up before you can blink your eyes and you're out over the Indian Ocean saying, "Bye, bye Bali." The pilot told us on the left side of the plane to look at the volcano as we flew over northern Bali.
Even though it was almost 10:00 we got breakfast on the plane (Singapore Air) consisting of an omelet, fruit, potatoes, sausage, baked tomato, a roll and tea or coffee. We didn't get some damn snack box that we had to pay for like on an American carrier.
We arrived in Singapore close to noon. We did free internet while we were waiting for our flight to Bangkok.
We boarded that flight at 2:10 and this time had a fabulous lunch: chicken in wine sauce, noodles, salad, roll, chocolate cake and beer or wine (free of course!)
We had planned to go from the Bangkok airport directly to the train station. We were hoping to get on a night train to Phitsanulok north of Bangkok. After getting all our luggage - Joyce's with a wheel that didn't work and now mine with a broken handle we set out to find a taxi to the station. I went outside and was getting quotes around 900-1000 ($24-$28.) We knew we had only paid around $10 the last time we were through here. While I was out negotiating Joyce came out and found me and said, "We're on the wrong floor! Remember the last time we went downstairs to get our cab?" Sure enough that's where all the "public" metered taxis were. We hired one to take us to the station that a couple of "information" people told us to go to.
I was sitting in front with the driver. I felt really sorry for him because he appeared to have tourets. He could not hold his hands or head still. Sometimes BOTH of his hand would jump off the steering wheel. In Bangkok traffic that's not what you want happening. He wasn't making sounds that are associated with tourets but he couldn't keep his body still. I pretended not to notice.
He dropped us where we told him to but we knew right away it wasn't the right station. Joyce sat beside the tracks with our luggage while I went in to see about getting tickets. The guy told us there were NO 1st class tickets available and NO second class sleepers either. All the trains that we saw coming through that station looked awful. They looked like trains you would see in India. We knew we needed to get to the main train station so we hired another taxi to take us. Unfortunately we found out the same information at this station. We booked two seats (not a compartment) for the 10:10 p.m. train arriving in Phitsanulok at 4:30 a.m. Since we had to wait almost four hours for the train this was a much better station. There was a place where we could leave our luggage - which we did - there were lots of food and drink stands, a toi-let and good security. I got so tired and sleepy waiting all those hours. Finally we went and got our broken down luggage and headed for track #10, car 11, seats 1 and 2. We didn't see all the cars on the train but our car looked dilapidated. Somehow we got all our pieces onto the train but when I tried to pull my large suitcase down the aisle it was too big to go between the seats. One of the guys that worked on the train picked it up for me, carried it to the front of the car and put it on the overhead rack. He did the same with Joyce's big suitcase. Our seats reminded us of the slow boat in that they were uncomfortable and the space between the edge of the seat and the wall in front of us was only inches. The only good thing I can say about our car was that it was air conditioned.
Right before we chugged out of the station a bunch of college kids (they sounded like they were from the US) got on. We thought "oh, no" they're going to be partying all night. They actually settled down before long.
I was surprised that they never turned the light out all night in the car. It was a miserable night . . . the seats were tiny, they didn't recline but rather pitched you forward and part of our luggage was under our feet all night. I cat-napped but no real sleep. When we got ready to get off at 4:30 a.m. I looked behind us and told Joyce the college students must have gotten off during the night. She said, "Look on the floor." Sure enough there they were sacked out all over the floor in the middle of the aisles. I don't know how they could sleep on those hard floors.
Today we leave Bali. I took my stuff downstairs and ordered breakfast then went back to help Joyce. She was half way downstairs by then with a broken or messed up wheel on her big suitcase. We left at 7 a.m. for the airport. Our flight left at 9:15. We were checked in and through immigration by 8:00. That was really fast.
Bali has got to have one of the shortest runways anywhere. When you land the pilot is hitting the breaks with all his might and when you take off he pulls up before you can blink your eyes and you're out over the Indian Ocean saying, "Bye, bye Bali." The pilot told us on the left side of the plane to look at the volcano as we flew over northern Bali.
Even though it was almost 10:00 we got breakfast on the plane (Singapore Air) consisting of an omelet, fruit, potatoes, sausage, baked tomato, a roll and tea or coffee. We didn't get some damn snack box that we had to pay for like on an American carrier.
We arrived in Singapore close to noon. We did free internet while we were waiting for our flight to Bangkok.
We boarded that flight at 2:10 and this time had a fabulous lunch: chicken in wine sauce, noodles, salad, roll, chocolate cake and beer or wine (free of course!)
We had planned to go from the Bangkok airport directly to the train station. We were hoping to get on a night train to Phitsanulok north of Bangkok. After getting all our luggage - Joyce's with a wheel that didn't work and now mine with a broken handle we set out to find a taxi to the station. I went outside and was getting quotes around 900-1000 ($24-$28.) We knew we had only paid around $10 the last time we were through here. While I was out negotiating Joyce came out and found me and said, "We're on the wrong floor! Remember the last time we went downstairs to get our cab?" Sure enough that's where all the "public" metered taxis were. We hired one to take us to the station that a couple of "information" people told us to go to.
I was sitting in front with the driver. I felt really sorry for him because he appeared to have tourets. He could not hold his hands or head still. Sometimes BOTH of his hand would jump off the steering wheel. In Bangkok traffic that's not what you want happening. He wasn't making sounds that are associated with tourets but he couldn't keep his body still. I pretended not to notice.
He dropped us where we told him to but we knew right away it wasn't the right station. Joyce sat beside the tracks with our luggage while I went in to see about getting tickets. The guy told us there were NO 1st class tickets available and NO second class sleepers either. All the trains that we saw coming through that station looked awful. They looked like trains you would see in India. We knew we needed to get to the main train station so we hired another taxi to take us. Unfortunately we found out the same information at this station. We booked two seats (not a compartment) for the 10:10 p.m. train arriving in Phitsanulok at 4:30 a.m. Since we had to wait almost four hours for the train this was a much better station. There was a place where we could leave our luggage - which we did - there were lots of food and drink stands, a toi-let and good security. I got so tired and sleepy waiting all those hours. Finally we went and got our broken down luggage and headed for track #10, car 11, seats 1 and 2. We didn't see all the cars on the train but our car looked dilapidated. Somehow we got all our pieces onto the train but when I tried to pull my large suitcase down the aisle it was too big to go between the seats. One of the guys that worked on the train picked it up for me, carried it to the front of the car and put it on the overhead rack. He did the same with Joyce's big suitcase. Our seats reminded us of the slow boat in that they were uncomfortable and the space between the edge of the seat and the wall in front of us was only inches. The only good thing I can say about our car was that it was air conditioned.
Right before we chugged out of the station a bunch of college kids (they sounded like they were from the US) got on. We thought "oh, no" they're going to be partying all night. They actually settled down before long.
I was surprised that they never turned the light out all night in the car. It was a miserable night . . . the seats were tiny, they didn't recline but rather pitched you forward and part of our luggage was under our feet all night. I cat-napped but no real sleep. When we got ready to get off at 4:30 a.m. I looked behind us and told Joyce the college students must have gotten off during the night. She said, "Look on the floor." Sure enough there they were sacked out all over the floor in the middle of the aisles. I don't know how they could sleep on those hard floors.
Saturday, November 11, 2006
The words I’m NOT going to miss when I leave Bali:
Transport?
Manicure?
Braid your hair?
Where are you from?
Where are you going?
This last one, where are you going? has actually become amusing. At home no one cares where you’re going but here everyone from the bellboy to the waiter, to the man on the street wants to know where you’re going. This is the only island where everyone knows where you are at all times!!!
Transport?
Manicure?
Braid your hair?
Where are you from?
Where are you going?
This last one, where are you going? has actually become amusing. At home no one cares where you’re going but here everyone from the bellboy to the waiter, to the man on the street wants to know where you’re going. This is the only island where everyone knows where you are at all times!!!
11-10 (Friday)
After breakfast we went to the internet to research a place, Isaan, in northern Thailand where we thought we might go next. After researching we decided it wasn’t the place for us. We came up with a new place, Phitsanulok which is between Bangkok and Chaing Mai. Next we had to decide how we were getting there. We were going to fly to Singapore and then hop a train to Bangkok and on to Phitsanulok. This sounded easy but it wasn’t. You have to buy tickets in Singapore, again in KL and again when you get to Thailand. If it weren’t for all our luggage, especially mine, I think we would have attempted it. It’s more complicated than I described because of the money and visas so . . . we’re flying from Densapar to Singapore and on to Bangkok on Monday. We’re going to try to spend one night in Bangkok because of the flight and train schedules, leave our bags at the hotel and go on to Phitsanulok the next day.
After hours on the net we headed out to have lunch and get some more money!
Tonight we went back to the net to make all our reservations. Joyce went back to the room and I stayed a couple hours trying to catch up on my blog. Information about our reservations came back from Wired Destinations and Singapore Air – I accidentally deleted both before reading them!! We’ll just have to try to figure something out tomorrow.
After breakfast we went to the internet to research a place, Isaan, in northern Thailand where we thought we might go next. After researching we decided it wasn’t the place for us. We came up with a new place, Phitsanulok which is between Bangkok and Chaing Mai. Next we had to decide how we were getting there. We were going to fly to Singapore and then hop a train to Bangkok and on to Phitsanulok. This sounded easy but it wasn’t. You have to buy tickets in Singapore, again in KL and again when you get to Thailand. If it weren’t for all our luggage, especially mine, I think we would have attempted it. It’s more complicated than I described because of the money and visas so . . . we’re flying from Densapar to Singapore and on to Bangkok on Monday. We’re going to try to spend one night in Bangkok because of the flight and train schedules, leave our bags at the hotel and go on to Phitsanulok the next day.
After hours on the net we headed out to have lunch and get some more money!
Tonight we went back to the net to make all our reservations. Joyce went back to the room and I stayed a couple hours trying to catch up on my blog. Information about our reservations came back from Wired Destinations and Singapore Air – I accidentally deleted both before reading them!! We’ll just have to try to figure something out tomorrow.
11-9 (Thursday)
As soon as I got dressed this morning I went to reception and told them we needed another room. They said we could move next door after breakfast. When we were ready to move we were told the room wouldn’t be ready until noon. We asked for a different one. They gave us a key and we went upstairs to see if the A/C was going to work. It was the biggest room we had been in so far (and we’d been in a lot in this hotel) and it was the nicest! Since the air worked we went back downstairs and I asked the guy if we could have it at the very lowest price since we were such good customers. He agreed to the low price. The room usually goes for 400,000 and we got it for 225,000. We ended up with the best room in the joint for the lowest price.
We headed out to the internet to try to research where to go next. We kept looking at sites in southern Thailand but they are mostly beaches and that’s not what we want. We didn’t find anything that suited us.
We went off to Central Mall to have lunch and a look around. We didn’t eat until 3:00 which made it after 6:00 when we got back to the hotel.
My shoulder was killing me tonight so I went downstairs and got a massage just on my back, neck and shoulders.
As soon as I got dressed this morning I went to reception and told them we needed another room. They said we could move next door after breakfast. When we were ready to move we were told the room wouldn’t be ready until noon. We asked for a different one. They gave us a key and we went upstairs to see if the A/C was going to work. It was the biggest room we had been in so far (and we’d been in a lot in this hotel) and it was the nicest! Since the air worked we went back downstairs and I asked the guy if we could have it at the very lowest price since we were such good customers. He agreed to the low price. The room usually goes for 400,000 and we got it for 225,000. We ended up with the best room in the joint for the lowest price.
We headed out to the internet to try to research where to go next. We kept looking at sites in southern Thailand but they are mostly beaches and that’s not what we want. We didn’t find anything that suited us.
We went off to Central Mall to have lunch and a look around. We didn’t eat until 3:00 which made it after 6:00 when we got back to the hotel.
My shoulder was killing me tonight so I went downstairs and got a massage just on my back, neck and shoulders.
Friday, November 10, 2006
11-8 (Wednesday)
We were awakened by a puppy yapping, a mother dog barking, a rooster and what sounded like a deer getting ready to make an announcement on a loudspeaker! Welcome to the zoo hotel.
We couldn’t see it last night but the courtyard around our hotel was beautiful and went right down to the beach. We walked down for a little look-see.
After having breakfast at the hotel (tea and toast) Luis and the driver were ready to take us sightseeing. One of the first places we went was the Paradise Bar (on a cliff) for a fabulous look down on the sea, other islands and the boats. It was here that we met Kybi, probably the most interesting person we have met on the trip. He is a 30 year old from Slovakia who had ridden his BICYCLE (peddled) from Europe to Indonesia. We were all (guides included) so fascinated with is stories that we just sat and listened to him for about an hour.
When he was riding through Tibet he was attacked by a pack of dogs. He was off his bike defending himself with a stick when on of them slipped behind him and bit him in the leg. He had rabies shots before leaving on the trip but if he were to get bitten he had to take another shot within so many days or it would be curtains. He rode a full day until he found a hospital and tried to convince them to give him a shot. They threw him out. He emailed his doctor back home who said he had to get an injection. He checked into a hotel with a high fever. The hotel had NO heat! He emailed his embassy in Beijing telling them it was an emergency and to please write a letter for him in Chinese to show the hospital so he could get the injection. Everyday he pulled himself out of the bed and went to check his email. It took 5 days for the embassy to respond! He took the letter to the hospital and got the shot. Within 2-3 days he began to feel better and off he went again on his adventure. He bicycled through Afghanistan which he loved. He said they are the greatest people he has met. I don’t know how he was able to peddle over those mountains in Tibet and Afghanistan. Sounds like you, Dave! He had lots of interesting stories about that. We had to tear ourselves away from his stories. He has a web site for his pictures if anyone wants to look: http://foto.kybi.sk He says there are only 3-4 that he thinks are really good.
He has a tent and a gas burner with him. He is pulling a small “wagon” behind the bike. On each side are two “saddle bags” with clothes etc. He had a large case with all his camera equipment. When in China he had it in the basket on the front of his bike. Two guys on a motorcycle came by and grabbed it. He lost about $4,000 worth of equipment. He wrote his dad who helped him get new equipment. He was carrying a digital camera and film camera plus 2 hard drives to download his pictures onto. Before he started his journey he was a computer programmer. He hopes to find work in that field when he get to Austrealia. He only has $100 to his name. He started out with $4,000. which has lasted a hear and a half (that doesn’t include the lost camera equipment.)
After tearing ourselves away from Kybi we went to visit the local market. Nothing new there.
Then we went to a cave that is known as mirror cave. We walked a long way to get to the entrance. Joyce decided she didn’t want to go in so she went back to the car. The guide and I entered. It was a huge cave – we saw a giant honey “nest” on the side. We had to squat down and crawl through certain areas. We each had a flashlight. There were bats hanging all over –in one area they were making a noise that scared the liver out of me. When the guide and I got back to the car it was time to go to the airport for our flight back to Bali. I gave the guide a tip. He had a strange look on his face which I took to mean that he wasn’t expecting it and was pleased. I thought I gave him a dollar which would have pleased him but I later realized I had only given him 11 cents!!! No wonder he had such a look on his face! A dollar is 10,000 and 11 cents is 1,000. I have been feeling bad and laughing about it ever since. Trying to keep all the different money we use straight is a real trick.
We checked in at the airport then decided to go back outside and have a cold drink. We were sitting out there when I decided I was hungry. Our food was in one of the bags we had already checked. I went right in without putting my things on the x-ray belt again. I walked right past the check-in counter, out the door and to the luggage wagon where all the bags were stacked. Our bags were on top so I climbed right up, unzipped my bag and pulled the food bag out! I took it back outside and we chowed down. So much for security. Can you imagine doing that in the states?
Our plane finally arrived and everyone crowded around the exit door waiting for them to let us walk out and get on. Joyce and I didn’t get up because we had assigned seats and didn’t want to be in the crowd. It was only a small plane which held maybe 50 but there weren’t that many getting on. As we were sitting there one of the airport workers came up to us – took the tickets and boarding pass out of Joyce’s hand, tore off part of the boarding pass and handed everything back to her. We looked around and saw that we were the only two not on the plane and they were waiting just for the two of us! We prissed out and got on. Bali here we come . . .
We checked back into the same hotel we had just left. I asked the guy if we could have the room for $25 instead of $28 since we were such good customers. He said, “yes” if we would take a room with a shower and no tub. PERFECT! We hated the old tub anyway. You needed a ladder to get in and out of it plus we only used the shower. It was a little smaller than the other room and didn’t have a mini bar but we thought we could manage.
We went out to eat and then did Internet. We found that things are really bad in Kalimantan at the Orangutan Center. The orangutans have been burned and when they tried to escape the fires many were killed by the local people. It is just too sad. We couldn’t stand to see them in that condition so once again we will change our plans. Besides Myanmar that’s the one thing I really wanted to do over here but like I said, I couldn’t stand to see them if they have been hurt plus as of Monday the smoke was still so thick people 100’s of miles away had to drive with their headlights on in the middle of the day. We don’t want to breathe smoke and have it in our eyes and hair for over a week.
We got back to our room which felt cool but after we did our laundry and got ready for bed we realized the A/C wasn’t cooling properly. I guess tomorrow we’ll be changing rooms again!!
We were awakened by a puppy yapping, a mother dog barking, a rooster and what sounded like a deer getting ready to make an announcement on a loudspeaker! Welcome to the zoo hotel.
We couldn’t see it last night but the courtyard around our hotel was beautiful and went right down to the beach. We walked down for a little look-see.
After having breakfast at the hotel (tea and toast) Luis and the driver were ready to take us sightseeing. One of the first places we went was the Paradise Bar (on a cliff) for a fabulous look down on the sea, other islands and the boats. It was here that we met Kybi, probably the most interesting person we have met on the trip. He is a 30 year old from Slovakia who had ridden his BICYCLE (peddled) from Europe to Indonesia. We were all (guides included) so fascinated with is stories that we just sat and listened to him for about an hour.
When he was riding through Tibet he was attacked by a pack of dogs. He was off his bike defending himself with a stick when on of them slipped behind him and bit him in the leg. He had rabies shots before leaving on the trip but if he were to get bitten he had to take another shot within so many days or it would be curtains. He rode a full day until he found a hospital and tried to convince them to give him a shot. They threw him out. He emailed his doctor back home who said he had to get an injection. He checked into a hotel with a high fever. The hotel had NO heat! He emailed his embassy in Beijing telling them it was an emergency and to please write a letter for him in Chinese to show the hospital so he could get the injection. Everyday he pulled himself out of the bed and went to check his email. It took 5 days for the embassy to respond! He took the letter to the hospital and got the shot. Within 2-3 days he began to feel better and off he went again on his adventure. He bicycled through Afghanistan which he loved. He said they are the greatest people he has met. I don’t know how he was able to peddle over those mountains in Tibet and Afghanistan. Sounds like you, Dave! He had lots of interesting stories about that. We had to tear ourselves away from his stories. He has a web site for his pictures if anyone wants to look: http://foto.kybi.sk He says there are only 3-4 that he thinks are really good.
He has a tent and a gas burner with him. He is pulling a small “wagon” behind the bike. On each side are two “saddle bags” with clothes etc. He had a large case with all his camera equipment. When in China he had it in the basket on the front of his bike. Two guys on a motorcycle came by and grabbed it. He lost about $4,000 worth of equipment. He wrote his dad who helped him get new equipment. He was carrying a digital camera and film camera plus 2 hard drives to download his pictures onto. Before he started his journey he was a computer programmer. He hopes to find work in that field when he get to Austrealia. He only has $100 to his name. He started out with $4,000. which has lasted a hear and a half (that doesn’t include the lost camera equipment.)
After tearing ourselves away from Kybi we went to visit the local market. Nothing new there.
Then we went to a cave that is known as mirror cave. We walked a long way to get to the entrance. Joyce decided she didn’t want to go in so she went back to the car. The guide and I entered. It was a huge cave – we saw a giant honey “nest” on the side. We had to squat down and crawl through certain areas. We each had a flashlight. There were bats hanging all over –in one area they were making a noise that scared the liver out of me. When the guide and I got back to the car it was time to go to the airport for our flight back to Bali. I gave the guide a tip. He had a strange look on his face which I took to mean that he wasn’t expecting it and was pleased. I thought I gave him a dollar which would have pleased him but I later realized I had only given him 11 cents!!! No wonder he had such a look on his face! A dollar is 10,000 and 11 cents is 1,000. I have been feeling bad and laughing about it ever since. Trying to keep all the different money we use straight is a real trick.
We checked in at the airport then decided to go back outside and have a cold drink. We were sitting out there when I decided I was hungry. Our food was in one of the bags we had already checked. I went right in without putting my things on the x-ray belt again. I walked right past the check-in counter, out the door and to the luggage wagon where all the bags were stacked. Our bags were on top so I climbed right up, unzipped my bag and pulled the food bag out! I took it back outside and we chowed down. So much for security. Can you imagine doing that in the states?
Our plane finally arrived and everyone crowded around the exit door waiting for them to let us walk out and get on. Joyce and I didn’t get up because we had assigned seats and didn’t want to be in the crowd. It was only a small plane which held maybe 50 but there weren’t that many getting on. As we were sitting there one of the airport workers came up to us – took the tickets and boarding pass out of Joyce’s hand, tore off part of the boarding pass and handed everything back to her. We looked around and saw that we were the only two not on the plane and they were waiting just for the two of us! We prissed out and got on. Bali here we come . . .
We checked back into the same hotel we had just left. I asked the guy if we could have the room for $25 instead of $28 since we were such good customers. He said, “yes” if we would take a room with a shower and no tub. PERFECT! We hated the old tub anyway. You needed a ladder to get in and out of it plus we only used the shower. It was a little smaller than the other room and didn’t have a mini bar but we thought we could manage.
We went out to eat and then did Internet. We found that things are really bad in Kalimantan at the Orangutan Center. The orangutans have been burned and when they tried to escape the fires many were killed by the local people. It is just too sad. We couldn’t stand to see them in that condition so once again we will change our plans. Besides Myanmar that’s the one thing I really wanted to do over here but like I said, I couldn’t stand to see them if they have been hurt plus as of Monday the smoke was still so thick people 100’s of miles away had to drive with their headlights on in the middle of the day. We don’t want to breathe smoke and have it in our eyes and hair for over a week.
We got back to our room which felt cool but after we did our laundry and got ready for bed we realized the A/C wasn’t cooling properly. I guess tomorrow we’ll be changing rooms again!!
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
11-7 (Tuesday)
We had been sleeping in but this morning were up at 6 a.m. for hair washing and final packing before leaving overnight to see the Komodo Dragons. We stored four of our suitcases at the hotel since wed be staying there two more nights when we got back. We planned to just take our “Chinese” bags stuffed full of things.
We hauled the biggest and heaviest bag (mine) downstairs on our way to breakfast. I had been having toast, fruit and tea every morning. This morning they were out of bread so I had to have fried rice. I didn’t eat that much of it because it wasn’t appealing for breakfast.
The driver arrived to take us to the airport. He was a really nice guy and told us that George Bush was going to be coming to Jakarta on the 20th. When you travel you have no idea of what is going on in the world. We think he must be on his way to Vietnam for a APEC conference they are hosting.
When we were almost at the airport I got so nauseated I thought I was going to have to ask the driver to pull over. Even though I drank a lot of water I think it was the malaria pill on an almost empty stomach that made me sick I left Joyce with my bags and ran in the bathroom. I wet a cloth and put it on my face and neck. I was able to hold everything down. Isn’t this interesting? After we went through security I bought a package of Ritz Crackers and drank a Sprite. I felt better almost instantly so I’m sure it was the pill.
Our plane was scheduled to leave at 10:15 but since everyone was there we took off early. Why wait around?
The islands here are very close together. It was interesting to see the contrast. Some were lush and green while others looked brown and parched. Some had volcanoes and other appeared flat.
Our guide, Luis, picked us up at the airport in Komodo. The driver took us directly to the harbor where we boarded a private “wooden” boat for our 2 ½ hour ride to Rinca Island. It was such a smooth, cool and relaxing ride that we kept falling asleep. The only thing that could have made it better was if they had had hammocks for us.
We had our guide, the captain, and a crew of two. The crew cooked lunch for us: fish heads and rice (yummy), noodles, cucumbers, green cooked leaves and pineapple for dessert. When we got off the boat there were three sleeping dragons beside the walkway. We walked to the Rangers Station where we had to register. I looked back through many of the pages and only saw one other person from the US. The Rangers told us the order of countries that send the most visitors: 1st Dutch, Germans, French and Brits.
The guides work 10 days on the island and 10 days back home. The only thing they are armed with is a long wooden stick with a V at the end. If attacked they poke the dragon in the face with it and he goes away. We elected to take the long (2 hour) trek. Before leaving we saw several dragons under the cook hut. The ranger said the smell of food draws them but they are NOT fed by the workers. One was a huge male who was sticking his long snake like tongue in and out. He was next to a smaller female. There were several young ones running about.
Along the hike we saw many more. As in Africa it was easy for the ranger to see them but hard for us. They blend right into the rocks and grass. We saw nests that the females use to bury their eggs. July and August are mating season so that’s when most of the tourists come. The males are constantly fighting with each other. They stand up on their hind legs to fight. The female lays around 30 eggs then hangs around her nest for the next 8 months. When they begin to hatch they crawl up in the trees for protection from other animals and their mothers. They hang out in trees (coming to the ground at times) until they are a couple of years old.
On the trek we saw something like a guinea hen, monkeys and deer. We heard a VERY loud, strange noise. It sounded like a loudspeaker. We were expecting an announcement like, “Run for your lives.” But it turned out to be the sound of a deer. It was so loud and strange. We also saw water buffalo (all males) down in what little water they could find. The females come down to drink and then leave because of the dragons. There was one large male dragon under the tree near the buffalo watering hole.
We walked through several river beds that didn’t have a drop of water. Everyone over here is talking about how hot it is and how the rainy season should have started in September but so far there is NO rain. You can certainly see the effects of global warming here. The farmers can’t plant because the ground is dry as a bone. The animals can’t drink because there is no water.
Even though we walked through mostly shady areas it was so hot I finished a large bottle of drinking water. My face was beat red. We actually ended up walking an hour and a half. Before going back to the boat we sat down to rest for a minute then decided to walk back to the cook hut for a final look at the dragons. The other rangers were playing ball when we heard them call out and saw that they were all looking at something on the ground. We went over to investigate. It was a snake, a viper, the most deadly snake in Indonesia. Its coloring was so good that I couldn’t see it even though it was right in front of me. Our ranger had to touch it with his dragon stick before I could see it. When we got back to the boat the same three dragons were still there. The welcoming and good-bye committee!
Luis, our guide and I sat up on the front of the boat and talked for over an hour. All of a sudden I was doubled over with stomach problems. Somehow I made it to the back of the boat and to the toi-let.
I was back talking to Joyce when the crew arrived with dinner. It was the exact same menu that we had for lunch. Thank goodness Luis knew I had been sick so I begged out of eating ANY dinner.
We arrived back in Labuanbajo around 8:30. We went directly to the hotel. We kept telling Luis we had to have two beds in the room. Well . . . there were three! We chose the two cleanest to sleep on. There was no top sheet, just something that was supposed to be a blanket but looked like a large towel. We decided to sleep in our silk sleeping bags. There was an A/C in the room that only began cooling by morning when it was time to get up. The bathroom . . . well . . . it was similar to the Honey Hotel in Myanmar only worse. It had a hand held shower head on the wall and a western toi-let but it smelled terrible. We had to keep the door closed. I think the drain was backing up.
After washing with baby wipes we were ready for a good sleep. Then we heard a puppy yapping. It went on so long I know its throat was sore. I went to find out where it was. It was a couple doors down from our room. The mother dog was nursing about 6 puppies and one was barricaded off from the rest by some boxes. I went and got one of the hotel workers. His solution was to put all the puppies behind the barricade. I thought that would at least keep the one from yapping but NO! The poor thing was probably hungry. I gave up, put in my ear plugs and went to bed.
We had been sleeping in but this morning were up at 6 a.m. for hair washing and final packing before leaving overnight to see the Komodo Dragons. We stored four of our suitcases at the hotel since wed be staying there two more nights when we got back. We planned to just take our “Chinese” bags stuffed full of things.
We hauled the biggest and heaviest bag (mine) downstairs on our way to breakfast. I had been having toast, fruit and tea every morning. This morning they were out of bread so I had to have fried rice. I didn’t eat that much of it because it wasn’t appealing for breakfast.
The driver arrived to take us to the airport. He was a really nice guy and told us that George Bush was going to be coming to Jakarta on the 20th. When you travel you have no idea of what is going on in the world. We think he must be on his way to Vietnam for a APEC conference they are hosting.
When we were almost at the airport I got so nauseated I thought I was going to have to ask the driver to pull over. Even though I drank a lot of water I think it was the malaria pill on an almost empty stomach that made me sick I left Joyce with my bags and ran in the bathroom. I wet a cloth and put it on my face and neck. I was able to hold everything down. Isn’t this interesting? After we went through security I bought a package of Ritz Crackers and drank a Sprite. I felt better almost instantly so I’m sure it was the pill.
Our plane was scheduled to leave at 10:15 but since everyone was there we took off early. Why wait around?
The islands here are very close together. It was interesting to see the contrast. Some were lush and green while others looked brown and parched. Some had volcanoes and other appeared flat.
Our guide, Luis, picked us up at the airport in Komodo. The driver took us directly to the harbor where we boarded a private “wooden” boat for our 2 ½ hour ride to Rinca Island. It was such a smooth, cool and relaxing ride that we kept falling asleep. The only thing that could have made it better was if they had had hammocks for us.
We had our guide, the captain, and a crew of two. The crew cooked lunch for us: fish heads and rice (yummy), noodles, cucumbers, green cooked leaves and pineapple for dessert. When we got off the boat there were three sleeping dragons beside the walkway. We walked to the Rangers Station where we had to register. I looked back through many of the pages and only saw one other person from the US. The Rangers told us the order of countries that send the most visitors: 1st Dutch, Germans, French and Brits.
The guides work 10 days on the island and 10 days back home. The only thing they are armed with is a long wooden stick with a V at the end. If attacked they poke the dragon in the face with it and he goes away. We elected to take the long (2 hour) trek. Before leaving we saw several dragons under the cook hut. The ranger said the smell of food draws them but they are NOT fed by the workers. One was a huge male who was sticking his long snake like tongue in and out. He was next to a smaller female. There were several young ones running about.
Along the hike we saw many more. As in Africa it was easy for the ranger to see them but hard for us. They blend right into the rocks and grass. We saw nests that the females use to bury their eggs. July and August are mating season so that’s when most of the tourists come. The males are constantly fighting with each other. They stand up on their hind legs to fight. The female lays around 30 eggs then hangs around her nest for the next 8 months. When they begin to hatch they crawl up in the trees for protection from other animals and their mothers. They hang out in trees (coming to the ground at times) until they are a couple of years old.
On the trek we saw something like a guinea hen, monkeys and deer. We heard a VERY loud, strange noise. It sounded like a loudspeaker. We were expecting an announcement like, “Run for your lives.” But it turned out to be the sound of a deer. It was so loud and strange. We also saw water buffalo (all males) down in what little water they could find. The females come down to drink and then leave because of the dragons. There was one large male dragon under the tree near the buffalo watering hole.
We walked through several river beds that didn’t have a drop of water. Everyone over here is talking about how hot it is and how the rainy season should have started in September but so far there is NO rain. You can certainly see the effects of global warming here. The farmers can’t plant because the ground is dry as a bone. The animals can’t drink because there is no water.
Even though we walked through mostly shady areas it was so hot I finished a large bottle of drinking water. My face was beat red. We actually ended up walking an hour and a half. Before going back to the boat we sat down to rest for a minute then decided to walk back to the cook hut for a final look at the dragons. The other rangers were playing ball when we heard them call out and saw that they were all looking at something on the ground. We went over to investigate. It was a snake, a viper, the most deadly snake in Indonesia. Its coloring was so good that I couldn’t see it even though it was right in front of me. Our ranger had to touch it with his dragon stick before I could see it. When we got back to the boat the same three dragons were still there. The welcoming and good-bye committee!
Luis, our guide and I sat up on the front of the boat and talked for over an hour. All of a sudden I was doubled over with stomach problems. Somehow I made it to the back of the boat and to the toi-let.
I was back talking to Joyce when the crew arrived with dinner. It was the exact same menu that we had for lunch. Thank goodness Luis knew I had been sick so I begged out of eating ANY dinner.
We arrived back in Labuanbajo around 8:30. We went directly to the hotel. We kept telling Luis we had to have two beds in the room. Well . . . there were three! We chose the two cleanest to sleep on. There was no top sheet, just something that was supposed to be a blanket but looked like a large towel. We decided to sleep in our silk sleeping bags. There was an A/C in the room that only began cooling by morning when it was time to get up. The bathroom . . . well . . . it was similar to the Honey Hotel in Myanmar only worse. It had a hand held shower head on the wall and a western toi-let but it smelled terrible. We had to keep the door closed. I think the drain was backing up.
After washing with baby wipes we were ready for a good sleep. Then we heard a puppy yapping. It went on so long I know its throat was sore. I went to find out where it was. It was a couple doors down from our room. The mother dog was nursing about 6 puppies and one was barricaded off from the rest by some boxes. I went and got one of the hotel workers. His solution was to put all the puppies behind the barricade. I thought that would at least keep the one from yapping but NO! The poor thing was probably hungry. I gave up, put in my ear plugs and went to bed.
11-6 (Monday)
We set off this morning to get Joyce some money. She has Visa Traveler’s Check’s from AAA and there is only one bank (that she has found) that will cash them. I went to buy a pair of flip flops while she was getting her money.
We walked down to one of the fancy hotels and found the Garuda Airline Office. We talked to them about flying to Benjarmasin. It seems we will be able to do it. After having lunch we stopped in at a travel agency to continue our inquiries about getting to Kalimantan. We felt like we got good information from both places and that when we get back from Komodo we’ll be ready to pay for our trip all the way to Bangkok on the 19th.
It is sooooooo hot in Bali. My skin feels like it is cooking We went back to the hotel to cool down and rest before going to Tanah Lot to see the sun set.
Everyone here is tattooed. Joyce and I decided to get matching hearts on our butts with each other’s names! Cute huh?
Besides us there was only one other girl in the van to Tanah Lot. She (35 years old) was so interesting. She grew up in East Germany and was 16 when the wall came down so she could remember what it was like before “reunification.” She lived and worked for hotels in the Middle East for six years before opening her own restaurant in her home town. She is getting itchy feet again and is thinking about moving to either China or Russia. She thinks they are two up and coming places. She doesn’t like to stay in a place more than two years. She was traveling by herself.
Although I had been to Tanah Lot before it was still a sight that took my breath away. It is a temple on top of an outcropping of land that stands alone and becomes a tiny island at high tide.
When we got home we went to eat at Poppies Restaurant.
We packed up for our trip tomorrow.
We set off this morning to get Joyce some money. She has Visa Traveler’s Check’s from AAA and there is only one bank (that she has found) that will cash them. I went to buy a pair of flip flops while she was getting her money.
We walked down to one of the fancy hotels and found the Garuda Airline Office. We talked to them about flying to Benjarmasin. It seems we will be able to do it. After having lunch we stopped in at a travel agency to continue our inquiries about getting to Kalimantan. We felt like we got good information from both places and that when we get back from Komodo we’ll be ready to pay for our trip all the way to Bangkok on the 19th.
It is sooooooo hot in Bali. My skin feels like it is cooking We went back to the hotel to cool down and rest before going to Tanah Lot to see the sun set.
Everyone here is tattooed. Joyce and I decided to get matching hearts on our butts with each other’s names! Cute huh?
Besides us there was only one other girl in the van to Tanah Lot. She (35 years old) was so interesting. She grew up in East Germany and was 16 when the wall came down so she could remember what it was like before “reunification.” She lived and worked for hotels in the Middle East for six years before opening her own restaurant in her home town. She is getting itchy feet again and is thinking about moving to either China or Russia. She thinks they are two up and coming places. She doesn’t like to stay in a place more than two years. She was traveling by herself.
Although I had been to Tanah Lot before it was still a sight that took my breath away. It is a temple on top of an outcropping of land that stands alone and becomes a tiny island at high tide.
When we got home we went to eat at Poppies Restaurant.
We packed up for our trip tomorrow.
Sunday, November 05, 2006
11-5 (Sunday) Bali
We froze last night! We slept in this morning until 8:00 because we didn’t want to get out from under the covers. We had a long discussion about where to go next before we have to return to Bangkok. We seethe day aside to make travel arrangements. We fist bought a bus ticket to go to Tanah Lot tomorrow to see the sunset. We went to another agency and bought a ticket for 2 days and one night (on a boat)to go to the Komoda Islands to see the dragons. We leave Tuesday.
We found an international phone where you can make collect calls. Joyce had prepaid a LOT of money on her card so she wouldn’t have to worry about paying while she was out of the country. When we got ready to pay for our ticket to Bali they told her the card was reject6ed. She tried it at the hotel and it was the same thing. We decided the strip must have gotten messed up. She called them today only to find out that they had “flagged” her card deciding “they” didn’t want her to use it in Indonesia or Vietnam! I would have been livid. Wheat gives them the right to decide where she can spend her money? I used the phone to call my insurance co. They have a toll free # but the international calls have to be collect. I have been trying to find out what they are going to do about my car since September. I emailed them but they wrote back and said I need to call! Why do they invite you to email if they can’t answer? Go figure.
Tonight we went to dinner right on the beach – Jimaron Bay Beach. Lovely!
We still haven’t decided where we are going besides Komoto. Does anyone have an idea for us? HELP. We don’t want to miss anything while we are here. We would like to go to Kalimantan but we don’t know if we will be able to get there because of the fires. We thought about Puket but heard it is real expensive. We thought of Borobudur also but that isn’t looking possible. Okay, Brad, Dennis, Larry, Steve and you hard core travelers . . . put your thinking caps on.
We froze last night! We slept in this morning until 8:00 because we didn’t want to get out from under the covers. We had a long discussion about where to go next before we have to return to Bangkok. We seethe day aside to make travel arrangements. We fist bought a bus ticket to go to Tanah Lot tomorrow to see the sunset. We went to another agency and bought a ticket for 2 days and one night (on a boat)to go to the Komoda Islands to see the dragons. We leave Tuesday.
We found an international phone where you can make collect calls. Joyce had prepaid a LOT of money on her card so she wouldn’t have to worry about paying while she was out of the country. When we got ready to pay for our ticket to Bali they told her the card was reject6ed. She tried it at the hotel and it was the same thing. We decided the strip must have gotten messed up. She called them today only to find out that they had “flagged” her card deciding “they” didn’t want her to use it in Indonesia or Vietnam! I would have been livid. Wheat gives them the right to decide where she can spend her money? I used the phone to call my insurance co. They have a toll free # but the international calls have to be collect. I have been trying to find out what they are going to do about my car since September. I emailed them but they wrote back and said I need to call! Why do they invite you to email if they can’t answer? Go figure.
Tonight we went to dinner right on the beach – Jimaron Bay Beach. Lovely!
We still haven’t decided where we are going besides Komoto. Does anyone have an idea for us? HELP. We don’t want to miss anything while we are here. We would like to go to Kalimantan but we don’t know if we will be able to get there because of the fires. We thought about Puket but heard it is real expensive. We thought of Borobudur also but that isn’t looking possible. Okay, Brad, Dennis, Larry, Steve and you hard core travelers . . . put your thinking caps on.
11-3 (Friday) Bali
Last night we booked a room at the airport that was awful so this morning we walked around hotel shopping. We found a great hotel that we both loved. We got them to discount it to $30 which was a lot more than we wanted to pay but after last night ($2 more) we didn’t care. We had to go get money. The old Matahari center where we used to shop in the past is gone so we had to find another place.
We went to the hotel where we stayed four years ago – where we were during the bombing and talked to a woman who remembered us. I gave her pictures I had taken of her and her family at that time. She was thrilled.
We talked to several travel agencies about a trip to Kalimantan and one to Komoto.
We took a bus to Ubud. We just happened upon the restaurant of a friend. When we were here before, our friend, Dennis, took us to Ubud to meet a friend of his. This was the restaurant. I had pictures to give out. The daughter was so happy we had come by.
Last night we booked a room at the airport that was awful so this morning we walked around hotel shopping. We found a great hotel that we both loved. We got them to discount it to $30 which was a lot more than we wanted to pay but after last night ($2 more) we didn’t care. We had to go get money. The old Matahari center where we used to shop in the past is gone so we had to find another place.
We went to the hotel where we stayed four years ago – where we were during the bombing and talked to a woman who remembered us. I gave her pictures I had taken of her and her family at that time. She was thrilled.
We talked to several travel agencies about a trip to Kalimantan and one to Komoto.
We took a bus to Ubud. We just happened upon the restaurant of a friend. When we were here before, our friend, Dennis, took us to Ubud to meet a friend of his. This was the restaurant. I had pictures to give out. The daughter was so happy we had come by.
Saturday, November 04, 2006
11-2 (Thursday)
Last night we arranged for a taxi to pick us up at 9:00 for the airport. Our plane wasn’t leaving until 11:50.
When we checked in we had all kinds of problems- first the girl thought we hadn’t paid our departure fee but as of the day before it is now included in the price of your ticket. It costs $14 to depart from Vietnam. Then the girl needed proof that we were going to leave Bali and when. We told her we didn’t have a ticket to leave and weren’t exactly sure where or when. She was trying to tell us we couldn’t go unless we had a ticket out of the country. We showed her proof that we were leaving Bangkok for the US on the 22nd of this month. She didn’t seem to care about that. She finally went and talked to someone else, came back and let us on the plane. Thank goodness we left for the airport as soon as we did.
It was an hour and a half into Singapore. We were served a wonderful meal with wine. They didn’t charge us like Northwest did on the way over.
The Singapore airport was VERY nice. They even had FREE Internet throughout the airport and it WORKED! We walked around, did internet and killed a couple of hours until it was time to leave for Bali at 7:00.
We arrived in Bali about 9 p.m. At the airport we arranged for a hotel. It was awful and it cost us $28!!! They said they had hot water but the hotel people forgot to turn it on in our room. We went to bed without taking showers and decided we would move to a new place as soon as we got up in the morning.
Last night we arranged for a taxi to pick us up at 9:00 for the airport. Our plane wasn’t leaving until 11:50.
When we checked in we had all kinds of problems- first the girl thought we hadn’t paid our departure fee but as of the day before it is now included in the price of your ticket. It costs $14 to depart from Vietnam. Then the girl needed proof that we were going to leave Bali and when. We told her we didn’t have a ticket to leave and weren’t exactly sure where or when. She was trying to tell us we couldn’t go unless we had a ticket out of the country. We showed her proof that we were leaving Bangkok for the US on the 22nd of this month. She didn’t seem to care about that. She finally went and talked to someone else, came back and let us on the plane. Thank goodness we left for the airport as soon as we did.
It was an hour and a half into Singapore. We were served a wonderful meal with wine. They didn’t charge us like Northwest did on the way over.
The Singapore airport was VERY nice. They even had FREE Internet throughout the airport and it WORKED! We walked around, did internet and killed a couple of hours until it was time to leave for Bali at 7:00.
We arrived in Bali about 9 p.m. At the airport we arranged for a hotel. It was awful and it cost us $28!!! They said they had hot water but the hotel people forgot to turn it on in our room. We went to bed without taking showers and decided we would move to a new place as soon as we got up in the morning.
11-1 (Wednesday)
After breakfast we headed out to book a flight to Bali for the next day. First we stopped at the corner where Ha (the young street girl Dinki and I met last year) usually works. I talked to a woman I had talked to the night before about Ha. She went around the corner and found Ha’s mother. We met her little brother about 5 or 6 years old and her father who wanted to give us a motorcycle ride. They told us that Ha now works at the Gen Thanh Market during the day and goes to school at night. The mother called her on her cell phone and Ha said she would come to our hotel at 6:00 that evening to meet us.
We went to several travel agencies interviewing them to see which one we liked best to get our Bali tickets. We decided on one. When we went back to book the flight the man who worked there said, “She’s retired!” We thought that was quick but what he meant was that she was at lunch. We went back later and got the ticket.
Tonight we waited for Ha to show up at the hotel but she never did. I don’t know what happened. Maybe she couldn’t find it because it is rather new and she didn’t seem to know when I talked to her.
We went to dinner where I treated Joyce for her birthday – it was closed! We looked through the window and it was totally empty! We saw a sign on the door that said they would reopen in Dec. after they did renovations. We ended up eating at a fabulous French Restaurant.
We had money we had to get rid of so we bought a couple of books then went to a department store. Joyce bought a couple of blouses but I couldn’t find anything to spend my money on.
After breakfast we headed out to book a flight to Bali for the next day. First we stopped at the corner where Ha (the young street girl Dinki and I met last year) usually works. I talked to a woman I had talked to the night before about Ha. She went around the corner and found Ha’s mother. We met her little brother about 5 or 6 years old and her father who wanted to give us a motorcycle ride. They told us that Ha now works at the Gen Thanh Market during the day and goes to school at night. The mother called her on her cell phone and Ha said she would come to our hotel at 6:00 that evening to meet us.
We went to several travel agencies interviewing them to see which one we liked best to get our Bali tickets. We decided on one. When we went back to book the flight the man who worked there said, “She’s retired!” We thought that was quick but what he meant was that she was at lunch. We went back later and got the ticket.
Tonight we waited for Ha to show up at the hotel but she never did. I don’t know what happened. Maybe she couldn’t find it because it is rather new and she didn’t seem to know when I talked to her.
We went to dinner where I treated Joyce for her birthday – it was closed! We looked through the window and it was totally empty! We saw a sign on the door that said they would reopen in Dec. after they did renovations. We ended up eating at a fabulous French Restaurant.
We had money we had to get rid of so we bought a couple of books then went to a department store. Joyce bought a couple of blouses but I couldn’t find anything to spend my money on.
Friday, November 03, 2006
10-31 (Tuesday) dumped
After breakfast we headed out to Chinatown. Joyce wanted to do one thing and I wanted to tour the ancient Quoc Tu Pagoda plus see some of the other sights so we split up. I hired a cyclo to peddle me around to the various places. The driver and I agreed on 35000 for an hour. About half way through the trip he started telling me that he had four children and how poor he was. We were on our way back to where he picked me up and where Joyce was waiting when he started telling me I was going to owe him more money. I told him we had agreed on the price. He kept saying it wasn’t enough. I said “Fine, pull over right here and I’ll get out because I’m not giving you any more money.” He didn’t like it but he kept peddling. He started telling me again that I owed him more money. I said, “Stop.” And he did! I got out and handed him the 35000. He wouldn’t take it. I walked off. In a minute here he comes holding out his hand. I gave him the money. I started following him because I was sure he was going back to the market where he had picked me up. Of course in wasn’t any time before I lost sight of him. I had NO idea where I was. I stopped and asked some woman how long it would take me to walk to the market. She said 30 minutes. I was supposed to meet Joyce in about5 minutes so I hired a motorcycle to take me back. There was that Cyclo driver! Joyce was waiting for me. She said he came up to her and it sounded like he was saying something about medicine. She didn’t know he was my driver but she wondered if I had been in an accident. Several of his fellow drivers came up and asked me how much I gave him. I told them about the agreement and what he had done to me. They said, “He’s a very bad man.” I was furious at the time but later I thought it was really funny.
When we got back to District One (the main part of town) we went on a tour of the Presidential Palace. This is the one that the tanks ran through the gates when Saigon fell. Both tanks are on display on the grounds. The tour was so interesting. We saw where the President entertained, had cabinet meetings, the war rooms with all the original maps, the private quarters, the helicopter pad on the roof and the location where the pilot “spy” dropped two bombs on the palace. One of the most interesting parts was seeing the bunker way underground. We got to go all through it. The equipment (phones, teletype machines etc) all looked like it was from WW I instead of the 60’s. The kitchen was also very interesting with all the original equipment. The woks were HUGE.
That night we went to the historical Caravelle Hotel (9th floor) to the Saigon Bar Rooftop Café where all the foreign war correspondents used to hang out and drink. The view looking down on the city was breathtaking.
After breakfast we headed out to Chinatown. Joyce wanted to do one thing and I wanted to tour the ancient Quoc Tu Pagoda plus see some of the other sights so we split up. I hired a cyclo to peddle me around to the various places. The driver and I agreed on 35000 for an hour. About half way through the trip he started telling me that he had four children and how poor he was. We were on our way back to where he picked me up and where Joyce was waiting when he started telling me I was going to owe him more money. I told him we had agreed on the price. He kept saying it wasn’t enough. I said “Fine, pull over right here and I’ll get out because I’m not giving you any more money.” He didn’t like it but he kept peddling. He started telling me again that I owed him more money. I said, “Stop.” And he did! I got out and handed him the 35000. He wouldn’t take it. I walked off. In a minute here he comes holding out his hand. I gave him the money. I started following him because I was sure he was going back to the market where he had picked me up. Of course in wasn’t any time before I lost sight of him. I had NO idea where I was. I stopped and asked some woman how long it would take me to walk to the market. She said 30 minutes. I was supposed to meet Joyce in about5 minutes so I hired a motorcycle to take me back. There was that Cyclo driver! Joyce was waiting for me. She said he came up to her and it sounded like he was saying something about medicine. She didn’t know he was my driver but she wondered if I had been in an accident. Several of his fellow drivers came up and asked me how much I gave him. I told them about the agreement and what he had done to me. They said, “He’s a very bad man.” I was furious at the time but later I thought it was really funny.
When we got back to District One (the main part of town) we went on a tour of the Presidential Palace. This is the one that the tanks ran through the gates when Saigon fell. Both tanks are on display on the grounds. The tour was so interesting. We saw where the President entertained, had cabinet meetings, the war rooms with all the original maps, the private quarters, the helicopter pad on the roof and the location where the pilot “spy” dropped two bombs on the palace. One of the most interesting parts was seeing the bunker way underground. We got to go all through it. The equipment (phones, teletype machines etc) all looked like it was from WW I instead of the 60’s. The kitchen was also very interesting with all the original equipment. The woks were HUGE.
That night we went to the historical Caravelle Hotel (9th floor) to the Saigon Bar Rooftop Café where all the foreign war correspondents used to hang out and drink. The view looking down on the city was breathtaking.
10-29 (Sunday) On the Reunification Express . . .Neither of us slept well last night. I was too cold and then too hot. I got the extra cover from the bunk above me. This morning the conductor reprimanded me for using it. It belonged to another bunk even though no one was there to use it! We were awake when the sun came up because the curtains fell off the window last night when we were trying to close them.They brought us a container of dry noodles for breakfast. I’m sure we could have gotten hot water to mix them with but we didn’t want them. We ate the snacks we brought with us, mostly M & M’s and other candy! It’s no wonder I’ve only lost 2 lbs on the trip! For lunch they gave us steamed rice, soup, beef with something in it and another unrecognizable veggie. Pass.A big crowd of Westerners got off in Hue. I got real excited thinking it might be Saigon. The conductor said, “No.” I asked what time we’d get to Saigon and he wrote on his hand, 4:30. Bummer. We were thinking we’d get there around 2 p.m.The scenery on this part of the journey was breathtaking: lush rice paddies, water buffalo chasing each other, quaint villages, and gorgeous mountains with the sea crashing onto giant rocks down below. We traveled in the mountains looking down on the coastline for a long, long time. It reminded me a little of S. Africa.This was undoubtedly the nosiest train I had ever been on and I’ve been on a lot. It was also the roughest ride. We thought we were going to be lulled to sleep last night – NOT! Our compartment must have been right on top of the wheels because we felt everything.At 4:45 p.m. it appeared we were getting near Saigon because the houses and shops started to build up. The train began slowing. We got all of our luggage out in the hall next to the exit. We went back in the compartment to wait when Joyce said, “You know, we haven’t been on the train 24 hours yet.” Oh horrors! We grabbed all of our luggage and hauled it back into the cabin. We knew the trip was no less than 27 hours but we were so anxious to get off that we believed we were almost there. It wasn’t long before they served Joyce’s birthday dinner: steamed rice, some green veggie, beef with what we thought was potatoes but turned out to be giant hunks of fat! Happy Birthday!We were finally over the shock of being another night on the train. We brushed our teeth and settled in for another night. We hadn’t been asleep long when the train stopped at some station around 11 p.m. Don’t you know a whole crowd got on and to make matters worse four people switched on the lights and came into our compartment. Thank goodness we had the two lower bunks. They crawled all over us and went to their places. Happy Birthday!We arrived in Saigon at 4:30 in the morning. We were dead tired. We got a taxi (paid too much) and went to the hotel. We had told them we were coming in the night before so we paid for the room even though we weren’t there. The good thing was that we could go into the room at 5 a.m. and shower and throw our stuff around. I fell asleep while I was waiting for Joyce to come out of the bathroom.We got ourselves together and went out to see the town. We walked down to the Notre Dame Church. Went to a big department store and walked down to the old palace to take a tour. It was closed for lunch! We went back to the hotel after eating some lunch to take a rest. We were pretty much out of it all day.That night we went out for a nice dinner at a place where Dinki and I had eaten when we were here last year. I bought Joyce her belated birthday dinner. She liked it much better than the globs of fat she had on the train the night before.
10-31 (Tuesday) dumped
After breakfast we headed out to Chinatown. Joyce wanted to do one thing and I wanted to tour the ancient Quoc Tu Pagoda plus see some of the other sights so we split up. I hired a cyclo to peddle me around to the various places. The driver and I agreed on 35000 for an hour. About half way through the trip he started telling me that he had four children and how poor he was. We were on our way back to where he picked me up and where Joyce was waiting when he started telling me I was going to owe him more money. I told him we had agreed on the price. He kept saying it wasn’t enough. I said “Fine, pull over right here and I’ll get out because I’m not giving you any more money.” He didn’t like it but he kept peddling. He started telling me again that I owed him more money. I said, “Stop.” And he did! I got out and handed him the 35000. He wouldn’t take it. I walked off. In a minute here he comes holding out his hand. I gave him the money. I started following him because I was sure he was going back to the market where he had picked me up. Of course in wasn’t any time before I lost sight of him. I had NO idea where I was. I stopped and asked some woman how long it would take me to walk to the market. She said 30 minutes. I was supposed to meet Joyce in about5 minutes so I hired a motorcycle to take me back. There was that Cyclo driver! Joyce was waiting for me. She said he came up to her and it sounded like he was saying something about medicine. She didn’t know he was my driver but she wondered if I had been in an accident. Several of his fellow drivers came up and asked me how much I gave him. I told them about the agreement and what he had done to me. They said, “He’s a very bad man.” I was furious at the time but later I thought it was really funny.
When we got back to District One (the main part of town) we went on a tour of the Presidential Palace. This is the one that the tanks ran through the gates when Saigon fell. Both tanks are on display on the grounds. The tour was so interesting. We saw where the President entertained, had cabinet meetings, the war rooms with all the original maps, the private quarters, the helicopter pad on the roof and the location where the pilot “spy” dropped two bombs on the palace. One of the most interesting parts was seeing the bunker way underground. We got to go all through it. The equipment (phones, teletype machines etc) all looked like it was from WW I instead of the 60’s. The kitchen was also very interesting with all the original equipment. The woks were HUGE.
That night we went to the historical Caravelle Hotel (9th floor) to the Saigon Bar Rooftop Café where all the foreign war correspondents used to hang out and drink. The view looking down on the city was breathtaking.
10-31 (Tuesday) dumped
After breakfast we headed out to Chinatown. Joyce wanted to do one thing and I wanted to tour the ancient Quoc Tu Pagoda plus see some of the other sights so we split up. I hired a cyclo to peddle me around to the various places. The driver and I agreed on 35000 for an hour. About half way through the trip he started telling me that he had four children and how poor he was. We were on our way back to where he picked me up and where Joyce was waiting when he started telling me I was going to owe him more money. I told him we had agreed on the price. He kept saying it wasn’t enough. I said “Fine, pull over right here and I’ll get out because I’m not giving you any more money.” He didn’t like it but he kept peddling. He started telling me again that I owed him more money. I said, “Stop.” And he did! I got out and handed him the 35000. He wouldn’t take it. I walked off. In a minute here he comes holding out his hand. I gave him the money. I started following him because I was sure he was going back to the market where he had picked me up. Of course in wasn’t any time before I lost sight of him. I had NO idea where I was. I stopped and asked some woman how long it would take me to walk to the market. She said 30 minutes. I was supposed to meet Joyce in about5 minutes so I hired a motorcycle to take me back. There was that Cyclo driver! Joyce was waiting for me. She said he came up to her and it sounded like he was saying something about medicine. She didn’t know he was my driver but she wondered if I had been in an accident. Several of his fellow drivers came up and asked me how much I gave him. I told them about the agreement and what he had done to me. They said, “He’s a very bad man.” I was furious at the time but later I thought it was really funny.
When we got back to District One (the main part of town) we went on a tour of the Presidential Palace. This is the one that the tanks ran through the gates when Saigon fell. Both tanks are on display on the grounds. The tour was so interesting. We saw where the President entertained, had cabinet meetings, the war rooms with all the original maps, the private quarters, the helicopter pad on the roof and the location where the pilot “spy” dropped two bombs on the palace. One of the most interesting parts was seeing the bunker way underground. We got to go all through it. The equipment (phones, teletype machines etc) all looked like it was from WW I instead of the 60’s. The kitchen was also very interesting with all the original equipment. The woks were HUGE.
That night we went to the historical Caravelle Hotel (9th floor) to the Saigon Bar Rooftop Café where all the foreign war correspondents used to hang out and drink. The view looking down on the city was breathtaking.
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
10-29 (Sunday) On the Reunification Express . . .
Neither of us slept well last night. I was too cold and then too hot. I got the extra cover from the bunk above me. This morning the conductor reprimanded me for using it. It belonged to another bunk even though no one was there to use it! We were awake when the sun came up because the curtains fell off the window last night when we were trying to close them.
They brought us a container of dry noodles for breakfast. I’m sure we could have gotten hot water to mix them with but we didn’t want them. We ate the snacks we brought with us, mostly M & M’s and other candy! It’s no wonder I’ve only lost 2 lbs on the trip! For lunch they gave us steamed rice, soup, beef with something in it and another unrecognizable veggie. Pass.
A big crowd of Westerners got off in Hue. I got real excited thinking it might be Saigon. The conductor said, “No.” I asked what time we’d get to Saigon and he wrote on his hand, 4:30. Bummer. We were thinking we’d get there around 2 p.m.
The scenery on this part of the journey was breathtaking: lush rice paddies, water buffalo chasing each other, quaint villages, and gorgeous mountains with the sea crashing onto giant rocks down below. We traveled in the mountains looking down on the coastline for a long, long time. It reminded me a little of S. Africa.
This was undoubtedly the nosiest train I had ever been on and I’ve been on a lot. It was also the roughest ride. We thought we were going to be lulled to sleep last night – NOT! Our compartment must have been right on top of the wheels because we felt everything.
At 4:45 p.m. it appeared we were getting near Saigon because the houses and shops started to build up. The train began slowing. We got all of our luggage out in the hall next to the exit. We went back in the compartment to wait when Joyce said, “You know, we haven’t been on the train 24 hours yet.” Oh horrors! We grabbed all of our luggage and hauled it back into the cabin. We knew the trip was no less than 27 hours but we were so anxious to get off that we believed we were almost there. It wasn’t long before they served Joyce’s birthday dinner: steamed rice, some green veggie, beef with what we thought was potatoes but turned out to be giant hunks of fat! Happy Birthday!
We were finally over the shock of being another night on the train. We brushed our teeth and settled in for another night. We hadn’t been asleep long when the train stopped at some station around 11 p.m. Don’t you know a whole crowd got on and to make matters worse four people switched on the lights and came into our compartment. Thank goodness we had the two lower bunks. They crawled all over us and went to their places. Happy Birthday!
We arrived in Saigon at 4:30 in the morning. We were dead tired. We got a taxi (paid too much) and went to the hotel. We had told them we were coming in the night before so we paid for the room even though we weren’t there. The good thing was that we could go into the room at 5 a.m. and shower and throw our stuff around. I fell asleep while I was waiting for Joyce to come out of the bathroom.
We got ourselves together and went out to see the town. We walked down to the Notre Dame Church. Went to a big department store and walked down to the old palace to take a tour. It was closed for lunch! We went back to the hotel after eating some lunch to take a rest. We were pretty much out of it all day.
That night we went out for a nice dinner at a place where Dinki and I had eaten when we were here last year. I bought Joyce her belated birthday dinner. She liked it much better than the globs of fat she had on the train the night before.
Neither of us slept well last night. I was too cold and then too hot. I got the extra cover from the bunk above me. This morning the conductor reprimanded me for using it. It belonged to another bunk even though no one was there to use it! We were awake when the sun came up because the curtains fell off the window last night when we were trying to close them.
They brought us a container of dry noodles for breakfast. I’m sure we could have gotten hot water to mix them with but we didn’t want them. We ate the snacks we brought with us, mostly M & M’s and other candy! It’s no wonder I’ve only lost 2 lbs on the trip! For lunch they gave us steamed rice, soup, beef with something in it and another unrecognizable veggie. Pass.
A big crowd of Westerners got off in Hue. I got real excited thinking it might be Saigon. The conductor said, “No.” I asked what time we’d get to Saigon and he wrote on his hand, 4:30. Bummer. We were thinking we’d get there around 2 p.m.
The scenery on this part of the journey was breathtaking: lush rice paddies, water buffalo chasing each other, quaint villages, and gorgeous mountains with the sea crashing onto giant rocks down below. We traveled in the mountains looking down on the coastline for a long, long time. It reminded me a little of S. Africa.
This was undoubtedly the nosiest train I had ever been on and I’ve been on a lot. It was also the roughest ride. We thought we were going to be lulled to sleep last night – NOT! Our compartment must have been right on top of the wheels because we felt everything.
At 4:45 p.m. it appeared we were getting near Saigon because the houses and shops started to build up. The train began slowing. We got all of our luggage out in the hall next to the exit. We went back in the compartment to wait when Joyce said, “You know, we haven’t been on the train 24 hours yet.” Oh horrors! We grabbed all of our luggage and hauled it back into the cabin. We knew the trip was no less than 27 hours but we were so anxious to get off that we believed we were almost there. It wasn’t long before they served Joyce’s birthday dinner: steamed rice, some green veggie, beef with what we thought was potatoes but turned out to be giant hunks of fat! Happy Birthday!
We were finally over the shock of being another night on the train. We brushed our teeth and settled in for another night. We hadn’t been asleep long when the train stopped at some station around 11 p.m. Don’t you know a whole crowd got on and to make matters worse four people switched on the lights and came into our compartment. Thank goodness we had the two lower bunks. They crawled all over us and went to their places. Happy Birthday!
We arrived in Saigon at 4:30 in the morning. We were dead tired. We got a taxi (paid too much) and went to the hotel. We had told them we were coming in the night before so we paid for the room even though we weren’t there. The good thing was that we could go into the room at 5 a.m. and shower and throw our stuff around. I fell asleep while I was waiting for Joyce to come out of the bathroom.
We got ourselves together and went out to see the town. We walked down to the Notre Dame Church. Went to a big department store and walked down to the old palace to take a tour. It was closed for lunch! We went back to the hotel after eating some lunch to take a rest. We were pretty much out of it all day.
That night we went out for a nice dinner at a place where Dinki and I had eaten when we were here last year. I bought Joyce her belated birthday dinner. She liked it much better than the globs of fat she had on the train the night before.
10-28 (Saturday) Continued . . .
We killed at least an hour in a department store. We went to the Internet – we stayed an hour even though we probably only did 10 minutes worth of mail because the computers were so slow. When we finished we got to talking to the young guy who works there. He was telling us that he works from 2 p.m. until 8 a.m. daily. That’s 18 hours a day! He makes $50 a month out of which he supports his elderly parents and his sister who is at the university.
At 10:00 we went back to our hotel and got a taxi to the train station. As soon as we got out of the cab some guy grabbed our luggage and wouldn’t turn loose of it. We needed help anyway so we didn’t protest too loudly. We got to the correct track and showed our tickets to one of the conductors to help us find the right car. He started shaking his head, “No.” Come to find out when we went to pick up our tickets the day before the girl gave us the wrong ones! She gave us tickets on the 7 p.m. train instead of the 11 p.m. train! We were out of luck. The guy that had grabbed our bags went with me to the ticket office. The woman at the booth was real snotty to me. I knew I had to buy new tickets and that she wasn’t going to give me “credit.” Dinki, remember when this happened to us in Russia? I had to come up wit 1,866,000. Thank goodness I had cashed a check the day before. The soft sleepers were sold out so we had to take a hard sleeper. The soft sleeper in addition to being a little more plush had 2 bunks in a compartment – ours had 3 but we were extremely lucky that we were the only two in it. Joyce paid the guy who had grabbed our bags and hauled them all the way to our cabin. She gave him 28,000 (about $2) he said he wanted 50,000 ($3.) She didn’t understand him and thought he was saying 15,000. She counted out the money and told him she gave him more than 15,000. He took the money and stormed off.
We prepared to settle in for our trip on the Reunification Express to Saigon.
We killed at least an hour in a department store. We went to the Internet – we stayed an hour even though we probably only did 10 minutes worth of mail because the computers were so slow. When we finished we got to talking to the young guy who works there. He was telling us that he works from 2 p.m. until 8 a.m. daily. That’s 18 hours a day! He makes $50 a month out of which he supports his elderly parents and his sister who is at the university.
At 10:00 we went back to our hotel and got a taxi to the train station. As soon as we got out of the cab some guy grabbed our luggage and wouldn’t turn loose of it. We needed help anyway so we didn’t protest too loudly. We got to the correct track and showed our tickets to one of the conductors to help us find the right car. He started shaking his head, “No.” Come to find out when we went to pick up our tickets the day before the girl gave us the wrong ones! She gave us tickets on the 7 p.m. train instead of the 11 p.m. train! We were out of luck. The guy that had grabbed our bags went with me to the ticket office. The woman at the booth was real snotty to me. I knew I had to buy new tickets and that she wasn’t going to give me “credit.” Dinki, remember when this happened to us in Russia? I had to come up wit 1,866,000. Thank goodness I had cashed a check the day before. The soft sleepers were sold out so we had to take a hard sleeper. The soft sleeper in addition to being a little more plush had 2 bunks in a compartment – ours had 3 but we were extremely lucky that we were the only two in it. Joyce paid the guy who had grabbed our bags and hauled them all the way to our cabin. She gave him 28,000 (about $2) he said he wanted 50,000 ($3.) She didn’t understand him and thought he was saying 15,000. She counted out the money and told him she gave him more than 15,000. He took the money and stormed off.
We prepared to settle in for our trip on the Reunification Express to Saigon.
Oct. 29 Joyce's birthday!
All of you who know Joyce please send her a birthday greething and some news from home. Sunday, Oct. 29 was her birthday. She will be sooooooooooo happy if she gets messages from home.
I could never ask for a better travel partner than she has been. This is the sweetest girl in in world. She is such a good sport and the most compassionate, sympathetic and giving person. In Asia it is expected that you bargain for everything. She feels so sorry for the people that if they ask 100 for an item she is likely to give them 125! I bought something in Luang Prabang and she thought I paid too little. She told me later that she considered slipping the woman another 50. Thank goodness she didn't because it was for that stupid shirt I bought that all the color washed out of and fell apart the next day. She's doing a little better now days.
Anyway, if you know her be sure to send birthday greetings.
All of you who know Joyce please send her a birthday greething and some news from home. Sunday, Oct. 29 was her birthday. She will be sooooooooooo happy if she gets messages from home.
I could never ask for a better travel partner than she has been. This is the sweetest girl in in world. She is such a good sport and the most compassionate, sympathetic and giving person. In Asia it is expected that you bargain for everything. She feels so sorry for the people that if they ask 100 for an item she is likely to give them 125! I bought something in Luang Prabang and she thought I paid too little. She told me later that she considered slipping the woman another 50. Thank goodness she didn't because it was for that stupid shirt I bought that all the color washed out of and fell apart the next day. She's doing a little better now days.
Anyway, if you know her be sure to send birthday greetings.
Saturday, October 28, 2006
10-28 (Saturday) Hanoi
I felt much better today – back to normal.
After breakfast we went back to the room to finish packing up for our trip to Saigon tonight. We leave by train at 11 p.m. We hung around the room reading and watching CNN until noon when we had to store our luggage and leave the hotel. We have been homeless ever since.
We took motorcycles to the Sheraton Hotel which I though was across from where Dinki and I used to eat. Well, I was wrong. We drove way out of town. We cruised through the gift shops and then decided to check out the lunch buffet. It had everything and it ALL looked fabulous. In a minute Joyce was calling to me, "Nancy, Nancy come here. You’re not going to believer this!" She thought the hostess told her it was $1.80!!! In reality it was $18.50!!! A slight miscommunication!
We again hired motorcycles to take us to the Hilton Hotel. The dumped us at the Hilton Center. We had to walk from there to the Opera House. Then we went to Au Lac Café which is where we were trying to go in the beginning. We had a wonderful meal then wandered around. We finally parked ourselves at the Hilton. We were going to do email at their business center but it was 15 cents a minute. No thank you!
Being homeless isn’t fun. We have walked and walked today. My feet are killing me and I want to get in a bed. We shared a meal tonight and are now just waiting for the time to pass so we can go to the train station.
I felt much better today – back to normal.
After breakfast we went back to the room to finish packing up for our trip to Saigon tonight. We leave by train at 11 p.m. We hung around the room reading and watching CNN until noon when we had to store our luggage and leave the hotel. We have been homeless ever since.
We took motorcycles to the Sheraton Hotel which I though was across from where Dinki and I used to eat. Well, I was wrong. We drove way out of town. We cruised through the gift shops and then decided to check out the lunch buffet. It had everything and it ALL looked fabulous. In a minute Joyce was calling to me, "Nancy, Nancy come here. You’re not going to believer this!" She thought the hostess told her it was $1.80!!! In reality it was $18.50!!! A slight miscommunication!
We again hired motorcycles to take us to the Hilton Hotel. The dumped us at the Hilton Center. We had to walk from there to the Opera House. Then we went to Au Lac Café which is where we were trying to go in the beginning. We had a wonderful meal then wandered around. We finally parked ourselves at the Hilton. We were going to do email at their business center but it was 15 cents a minute. No thank you!
Being homeless isn’t fun. We have walked and walked today. My feet are killing me and I want to get in a bed. We shared a meal tonight and are now just waiting for the time to pass so we can go to the train station.
10-27 (Friday) Hanoi
I didn’t feel well when I woke up. I was still a little off balance. We had a late breakfast at the hotel. We went back to the room and rested for a long time. I still didn’t feel good. We finally had lunch around 2"00, went to the grocery store and then went to one of the silk shops we were in yesterday and I bought a jacket. We dumped everything at the hotel then went to the Internet. Just like yesterday the computers were awful
When we got back to the hotel I took a shower and went to bed.
I didn’t feel well when I woke up. I was still a little off balance. We had a late breakfast at the hotel. We went back to the room and rested for a long time. I still didn’t feel good. We finally had lunch around 2"00, went to the grocery store and then went to one of the silk shops we were in yesterday and I bought a jacket. We dumped everything at the hotel then went to the Internet. Just like yesterday the computers were awful
When we got back to the hotel I took a shower and went to bed.
10-26 (Thursday) Hanoi
We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel because it was included with the room.
We went to the bank so Joyce could cash some checks. It was a brand new bank next to where Dinki and I withdrew millions last year. Our bank was still next door. We walked down to the supermarket and bought a few items. We shopped in a few upscale places and a few stalls as we walked back to the hotel.
We had planned to eat lunch at the Bistro but it is no longer there. We found a nice restaurant right on Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake closest to our hotel. We had a great meal but it was too much food.
We walked down one of the many drags. Joyce found a beautiful store with a box of things on sale for $5. She bought several things and got great deals especially a jacket for $5. We walked on and went into Dinki’s favorite silk shop, Khaisilk. Joyce bought several things there.
WE went back to the hotel to rest because it was so hot. I felt really weird when I got up. I was off balance. We decided to go to a travel agency and get our train tickets for Saigon. We will take the night train on Saturday. We walked down to Fanny’s and I had another ice cream. We did internet but the computer were awful. It was hard to send, they crashed and it was a big mess. We have found very few Internet Cafes and all that we have tried have been terrible.
We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel because it was included with the room.
We went to the bank so Joyce could cash some checks. It was a brand new bank next to where Dinki and I withdrew millions last year. Our bank was still next door. We walked down to the supermarket and bought a few items. We shopped in a few upscale places and a few stalls as we walked back to the hotel.
We had planned to eat lunch at the Bistro but it is no longer there. We found a nice restaurant right on Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake closest to our hotel. We had a great meal but it was too much food.
We walked down one of the many drags. Joyce found a beautiful store with a box of things on sale for $5. She bought several things and got great deals especially a jacket for $5. We walked on and went into Dinki’s favorite silk shop, Khaisilk. Joyce bought several things there.
WE went back to the hotel to rest because it was so hot. I felt really weird when I got up. I was off balance. We decided to go to a travel agency and get our train tickets for Saigon. We will take the night train on Saturday. We walked down to Fanny’s and I had another ice cream. We did internet but the computer were awful. It was hard to send, they crashed and it was a big mess. We have found very few Internet Cafes and all that we have tried have been terrible.
Thursday, October 26, 2006
10-25 (Wednesday) Going to Hanoi
Yesterday was the happiest day of Joyce's entire journey - I threw away one of my shirts that she hates! She doesn't know it but I am going to throw away the other one when we get to Hanoi.
After breakfast at the French Restaurant we went to visit the King's Palace which is now a museum. The King and his entire family were in northern Laos in 1975 and have not been heard from since.
For some reason we were thinking we were to leave Luang Prabang at 1:00. We got back to the guest house only to discover that our flight didn't leave until almost 3:00. We decided to go ahead to the airport since we had already arranged transportation for 11:30.
We found out this morning that in just four days there are going to be direct flights between Luang Prabang and Hanoi. They're suppose to be really cheap.
We went to the airport at 11:30 in a tuk tuk. We were the only ones there. Others started to show up before long. Our flight wasn't until 2:40. There was only one runway in Luang Prabang. There are only a couple of flights in and out a day so they just do their own thing. We flew to Vientiane the capital of Lao. There was only one other plane at the airport when we arrived and only one when we left. Can you imagine the capital of a country only having two planes at their airport? They didn't appear to have a tower. As in Luang Prabankg when you're ready, you go. When we got on in Luang Prabang it wasn't two minutes after everyone was seated that we were headed the lthe runway.
The flight from Vientiane to Hanoi was 50 minutes. Some diplomat from Western Sahara was sitting with us. He said he lived in NY for 17 years. He told about being at the White House and having his picture made with Barbara Bush. After Hanoi he is going toYangon.
After we landed in Hanoi we got on a bus to take us to the airport buildings. We cleared customs, I cashed some money. They wouldn't take Joyce's Traveler's Checks because they were Visa. We got a cab for 550,000 ($9.33) into town. The driver stopped to shop along the way while we waited in the back seat!! We pulled up in front of some hotel and a guy came running out, opened our door and welcomed us to the hotel. I told him this wasn't our hotel. I knew it wasn't because we were booked into the same place Dinki and I stayed last year. He jumped in the cab with us and said we must be booked at his other place. The next place was a real dump. He wanted me to go in and look at the rooms. I told him "no." I said we had rooms that were already paid for and this wasn't it. He finally got out of our cab. I don't know where he came from or if it was a set up between him and the driver. It was very strange to say least. We drove some more - we didn't have an address, just the hotel name. Finally we pulled up to a hotel with the correct name but it wasn't the right one. I went inside and talked to the men at the desk. There was a computer so I got on it to look at the email from the girl in Saigon who set it up. About that time the desk clerk came over and said, "Nancy?" He had found my reservation at their other hotel. The taxi driver was furious because he had been driving us all over. He kept saying I needed to give him more money. I felt like he did deserve some extra. Bottom line .He . he finally got us to the right hotel. We are very happy at our new place.
I threw away another shirt tonight. Joyce is going to be so happy.
Yesterday was the happiest day of Joyce's entire journey - I threw away one of my shirts that she hates! She doesn't know it but I am going to throw away the other one when we get to Hanoi.
After breakfast at the French Restaurant we went to visit the King's Palace which is now a museum. The King and his entire family were in northern Laos in 1975 and have not been heard from since.
For some reason we were thinking we were to leave Luang Prabang at 1:00. We got back to the guest house only to discover that our flight didn't leave until almost 3:00. We decided to go ahead to the airport since we had already arranged transportation for 11:30.
We found out this morning that in just four days there are going to be direct flights between Luang Prabang and Hanoi. They're suppose to be really cheap.
We went to the airport at 11:30 in a tuk tuk. We were the only ones there. Others started to show up before long. Our flight wasn't until 2:40. There was only one runway in Luang Prabang. There are only a couple of flights in and out a day so they just do their own thing. We flew to Vientiane the capital of Lao. There was only one other plane at the airport when we arrived and only one when we left. Can you imagine the capital of a country only having two planes at their airport? They didn't appear to have a tower. As in Luang Prabankg when you're ready, you go. When we got on in Luang Prabang it wasn't two minutes after everyone was seated that we were headed the lthe runway.
The flight from Vientiane to Hanoi was 50 minutes. Some diplomat from Western Sahara was sitting with us. He said he lived in NY for 17 years. He told about being at the White House and having his picture made with Barbara Bush. After Hanoi he is going toYangon.
After we landed in Hanoi we got on a bus to take us to the airport buildings. We cleared customs, I cashed some money. They wouldn't take Joyce's Traveler's Checks because they were Visa. We got a cab for 550,000 ($9.33) into town. The driver stopped to shop along the way while we waited in the back seat!! We pulled up in front of some hotel and a guy came running out, opened our door and welcomed us to the hotel. I told him this wasn't our hotel. I knew it wasn't because we were booked into the same place Dinki and I stayed last year. He jumped in the cab with us and said we must be booked at his other place. The next place was a real dump. He wanted me to go in and look at the rooms. I told him "no." I said we had rooms that were already paid for and this wasn't it. He finally got out of our cab. I don't know where he came from or if it was a set up between him and the driver. It was very strange to say least. We drove some more - we didn't have an address, just the hotel name. Finally we pulled up to a hotel with the correct name but it wasn't the right one. I went inside and talked to the men at the desk. There was a computer so I got on it to look at the email from the girl in Saigon who set it up. About that time the desk clerk came over and said, "Nancy?" He had found my reservation at their other hotel. The taxi driver was furious because he had been driving us all over. He kept saying I needed to give him more money. I felt like he did deserve some extra. Bottom line .He . he finally got us to the right hotel. We are very happy at our new place.
I threw away another shirt tonight. Joyce is going to be so happy.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
10-24 (Tuesday)
We woke up bitching about the room this morning. We discussed checking out but didn’t want the hassle.
When we saw the manager she said our old room was available! We’re moving and now we’re happy. We can quit bitching.
We got all our stuff together so the hotel staff could move it then we headed off to the bank to get some MONEY! We didn’t want t6o get too much because we’re leaving tomorrow and we don’t want to get stuck with it.
We had a lovely breakfast at our French Restaurant then leisurely walked through some parts of town we hadn’t explored before. We shopped, I took pictures, we shopped, I went to the Wat Zieng Thong Temple and Joyce shopped!
The Wat Zieng Thong Temple (Luang Prabang’s most awesome) was constructed in 1559. One of the smaller chapels contains several funeral urns and a 40 foot wooden chariot hearse.
The sun was blazing so we went back to our bitch free room to rest, cool off and repack for tomorrow’s journey.
Late this afternoon we went to the museum but it was closed on Tuesdays. We’re hoping to get down there early in the morning before we have to go to the airport at 11:30.
We had dinner at one of our favorite places and now we’re at the net.
We woke up bitching about the room this morning. We discussed checking out but didn’t want the hassle.
When we saw the manager she said our old room was available! We’re moving and now we’re happy. We can quit bitching.
We got all our stuff together so the hotel staff could move it then we headed off to the bank to get some MONEY! We didn’t want t6o get too much because we’re leaving tomorrow and we don’t want to get stuck with it.
We had a lovely breakfast at our French Restaurant then leisurely walked through some parts of town we hadn’t explored before. We shopped, I took pictures, we shopped, I went to the Wat Zieng Thong Temple and Joyce shopped!
The Wat Zieng Thong Temple (Luang Prabang’s most awesome) was constructed in 1559. One of the smaller chapels contains several funeral urns and a 40 foot wooden chariot hearse.
The sun was blazing so we went back to our bitch free room to rest, cool off and repack for tomorrow’s journey.
Late this afternoon we went to the museum but it was closed on Tuesdays. We’re hoping to get down there early in the morning before we have to go to the airport at 11:30.
We had dinner at one of our favorite places and now we’re at the net.
10-23 (Monday) Home to Luang Praband
We slept great in our $8 room last night. We only had a fan but after the sun went down it got cool. I had to getup in the night and turn the fan off it was so cold.
The driver took us to breakfast where we had dinner last night. Right next door was the MAG office. This is the group that is dismantling all the land mines in Lao. We went in and saw all the artillery they have been pulling out of the ground in this area. 30years after the war they are still trying to make this country safe to live in.
The driver’s boss called and asked to speak to me. He wanted to know if we were coming home today. I told him we were. I told him we wanted to go to a Mong Village before we came home. He said we could and he wouldn’t charge us. Going to the village was a bomb. We thought we’d see tribal dress but NO, we hardly saw anyone. They were all at the fields working. We wasted about 2 ½ hours going there and walking through the village. We could have gotten back to Luang Prabang a lot sooner if we hadn’t gone to that boring village. We once again took 6 hours to cross the mountains arriving “home” at 4:30. We gave our driver a $6 tip.
We were back at our same guest house but had to move to one of the cottages since the “big” rooms were all taken. We were most unhappy with our new digs. It was way to small, the bathroom wasn’t as nice and the sink didn’t hold water for clothes washing. The positives were that it had A/C and two beds. We bitched about it.
We decided to get away from it so we walked to town for a nice dinner. We tried a new place which was lovely. We split a chicken dish with ginger and onions. Yummy! We had garlic bread and I had a glass of wine. Afterwards Joyce wanted to show me some sort of money belt she wanted to buy. We walked way down the street to where she had seen it but she couldn’t find it. There was only one so they must have sold it. It really didn’t matter because neither of us had any money.
On our way home we stopped off to do the internet with the few cents we had left. After that – she didn’t have enough to pay for her net – I only had about 6 cents left!
We went back to the room and bitched some more!
We slept great in our $8 room last night. We only had a fan but after the sun went down it got cool. I had to getup in the night and turn the fan off it was so cold.
The driver took us to breakfast where we had dinner last night. Right next door was the MAG office. This is the group that is dismantling all the land mines in Lao. We went in and saw all the artillery they have been pulling out of the ground in this area. 30years after the war they are still trying to make this country safe to live in.
The driver’s boss called and asked to speak to me. He wanted to know if we were coming home today. I told him we were. I told him we wanted to go to a Mong Village before we came home. He said we could and he wouldn’t charge us. Going to the village was a bomb. We thought we’d see tribal dress but NO, we hardly saw anyone. They were all at the fields working. We wasted about 2 ½ hours going there and walking through the village. We could have gotten back to Luang Prabang a lot sooner if we hadn’t gone to that boring village. We once again took 6 hours to cross the mountains arriving “home” at 4:30. We gave our driver a $6 tip.
We were back at our same guest house but had to move to one of the cottages since the “big” rooms were all taken. We were most unhappy with our new digs. It was way to small, the bathroom wasn’t as nice and the sink didn’t hold water for clothes washing. The positives were that it had A/C and two beds. We bitched about it.
We decided to get away from it so we walked to town for a nice dinner. We tried a new place which was lovely. We split a chicken dish with ginger and onions. Yummy! We had garlic bread and I had a glass of wine. Afterwards Joyce wanted to show me some sort of money belt she wanted to buy. We walked way down the street to where she had seen it but she couldn’t find it. There was only one so they must have sold it. It really didn’t matter because neither of us had any money.
On our way home we stopped off to do the internet with the few cents we had left. After that – she didn’t have enough to pay for her net – I only had about 6 cents left!
We went back to the room and bitched some more!
10-22 (Sunday) On the way to the Plain of Jars
We had breakfast, paid for our room and put our suitcases in storage until we get back from Phonsovan (The Plain of Jars.)
Our driver picked us up at 8:00 for our 6 hour trip over the mountains. It was a beautiful drive but it was one hairpin turn after another. It reminded us of going over the mountains in Myanmar except the roads were better. Our driver was great and there were even seat belts in the van - a first.
We stopped at a decent size village for lunch. Joyce and I didn't like anything on the menu so we told the driver to eat while we walked around. I was looking in a shop while some very young girl with a baby strapped to her back stood watching me. I thought I was looking at sarongs or cloth - I lifted the hanger and it was a lovely sundress for a girl. I held it up to the little girl, it looked like it would fit her. I asked the woman how much? She told me $3.50 - I bought it for $2.50 and gave it to the little girl. She seemed happy - she smiled and smiled. The mother came over about then and took the bag with the dress. Hopefully the child got to keep it.
We were back on the road to Phonsovan arriving about 2:30.
We went by a guest house and I went in to look at it. It didn't have air, just a fan so I wanted to keep looking. We went to two more places that were worse. Someone told us that none of the places in Phonsovan have A/C because it is so cool at night. We went back to the first place and took a room for $8 a night.
As soon as we registered and threw our stuff in the room we took off for the1st Jar Field. There were 334 jars at this site which were carved from boulders using a chisel and hammer. There are believed to have been made between 500 BC and 500 AD as vessels for elaborate death rituals. The dead were placed in the urns until the body decomposed before being cremated. We walked down to the cave where the cremations were done. You might wonder if you've seen one jar field haven't you seen them all? In a way yes but I liked the 3rd field the best because it was so much fun getting to it. We had to walk across an old bamboo bridge, walk on a narrow path alo9ng rice patties, climb over bamboo fences, jump over small streams and climb a hill. It was dark by the time we got back from this one.
We went with the driver to eat when we got back to town. Joyce gets car sick so going over the mountains was two days of misery for her.
We had breakfast, paid for our room and put our suitcases in storage until we get back from Phonsovan (The Plain of Jars.)
Our driver picked us up at 8:00 for our 6 hour trip over the mountains. It was a beautiful drive but it was one hairpin turn after another. It reminded us of going over the mountains in Myanmar except the roads were better. Our driver was great and there were even seat belts in the van - a first.
We stopped at a decent size village for lunch. Joyce and I didn't like anything on the menu so we told the driver to eat while we walked around. I was looking in a shop while some very young girl with a baby strapped to her back stood watching me. I thought I was looking at sarongs or cloth - I lifted the hanger and it was a lovely sundress for a girl. I held it up to the little girl, it looked like it would fit her. I asked the woman how much? She told me $3.50 - I bought it for $2.50 and gave it to the little girl. She seemed happy - she smiled and smiled. The mother came over about then and took the bag with the dress. Hopefully the child got to keep it.
We were back on the road to Phonsovan arriving about 2:30.
We went by a guest house and I went in to look at it. It didn't have air, just a fan so I wanted to keep looking. We went to two more places that were worse. Someone told us that none of the places in Phonsovan have A/C because it is so cool at night. We went back to the first place and took a room for $8 a night.
As soon as we registered and threw our stuff in the room we took off for the1st Jar Field. There were 334 jars at this site which were carved from boulders using a chisel and hammer. There are believed to have been made between 500 BC and 500 AD as vessels for elaborate death rituals. The dead were placed in the urns until the body decomposed before being cremated. We walked down to the cave where the cremations were done. You might wonder if you've seen one jar field haven't you seen them all? In a way yes but I liked the 3rd field the best because it was so much fun getting to it. We had to walk across an old bamboo bridge, walk on a narrow path alo9ng rice patties, climb over bamboo fences, jump over small streams and climb a hill. It was dark by the time we got back from this one.
We went with the driver to eat when we got back to town. Joyce gets car sick so going over the mountains was two days of misery for her.
Monday, October 23, 2006
10-21 (Saturday) Luang Prabang
I left the guest house (Jaliya) early while Joyce stayed behind. I went down to the local Saturday market. It was located on a long street one street away from the Mekong. This one had the usual fruits and vegetables plus some vegetables I hadn't seen before. It had areas where people were cooking breakfast and people selling clothes. The things I saw for eating that were unusual were: moles (live), birds ( plucked and unplucked), snake (dead), chipmunk (dead), crickets (live), white puffy grub worms that live in cells similar to a wasp nest (live.) Of course the usual plucked chickens and ducks.
I forgot to say that yesterday our driver chowed down on a couple of tasty crickets before we crossed the river to the cave.
I walked along the river observing the daily life of the people then met Joyce around 9:00 and had breakfast. We walked along the main drag going in shops we hadn't been in previously. In one shop they sold the most beautiful necklaces (my weakness) but the prices were sky high ($350 US) Needless to say I walked out empty handed. Some of the other stores were just as expensive - the same thing I bought in the market for $4 they were charging $65!!
We decided to go to the museum but when we got there it was closed for lunch so we walked through the market. We ate lunch outside at the nice hotel where we had eaten the first night. It was so hot that we went back to the guest house to cool off and rest.
Around 4:30 we set out to climb to the temple where everyone goes to see the sunset. We went up the back way along a lovely tree shaded narrow path after walking through a small community. The people that go up the front way (the way we went down) had many more steps to climb than we did. The top was jammed with tourists all trying to get the perfect shot as the sun went down over Luang Prabang and the Mekong.
We went back to the night market. I took pictures of a hilltribe woman who was selling her wares. She dressed me up in some of the clothes she was selling and Joyce took our picture. Naturally she wanted me to buy something from her. I inquired about the cheap shirt I had tried on - she wanted $8. I ended up giving her $3 but it wasn't worth 50 cents. When I got it home I washed it and most of the color came out. The top fastner was broken!
We walked along the river where they had many restaurants. Some of them looked so nice with white tablecloths and twinkley lights - very romantic. We walked on and finally decided on a French Restaurant on one of the side streets. I had a glass of wine and we split chicken with lemon grass sauce. It was wonderful. We ordered sticky rice because it has been on every menu and we hadn't known what it was. We found out why it is called sticky rice - it sticks to the spoon, to the fork and to your teeth. I didn't think it had much taste. For dessert I had some sort of apple concoction with a caramel ice cream on top - to die for. Two American (Seattle) women came in and sat down next to us. They looked as old as we are but were probably younger. They were the most interesting people we have me so far on our trip bar none. They had traveled down the river on the slow boat from Kunming, China into part of Thailand then into Lao. They were going on through Lao to Cambodia to Saigon and on to Hanoi. They were both well traveled but one even more than the other - she has been EVERYWHERE! She was so interesting. The killer is that they don't mind the slow boat! We were in shock over that. We couldn't stop talking about it all night.
I left the guest house (Jaliya) early while Joyce stayed behind. I went down to the local Saturday market. It was located on a long street one street away from the Mekong. This one had the usual fruits and vegetables plus some vegetables I hadn't seen before. It had areas where people were cooking breakfast and people selling clothes. The things I saw for eating that were unusual were: moles (live), birds ( plucked and unplucked), snake (dead), chipmunk (dead), crickets (live), white puffy grub worms that live in cells similar to a wasp nest (live.) Of course the usual plucked chickens and ducks.
I forgot to say that yesterday our driver chowed down on a couple of tasty crickets before we crossed the river to the cave.
I walked along the river observing the daily life of the people then met Joyce around 9:00 and had breakfast. We walked along the main drag going in shops we hadn't been in previously. In one shop they sold the most beautiful necklaces (my weakness) but the prices were sky high ($350 US) Needless to say I walked out empty handed. Some of the other stores were just as expensive - the same thing I bought in the market for $4 they were charging $65!!
We decided to go to the museum but when we got there it was closed for lunch so we walked through the market. We ate lunch outside at the nice hotel where we had eaten the first night. It was so hot that we went back to the guest house to cool off and rest.
Around 4:30 we set out to climb to the temple where everyone goes to see the sunset. We went up the back way along a lovely tree shaded narrow path after walking through a small community. The people that go up the front way (the way we went down) had many more steps to climb than we did. The top was jammed with tourists all trying to get the perfect shot as the sun went down over Luang Prabang and the Mekong.
We went back to the night market. I took pictures of a hilltribe woman who was selling her wares. She dressed me up in some of the clothes she was selling and Joyce took our picture. Naturally she wanted me to buy something from her. I inquired about the cheap shirt I had tried on - she wanted $8. I ended up giving her $3 but it wasn't worth 50 cents. When I got it home I washed it and most of the color came out. The top fastner was broken!
We walked along the river where they had many restaurants. Some of them looked so nice with white tablecloths and twinkley lights - very romantic. We walked on and finally decided on a French Restaurant on one of the side streets. I had a glass of wine and we split chicken with lemon grass sauce. It was wonderful. We ordered sticky rice because it has been on every menu and we hadn't known what it was. We found out why it is called sticky rice - it sticks to the spoon, to the fork and to your teeth. I didn't think it had much taste. For dessert I had some sort of apple concoction with a caramel ice cream on top - to die for. Two American (Seattle) women came in and sat down next to us. They looked as old as we are but were probably younger. They were the most interesting people we have me so far on our trip bar none. They had traveled down the river on the slow boat from Kunming, China into part of Thailand then into Lao. They were going on through Lao to Cambodia to Saigon and on to Hanoi. They were both well traveled but one even more than the other - she has been EVERYWHERE! She was so interesting. The killer is that they don't mind the slow boat! We were in shock over that. We couldn't stop talking about it all night.
Friday, October 20, 2006
10-20 (Friday) Touring . . .
This morning we had an early breakfast after a restless night. Joyce couldn’t sleep because the bed and pillow were terrible. Both of our bottom sheets came off during the night!
We hired a guy to take us to a cave where there are over 5,000 Buddhas. We could either go by slow boat or road. We weren’t about to get back on the slow boat for another two hours. On our way to the cave we stopped at Whiskey Village so named because they make a lot of whiskey there. They have a huge still and they put some of the whiskey in bottles with snakes or scorpions. They had little cobras and other snakes in the bottles. Joyce bought a purse from some woman for $3 then it blew out of the truck before we got to the cave. We didn’t see it blow out until it was too late.
When we arrived, the cave was across the river so we had to take a very small wooden boat across. The cave was interesting. Then we walked up 226 steps to the top of the mountain to see a second cave. When we got back across the river in our boat we were headed back to our truck walking past all the souvenir stands. Some woman held up the purse Joyce bought at Whiskey Village. Joyce and I were so happy that someone had found it. Our happiness was short lived. The woman wanted to sell it back to Joyce for more than she paid for it. NO way.
We drove back to Luang Prabang and had lunch.
We had our same driver pick us up in an hour and this time he took us to a very famous waterfall. It was breathtaking. We hiked up to the top of it. I was still in my flip flops because of my toe so it was hard going. I fell once. They have an animal rescue facility out there. There is a tiger in one enclosure and Asian bears in another. These are or were babies that had been rescued after their mothers were poached. Brad, someone said the bears were Sun Bears. Did the one that chased you have a white V on its chest?
A guy from Ireland who had bicycled three hours out to the waterfall got a ride back in our truck. It turned out he was staying in our same guest house. He is traveling with three of his buddies for two years. They have just been on the road for 7 weeks. Two of his friends got water in their eyes when they were on the slow boat (the day before we came in.) He said both guy’s eyes are very swollen and grotesque. I asked it they had been to a doctor and he said they couldn’t find one. They went to the local pharmacy and got drops to put in their eyes. He said they are a little better.
Joyce and I started off for town when we got back. We were going to climb to the top of a very tall hill where there is a pagoda to see the sunset. We were part way there when I discovered that I have a big blister between my toes from my new flip flops. I decided I’d better go back to the hotel and doctor my toe before it gets infected. I’m hoping to be able to get back into my tennis shoes tomorrow.
This morning we had an early breakfast after a restless night. Joyce couldn’t sleep because the bed and pillow were terrible. Both of our bottom sheets came off during the night!
We hired a guy to take us to a cave where there are over 5,000 Buddhas. We could either go by slow boat or road. We weren’t about to get back on the slow boat for another two hours. On our way to the cave we stopped at Whiskey Village so named because they make a lot of whiskey there. They have a huge still and they put some of the whiskey in bottles with snakes or scorpions. They had little cobras and other snakes in the bottles. Joyce bought a purse from some woman for $3 then it blew out of the truck before we got to the cave. We didn’t see it blow out until it was too late.
When we arrived, the cave was across the river so we had to take a very small wooden boat across. The cave was interesting. Then we walked up 226 steps to the top of the mountain to see a second cave. When we got back across the river in our boat we were headed back to our truck walking past all the souvenir stands. Some woman held up the purse Joyce bought at Whiskey Village. Joyce and I were so happy that someone had found it. Our happiness was short lived. The woman wanted to sell it back to Joyce for more than she paid for it. NO way.
We drove back to Luang Prabang and had lunch.
We had our same driver pick us up in an hour and this time he took us to a very famous waterfall. It was breathtaking. We hiked up to the top of it. I was still in my flip flops because of my toe so it was hard going. I fell once. They have an animal rescue facility out there. There is a tiger in one enclosure and Asian bears in another. These are or were babies that had been rescued after their mothers were poached. Brad, someone said the bears were Sun Bears. Did the one that chased you have a white V on its chest?
A guy from Ireland who had bicycled three hours out to the waterfall got a ride back in our truck. It turned out he was staying in our same guest house. He is traveling with three of his buddies for two years. They have just been on the road for 7 weeks. Two of his friends got water in their eyes when they were on the slow boat (the day before we came in.) He said both guy’s eyes are very swollen and grotesque. I asked it they had been to a doctor and he said they couldn’t find one. They went to the local pharmacy and got drops to put in their eyes. He said they are a little better.
Joyce and I started off for town when we got back. We were going to climb to the top of a very tall hill where there is a pagoda to see the sunset. We were part way there when I discovered that I have a big blister between my toes from my new flip flops. I decided I’d better go back to the hotel and doctor my toe before it gets infected. I’m hoping to be able to get back into my tennis shoes tomorrow.
19-19 (Thursday) Luang Prabang
We got up early and had breakfast at our hotel before heading out. We took a tuk tuk to town to look over a couple more guest houses before our move. We ran into the Chiang Mai couple again, He is originally from Jacksonville (the 2nd one we’ve met from there.) They have been traveling together for 10 years! I asked him if he was on Social Security but he said, “no” he’s only 53. He looks much older. They have been around the world four times. He used to be an optical engineer and she’s from Spain. She taught Spainish in Calif where he was working. He sold his house, his business, everything and they have been traveling ever since. They are thinking of going to Chili from here. They usually stay in a place 4 to 6 months. Very interesting couple.
We decided on a guest house we saw yesterday. We went back to the empty hotel and moved our stuff.
We walked downtown to talk to people about other tours, then had lunch. We went into an internet during the heat of the day, back to the guest house to do laundry and put some things away. We went back to the night market and paid for a trip to the Plain of Jars on Sunday.
I love this country and the people.
We got up early and had breakfast at our hotel before heading out. We took a tuk tuk to town to look over a couple more guest houses before our move. We ran into the Chiang Mai couple again, He is originally from Jacksonville (the 2nd one we’ve met from there.) They have been traveling together for 10 years! I asked him if he was on Social Security but he said, “no” he’s only 53. He looks much older. They have been around the world four times. He used to be an optical engineer and she’s from Spain. She taught Spainish in Calif where he was working. He sold his house, his business, everything and they have been traveling ever since. They are thinking of going to Chili from here. They usually stay in a place 4 to 6 months. Very interesting couple.
We decided on a guest house we saw yesterday. We went back to the empty hotel and moved our stuff.
We walked downtown to talk to people about other tours, then had lunch. We went into an internet during the heat of the day, back to the guest house to do laundry and put some things away. We went back to the night market and paid for a trip to the Plain of Jars on Sunday.
I love this country and the people.
10-18 (Wednesday) The African Queen . . .
All the electric in the community went out at 11:30 last night so we were without our wonderful fan. It actually got very cool during the night.
It was still off when the rooster woke us up at 5:30. The hotel staff fixed breakfast over a charcoal fire. I toasted my own Baggett. The porters were waiting outside our room by 7:00. They liked last night’s tips! We loaded them up and headed to the boat by 78:00 for our 9:00 departure. We gave them each $2 US. That was a fortune but well worth it to us. Today we had a different boat - yesterday we had the Queen Mary today the African Queen. Both boats were equipped to hold around 70 people but they crammed 92 of us on plus the crew and locals going to who know where. In the very front around the captain’s wheel they shoved 10 people plus three crew. The passengers could lean against the side of the boat but their legs had to be either folded or stuck out in front of them. We had the same wooden benches to sit on but no padding like yesterday. Today the benches weren’t bolted to the floor so they could be slightly adjusted. Each one had a wooden slat across the bottom that you cold use as a foot rest.
Cruising down the river . . .
We see elephants working at a log camp, more white water to go through, whirlpools galore.
Cruising down the river . . .
Now it starts to thunder, now it starts to sprinkle, now it is torrential rain. We pull down the tarps on the sides of the boat while our new captain (the hilltribe captain got off about 2 hours ago) heads for shelter. Next to the seat in front of us the tarp is torn and those people are getting soaked. The people right across the aisle from us have NO tarp at all – they are drenched! Lovely cruise! All first class! The rain finally subsides and we continue cruising. The scenery is breathtaking – jungle on both sides and mountains. Sometimes the mountains are very close – we are a speck in the water floating between them, at other times they are farther away but always with us. This country is beautiful. People say Vietnam is beautiful and it is but they need to come here and see this place.
It get to be 3:00 and everyone begins looking for Luang Prabang. We’re all sick of the boat. We begin to see signs of a city . . . more boat traffic, a TV or radio tower and finally . . . a road with cars! YEAH! We endured!
We dock at the bottom of a paved incline. The backpackers start grabbing their stuff. The crew is tossing out the luggage. We’re thinking – “How are we going to get our bags to the top of the hill?” There is a barricade, no tuk tuks or trucks are allowed to come down to the boat. We feel despair. Finally someone asks if we need help. We agree to pay 20 bhat (50 cents) for 2 guys to haul our bags to the top of the hill. We get in a truck/tuk tuk with another couple. We agree on $3 (down from $5.) The driver said our hotel was a long way and he was right. It was far out of town. We drove up to a BEAUTIFUL hotel that looked like a villa. Someone working on the grounds came over to help with our luggage. Instinct told me to show him the name of our hotel. He shook his head, “No.” He told the driver where to take us. It was still a distance from town. When we checked in the girls at the desk acted totally surprised to see us. They got out a big book and found our reservation. They took us up to the room – no elevator. I went downstairs to do something. When I went upstairs again I hear Joyce saying, “This isn’t going to work.” She was right, there was only on big bed in the room. We told them we had to have two beds. No problem – we appeared to be the only two staying in the whole hotel! After we threw down our stuff we ran out and got a tuk tuk to take us into town. We had guest house cards so we stopped off to try to find a place to move to in the morning. We found one we both liked for $12 but decided on a $15 room at the same place since it was bigger. We walked to town. We saw a real nice hotel and we went in to inquire about their rooms - $60 – forget it! We had dinner there for $3 each and it was delicious!
We walked to the night market where they had fabulous silks and other interesting things. We went on into town and inquired about some tours at different agencies.
We ran into a couple we met in Chiang Mai. We chatted with them for a long time and then took a tuk tuk back to our empty hotel.
When I was on the boat I kept feeling like I was sitting on a rough piece of wood and that I was getting a sliver in by butt or I was sitting on a nail. When I took off my shorts tonight I assume it was a nail because it tore a BIG hole in the seat of my shorts.
All the electric in the community went out at 11:30 last night so we were without our wonderful fan. It actually got very cool during the night.
It was still off when the rooster woke us up at 5:30. The hotel staff fixed breakfast over a charcoal fire. I toasted my own Baggett. The porters were waiting outside our room by 7:00. They liked last night’s tips! We loaded them up and headed to the boat by 78:00 for our 9:00 departure. We gave them each $2 US. That was a fortune but well worth it to us. Today we had a different boat - yesterday we had the Queen Mary today the African Queen. Both boats were equipped to hold around 70 people but they crammed 92 of us on plus the crew and locals going to who know where. In the very front around the captain’s wheel they shoved 10 people plus three crew. The passengers could lean against the side of the boat but their legs had to be either folded or stuck out in front of them. We had the same wooden benches to sit on but no padding like yesterday. Today the benches weren’t bolted to the floor so they could be slightly adjusted. Each one had a wooden slat across the bottom that you cold use as a foot rest.
Cruising down the river . . .
We see elephants working at a log camp, more white water to go through, whirlpools galore.
Cruising down the river . . .
Now it starts to thunder, now it starts to sprinkle, now it is torrential rain. We pull down the tarps on the sides of the boat while our new captain (the hilltribe captain got off about 2 hours ago) heads for shelter. Next to the seat in front of us the tarp is torn and those people are getting soaked. The people right across the aisle from us have NO tarp at all – they are drenched! Lovely cruise! All first class! The rain finally subsides and we continue cruising. The scenery is breathtaking – jungle on both sides and mountains. Sometimes the mountains are very close – we are a speck in the water floating between them, at other times they are farther away but always with us. This country is beautiful. People say Vietnam is beautiful and it is but they need to come here and see this place.
It get to be 3:00 and everyone begins looking for Luang Prabang. We’re all sick of the boat. We begin to see signs of a city . . . more boat traffic, a TV or radio tower and finally . . . a road with cars! YEAH! We endured!
We dock at the bottom of a paved incline. The backpackers start grabbing their stuff. The crew is tossing out the luggage. We’re thinking – “How are we going to get our bags to the top of the hill?” There is a barricade, no tuk tuks or trucks are allowed to come down to the boat. We feel despair. Finally someone asks if we need help. We agree to pay 20 bhat (50 cents) for 2 guys to haul our bags to the top of the hill. We get in a truck/tuk tuk with another couple. We agree on $3 (down from $5.) The driver said our hotel was a long way and he was right. It was far out of town. We drove up to a BEAUTIFUL hotel that looked like a villa. Someone working on the grounds came over to help with our luggage. Instinct told me to show him the name of our hotel. He shook his head, “No.” He told the driver where to take us. It was still a distance from town. When we checked in the girls at the desk acted totally surprised to see us. They got out a big book and found our reservation. They took us up to the room – no elevator. I went downstairs to do something. When I went upstairs again I hear Joyce saying, “This isn’t going to work.” She was right, there was only on big bed in the room. We told them we had to have two beds. No problem – we appeared to be the only two staying in the whole hotel! After we threw down our stuff we ran out and got a tuk tuk to take us into town. We had guest house cards so we stopped off to try to find a place to move to in the morning. We found one we both liked for $12 but decided on a $15 room at the same place since it was bigger. We walked to town. We saw a real nice hotel and we went in to inquire about their rooms - $60 – forget it! We had dinner there for $3 each and it was delicious!
We walked to the night market where they had fabulous silks and other interesting things. We went on into town and inquired about some tours at different agencies.
We ran into a couple we met in Chiang Mai. We chatted with them for a long time and then took a tuk tuk back to our empty hotel.
When I was on the boat I kept feeling like I was sitting on a rough piece of wood and that I was getting a sliver in by butt or I was sitting on a nail. When I took off my shorts tonight I assume it was a nail because it tore a BIG hole in the seat of my shorts.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
10-17 (Tuesday) Cruising Down the River
I woke up sick as a dog with stomach problems. Joyce went on to breakfast without me because I couldn't leave the room until later. I think it was the "oj" from last night that made me sick. I was finally able to eat some eggs and toast with tea. I drank LOTS of water.
Last night's agent came to pick us up at 9:30. He had our passports and visas. He loaded everything in his truck and drove us to the river. First they put all our bags in the long boat we were going to take across the river (Mekong Delta) from the Thailand side to the Lao side. We got in with other local passengers and off we went.
There was a guy to meet us on the Lao side. He told us to go to the passport control. About this time I was getting sick again. I had to use the squat at the border crossing. It wasn't real clean but it didn't smell. I had taken some of Joyce's Cipro and 2 Peptos.
They loaded our bags on top of a truck and crammed 10 of us into the back. Thank goodness we were the first two in because the fumes from the back of the truck were about to gag everyone. We were drived to another river location not far away. We got a flat tire just as we arrived. Joyce and I feel about our luggage like Dinki and I did . . . we're ready to pay any amount to have someone carry it for us.
Many people got on the boat ahead of us. After our guy finished taking care of all our passprts AGAIN we were able to get on. The first group had all grabbed one wooden bench seat to themselves. I went back 4 seats and told the girl I was sorry but I'd be sitting with her. She immediately moved to the seat ahead with her friend so Joyce and I were able to sit together. The hard wooden bench we were sitting on did have a very thin cushion on it. I whipped out my tape and measured the depth of the seat (front to back.) It was 11 inches. From the back of the seat to the front of the one in front of us was 12 1/4 inches. This boat ride made coach in a plane look like the lap of luxury.
There were 70 seats on the boat and they stuffed over 90 of us on. The luggage was stacked to the roof in the front and back. The boat was open on the sides but had a covering.
The captain was a hilltribe guy. He wore a loose weave blue cotton tunic and pants. A multi colored sash mostly red. A silver necklace, siver bracelets and a large silver ring. Over his shoulder he had a colorful bag like the hilltribes use. He had a silver knife stuck in his waistband and a baseball cap on his head!
We didn't depart until 11:00. It didn't take long to figure out we were in for 7 hours of misery. At least my stomach medicine had started to kick in. I don't know how the men on the boat stood it because there was NO leg room and they have longer legs than we do. Some of them began sitting on the sides of the boat. I think still others went to the roof.
I have been wearing the same shirt everyday since we were at Inle Lake in Myanmar. You will be happy to know that I wash it every night. It is driving Joyce nuts - at first she would just hint about it but lately she has offered to buy me a new one, has started telling me how bad it looks (it doesn not!) Today she said I was worse than a bag lady with my shirt and wearing 2 hats - my baseball cap with a coolie hat on top! Of course none of this bothers me and I don't pay any attention to her. I did break down and tell her that the 1st time I went to Europe I wore a dress 21 days straight. I told her my travel companions kept trying to hide it from me. Joyce has already said she's going to hide or throw my shirt away. It looks great so I'm not getting rid of it!
We were riding up river with 3 canasters of gass about6 feet from our seats.
We stopped to let off some locals and pick up one or two. One was a man with 3 huge sacks of rice.
One of the girls in front of me was very smart and went to the front where the luggage was - there was a space to sit down there and you could stretch out your legs. She made the big mistake of getting up and going back to sit with her friend. As soon as she did I pounced on that space. I stayed there until Joyce came and took my place. We held onto that spot until we stopped for the evening at 5:00. We were thrilled to be stopping that early. We thought it was going to be 6 or 7:00.
We pulled into a mud flat that led to mud steps that went straight up a very high bank. Thank goodness there were boys there wanting to make money. There was NO way we could have gotten our bags up that hill, we could barely get ourselves up it.
We walked to a hotel that was owned by the same group as where we stayed the night before. We gave our porters 60 bhat - about $1.60. They were thrilled and so were we. We told them to be at the hotel at 8:00 the next day to carry the stuff back to the boat. They were only too happpy to do it. Tomorrow we are going to give them each $2.00 US.
The room was nicer in a way than the night before. It had very clean blue tile on the floors. The bathroom was the same set-up except that there was NO hot water. Also at thisplace we only had a bottom sheet and a thin blanket to top. Last night we had an A/C for what it was worth, tonight a fan on the ceiling. Our windows here had good screens but the edges didn't fit real tight so Joyce spent a long time putting duct tape all around them to keep out the bugs.
We went to the hotel restaurant jand had really greasy french fries for dinner. They were so greasy that I wiped each one off with my one ply, half sheet toilet paper napkin!
My stomach was so much better and my toe was feeling a little better too. I still had to wear my flip flops because of my toe so that made it hard to walk through muddy places and up steep enbankments.
We took cold showers which actually felt pretty good and got ready for another enjoyable 6 hours or crusing !
I woke up sick as a dog with stomach problems. Joyce went on to breakfast without me because I couldn't leave the room until later. I think it was the "oj" from last night that made me sick. I was finally able to eat some eggs and toast with tea. I drank LOTS of water.
Last night's agent came to pick us up at 9:30. He had our passports and visas. He loaded everything in his truck and drove us to the river. First they put all our bags in the long boat we were going to take across the river (Mekong Delta) from the Thailand side to the Lao side. We got in with other local passengers and off we went.
There was a guy to meet us on the Lao side. He told us to go to the passport control. About this time I was getting sick again. I had to use the squat at the border crossing. It wasn't real clean but it didn't smell. I had taken some of Joyce's Cipro and 2 Peptos.
They loaded our bags on top of a truck and crammed 10 of us into the back. Thank goodness we were the first two in because the fumes from the back of the truck were about to gag everyone. We were drived to another river location not far away. We got a flat tire just as we arrived. Joyce and I feel about our luggage like Dinki and I did . . . we're ready to pay any amount to have someone carry it for us.
Many people got on the boat ahead of us. After our guy finished taking care of all our passprts AGAIN we were able to get on. The first group had all grabbed one wooden bench seat to themselves. I went back 4 seats and told the girl I was sorry but I'd be sitting with her. She immediately moved to the seat ahead with her friend so Joyce and I were able to sit together. The hard wooden bench we were sitting on did have a very thin cushion on it. I whipped out my tape and measured the depth of the seat (front to back.) It was 11 inches. From the back of the seat to the front of the one in front of us was 12 1/4 inches. This boat ride made coach in a plane look like the lap of luxury.
There were 70 seats on the boat and they stuffed over 90 of us on. The luggage was stacked to the roof in the front and back. The boat was open on the sides but had a covering.
The captain was a hilltribe guy. He wore a loose weave blue cotton tunic and pants. A multi colored sash mostly red. A silver necklace, siver bracelets and a large silver ring. Over his shoulder he had a colorful bag like the hilltribes use. He had a silver knife stuck in his waistband and a baseball cap on his head!
We didn't depart until 11:00. It didn't take long to figure out we were in for 7 hours of misery. At least my stomach medicine had started to kick in. I don't know how the men on the boat stood it because there was NO leg room and they have longer legs than we do. Some of them began sitting on the sides of the boat. I think still others went to the roof.
I have been wearing the same shirt everyday since we were at Inle Lake in Myanmar. You will be happy to know that I wash it every night. It is driving Joyce nuts - at first she would just hint about it but lately she has offered to buy me a new one, has started telling me how bad it looks (it doesn not!) Today she said I was worse than a bag lady with my shirt and wearing 2 hats - my baseball cap with a coolie hat on top! Of course none of this bothers me and I don't pay any attention to her. I did break down and tell her that the 1st time I went to Europe I wore a dress 21 days straight. I told her my travel companions kept trying to hide it from me. Joyce has already said she's going to hide or throw my shirt away. It looks great so I'm not getting rid of it!
We were riding up river with 3 canasters of gass about6 feet from our seats.
We stopped to let off some locals and pick up one or two. One was a man with 3 huge sacks of rice.
One of the girls in front of me was very smart and went to the front where the luggage was - there was a space to sit down there and you could stretch out your legs. She made the big mistake of getting up and going back to sit with her friend. As soon as she did I pounced on that space. I stayed there until Joyce came and took my place. We held onto that spot until we stopped for the evening at 5:00. We were thrilled to be stopping that early. We thought it was going to be 6 or 7:00.
We pulled into a mud flat that led to mud steps that went straight up a very high bank. Thank goodness there were boys there wanting to make money. There was NO way we could have gotten our bags up that hill, we could barely get ourselves up it.
We walked to a hotel that was owned by the same group as where we stayed the night before. We gave our porters 60 bhat - about $1.60. They were thrilled and so were we. We told them to be at the hotel at 8:00 the next day to carry the stuff back to the boat. They were only too happpy to do it. Tomorrow we are going to give them each $2.00 US.
The room was nicer in a way than the night before. It had very clean blue tile on the floors. The bathroom was the same set-up except that there was NO hot water. Also at thisplace we only had a bottom sheet and a thin blanket to top. Last night we had an A/C for what it was worth, tonight a fan on the ceiling. Our windows here had good screens but the edges didn't fit real tight so Joyce spent a long time putting duct tape all around them to keep out the bugs.
We went to the hotel restaurant jand had really greasy french fries for dinner. They were so greasy that I wiped each one off with my one ply, half sheet toilet paper napkin!
My stomach was so much better and my toe was feeling a little better too. I still had to wear my flip flops because of my toe so that made it hard to walk through muddy places and up steep enbankments.
We took cold showers which actually felt pretty good and got ready for another enjoyable 6 hours or crusing !
10-16 (Monday)
We took a red cab downtown and discovered a new shopping mall. This always happens when we're ready to leave a place. I cased a $100 check and Joyce bought a luggage strap.
Mr. Patrick (our travel agent) picked us up at noon and drove us to the bus station. He had gotten us seats in the very front of the bus. It ws a vey narrow bench seat for two. The other side was a bench seat for three. It remeinded me of the bus in Uganda. We were lucky to hve the seats he got us. Another young driver! We whizzed up and down the mountain roads. We stopped several times for a bathroom break. Believe it or not the squats were bearable. They didn't stink. We would stop whenever people wanted so they could get off in the countryside. Seven hours later we pulled into Chiang Khong. No one was there jto meet us but some girl who spoke excellent English was there tyring to sell her guesthouse. We decided to sign on with her. We had our suitcases on her truck with all the other backpackers when some guy came up looking for us. He said for us to get in a tuk tuk which would take us to our hotel. We did. Our room was very basic - two beds, TV and an A/C! The bathroom was one of those with a handle hanging on the wall for the shower. You could sit on the toilet and take a shower. The travel agent rep. came and said we had to go to dinner because it was included! We went even though we didn't want to. They gave us fruit which was fine: banana, watermellon and pineapple. I had a couple sips out of the "oj" they gave us. It tasted funny. We paid the travel agent rep $48 for a visa to Lao. $38 for the visa and $10 for the bribe so we wouldn't have to wait in line with everyone else the next morning to get it. When we got back to the room I took a shower and went to bed so I would be ready to go up river the next morning.
We took a red cab downtown and discovered a new shopping mall. This always happens when we're ready to leave a place. I cased a $100 check and Joyce bought a luggage strap.
Mr. Patrick (our travel agent) picked us up at noon and drove us to the bus station. He had gotten us seats in the very front of the bus. It ws a vey narrow bench seat for two. The other side was a bench seat for three. It remeinded me of the bus in Uganda. We were lucky to hve the seats he got us. Another young driver! We whizzed up and down the mountain roads. We stopped several times for a bathroom break. Believe it or not the squats were bearable. They didn't stink. We would stop whenever people wanted so they could get off in the countryside. Seven hours later we pulled into Chiang Khong. No one was there jto meet us but some girl who spoke excellent English was there tyring to sell her guesthouse. We decided to sign on with her. We had our suitcases on her truck with all the other backpackers when some guy came up looking for us. He said for us to get in a tuk tuk which would take us to our hotel. We did. Our room was very basic - two beds, TV and an A/C! The bathroom was one of those with a handle hanging on the wall for the shower. You could sit on the toilet and take a shower. The travel agent rep. came and said we had to go to dinner because it was included! We went even though we didn't want to. They gave us fruit which was fine: banana, watermellon and pineapple. I had a couple sips out of the "oj" they gave us. It tasted funny. We paid the travel agent rep $48 for a visa to Lao. $38 for the visa and $10 for the bribe so we wouldn't have to wait in line with everyone else the next morning to get it. When we got back to the room I took a shower and went to bed so I would be ready to go up river the next morning.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
10-16 Monday Thank you
Thank you Roxy and Gail for telling me what to do about my toe. I did find some epsom salt last night but then the hotel was out of hot water so it didn't do any good to soak my toe. Today I have done everything you two told me.
Last night we went back to the local night market where we were yesterday afternoon. I can't let a painful toe slow me down. It was packed with people and many more streets and stalls had opened up. We saw all kinds of good stuff to buy but where are we going to put it? We know we'll be buying in Lao! We got another massage. Joyce had another foot one and I had the neck, shoulders, arms, hands and head. Fabulous.
When we got back to the hotel we tried to repack everything. Somehow we got it all in.
This morning we went to one of the shopping areas to get a strap for the new suitcase Joyce bought here in Chiang Mai. We also went to the bank and I cashed more money! I have got to quit shopping. We also had the bank break down some of our 1,000 bills. We know we won't be able to get change for them in Lao. We just heard from Wired Destinations about 5 minutes ago. We have a room for the first night in Laung Prabang. We're going to try to get something cheaper when we get there.
We're waiting for Mr. Patrick from the travel agency to pick us up and take us to the bus which will drive us about 5-6 hours where we will spend the night before picking up the slow boat the next morning.
Thank you Roxy and Gail for telling me what to do about my toe. I did find some epsom salt last night but then the hotel was out of hot water so it didn't do any good to soak my toe. Today I have done everything you two told me.
Last night we went back to the local night market where we were yesterday afternoon. I can't let a painful toe slow me down. It was packed with people and many more streets and stalls had opened up. We saw all kinds of good stuff to buy but where are we going to put it? We know we'll be buying in Lao! We got another massage. Joyce had another foot one and I had the neck, shoulders, arms, hands and head. Fabulous.
When we got back to the hotel we tried to repack everything. Somehow we got it all in.
This morning we went to one of the shopping areas to get a strap for the new suitcase Joyce bought here in Chiang Mai. We also went to the bank and I cashed more money! I have got to quit shopping. We also had the bank break down some of our 1,000 bills. We know we won't be able to get change for them in Lao. We just heard from Wired Destinations about 5 minutes ago. We have a room for the first night in Laung Prabang. We're going to try to get something cheaper when we get there.
We're waiting for Mr. Patrick from the travel agency to pick us up and take us to the bus which will drive us about 5-6 hours where we will spend the night before picking up the slow boat the next morning.
11-15 (Sunday)
This morning we when to a chemist shop. I got some pills for sleep although I'm currently doing much better. The guy assured me they would keep me asleep for eight hours. Promises, promises.
It was fairly cool when we started out this morning and we only walked on the shady side of the streets. We went back to "Jacksonville's" store and I bought a really neat necklace that came from the hilltribes. It was expensive but I wanted it! We had lunch then decided to go to Starbucks for dessert. We were on our way back to the hotel because by the time we came out of "Jacksonville's" store my big toe was starting to hurt. I could hardly walk so I wanted to get my tennis shoes off and put on my flip flops. While we were eating our dessert we looked across the street and saw the locals setting up for the promised local market. We were thrilled. I decided to forget about my pain and limp as best as I could to the market. We stayed there for hours and I bought so many things. We ended the market shopping with an hour's foot massage. I told the guy to be careful of my toe - I think my toenail is ingrown. He wanted to cut it but I said, "No." I didn't want him using dirty insturnments on me and causing more problems. We had cashed checks earlier in the day, now I'm going to have to go back and cash some more because I spent so much money. We can use our bhats in Lao so it won't matter if I have too many. Their (Lao) money is like Myanmar money, it isn't worth anything.
We took a red taxi back to the hotel since I couldn't walk. We unloaded our loot, had "show and tell" and now we're at the net. We plan to go back to the market tonight when it is cooler. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do about my toe? If I could get some ebson salt I think that would help to soak it but I'm not hopeful of getting it. Suggestions? Help!
This morning we when to a chemist shop. I got some pills for sleep although I'm currently doing much better. The guy assured me they would keep me asleep for eight hours. Promises, promises.
It was fairly cool when we started out this morning and we only walked on the shady side of the streets. We went back to "Jacksonville's" store and I bought a really neat necklace that came from the hilltribes. It was expensive but I wanted it! We had lunch then decided to go to Starbucks for dessert. We were on our way back to the hotel because by the time we came out of "Jacksonville's" store my big toe was starting to hurt. I could hardly walk so I wanted to get my tennis shoes off and put on my flip flops. While we were eating our dessert we looked across the street and saw the locals setting up for the promised local market. We were thrilled. I decided to forget about my pain and limp as best as I could to the market. We stayed there for hours and I bought so many things. We ended the market shopping with an hour's foot massage. I told the guy to be careful of my toe - I think my toenail is ingrown. He wanted to cut it but I said, "No." I didn't want him using dirty insturnments on me and causing more problems. We had cashed checks earlier in the day, now I'm going to have to go back and cash some more because I spent so much money. We can use our bhats in Lao so it won't matter if I have too many. Their (Lao) money is like Myanmar money, it isn't worth anything.
We took a red taxi back to the hotel since I couldn't walk. We unloaded our loot, had "show and tell" and now we're at the net. We plan to go back to the market tonight when it is cooler. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do about my toe? If I could get some ebson salt I think that would help to soak it but I'm not hopeful of getting it. Suggestions? Help!
11-14 (Saturday)
We didn't get up until 7 a.m. Wonderful! Breakfast (that came with the room ) was wonderful - scrambled eggs, pancakes, fruit, rice, all kinds of bread and toast. We met some guy and his mother (from Calif) last night on the way to the night market. They were at breakfast. He was asking us about where to go and what to see in Asia. His mother is going home in another couple of weeks but he is staying until May.
After breakfast we talked to a travel agent about taking the slow boat (not to China but ) to Luang Prabang in Lao. We think we're going to leave Monday. We also made plane reservations to fly from Lao to Hanoi on the 25th of this month.
The market that was suppose to be so wonderful? Well, we never found it and the locals never heard of it! BUT . . . they assure us that tomorrow (Sunday) there is a wonderful local market . . . we'll see.
Tonight we did something different . . . we had dinner in a restaurant!
It is really hot here and it totally saps my energy. I was exhausted when we got back to the hotel.
We didn't get up until 7 a.m. Wonderful! Breakfast (that came with the room ) was wonderful - scrambled eggs, pancakes, fruit, rice, all kinds of bread and toast. We met some guy and his mother (from Calif) last night on the way to the night market. They were at breakfast. He was asking us about where to go and what to see in Asia. His mother is going home in another couple of weeks but he is staying until May.
After breakfast we talked to a travel agent about taking the slow boat (not to China but ) to Luang Prabang in Lao. We think we're going to leave Monday. We also made plane reservations to fly from Lao to Hanoi on the 25th of this month.
The market that was suppose to be so wonderful? Well, we never found it and the locals never heard of it! BUT . . . they assure us that tomorrow (Sunday) there is a wonderful local market . . . we'll see.
Tonight we did something different . . . we had dinner in a restaurant!
It is really hot here and it totally saps my energy. I was exhausted when we got back to the hotel.
11-13 (Friday) Still on the train to Chiang Mai . . .
Still on the train. Last night we tried to put up the bunk bed and it was too heavy for the two of us to do so I went and got one of the attendants to help us. He was a skinny guy who came in and almost with one arm threw that thing into position! Then he put on the mattress pads and put sheets on the bed and pillowcases. He gave us a blanket. WOW! I had the upper bunk, Joyce the lower. This morning (wouldn't you know) we discovered there is a western toilet right around the corner from the squat. It was also stainless steel and had a shower in it. Someone must have taken a shower just before I went in because the entire room was wet. I don't know how anyone could shower and keep their clothes dry - the place wasn't big enough to turn around in.
It turned out to be a longer journey than we thought. We anticipated getting in around 6:30 a.m. but it was actually 11:00 (17 hours.) We didn't mind because it gave us time to sleep, relax, walk around and read. I mostly slept. After the pot holes in Myanmar my body need recovery time.
When we got into Chiang Mai we took a taxi to the hotel for 80 bhat ($2.18) Our room was really nice - we're thrilled. We have been using Wired Destinations to book most of our hotels on the internet before we arrive.
After throwing our stuff in the room we set off on foot to find a place to eat and have a look around. We ended up at some Italian place eating pizza (Joyce) and brushetta (Nancy.) We walked around town poking in shops. One guy from Jacksonville had a great shop with all kinds of things from China, Tibet, Burma and the various hilltribes.
We went into several places to ask them about a tour for the next day. Then we found out that there is a big local market in the morning that is suppose took be better than the night market. We decided to delay the tour another day and go to the local market in the morning. Now we're beginning to think of heading to Lao.
After having dinner of cheese and crackers in the room we departed for the Night Bazaar. It was as good if not better than I remembered it. I bought several things - my suitcase is beginning to fill up.
Still on the train. Last night we tried to put up the bunk bed and it was too heavy for the two of us to do so I went and got one of the attendants to help us. He was a skinny guy who came in and almost with one arm threw that thing into position! Then he put on the mattress pads and put sheets on the bed and pillowcases. He gave us a blanket. WOW! I had the upper bunk, Joyce the lower. This morning (wouldn't you know) we discovered there is a western toilet right around the corner from the squat. It was also stainless steel and had a shower in it. Someone must have taken a shower just before I went in because the entire room was wet. I don't know how anyone could shower and keep their clothes dry - the place wasn't big enough to turn around in.
It turned out to be a longer journey than we thought. We anticipated getting in around 6:30 a.m. but it was actually 11:00 (17 hours.) We didn't mind because it gave us time to sleep, relax, walk around and read. I mostly slept. After the pot holes in Myanmar my body need recovery time.
When we got into Chiang Mai we took a taxi to the hotel for 80 bhat ($2.18) Our room was really nice - we're thrilled. We have been using Wired Destinations to book most of our hotels on the internet before we arrive.
After throwing our stuff in the room we set off on foot to find a place to eat and have a look around. We ended up at some Italian place eating pizza (Joyce) and brushetta (Nancy.) We walked around town poking in shops. One guy from Jacksonville had a great shop with all kinds of things from China, Tibet, Burma and the various hilltribes.
We went into several places to ask them about a tour for the next day. Then we found out that there is a big local market in the morning that is suppose took be better than the night market. We decided to delay the tour another day and go to the local market in the morning. Now we're beginning to think of heading to Lao.
After having dinner of cheese and crackers in the room we departed for the Night Bazaar. It was as good if not better than I remembered it. I bought several things - my suitcase is beginning to fill up.
Saturday, October 14, 2006
11-12 (Thursday)
After breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. When I got back to the hotel U Tin Wint was already there talking to Joyce and waiting to take us to the airport. He seemed sorry to see us go.
We had to wait for the counter to open before we could pay our departure fee of $10 US each. We looked around in some of the gift shops then went to the "lounge" for free drinks and cakes while we waited on the plane.
We met a German doctor who actually was born and raised in Myanmar. She was back in Myanmar trying to set up some clinics and other ways of helping her people. Her husband (a German) is an eye doctor. The people are so poor that they can't afford medicine but even if they could there is none to be had.
We saw an English newspaper that said 60,000 people had signed a petition to free Aung San Suu Kyi. Those people must have been very brave to sign
Yesterday at lunch I asked May Thu why foreigners aren't allowed to go north of Mandalay. She said that's where they grow all the opium and the government doesn't want foreigners seeing it. Mostly it's grown in the Golden Triangle area. You can go to visit the Naga tribes but I think only at their New Year's festival. They were headhunters for many years. During WWII when our pilots were flying the hump their chief told them to protect the pilots and not take any heads. If you go for the festival it is expensive and you have to sleep in a "camp" Be prepared for it to be cold at night. Sounds like Irian Jaya conditions. I would love to attend this some day if I can ever scrape together the money.
Everyone in Myanmar hates the government. The army officers only make $50 a month so they are constantly taking bribes.
Once again we had a fabulous meal on the plane from Yangon to Bangkok. Chicken so tender you could cut it with your fork. Rice, spinach, a wonderful bean salad, red wine and bread pudding for dessert. The flight was an hour.
We got off the plane cleared customs and started looking for a cab to the train station. Some guy with long painted fingernails came up to us and wanted us to use his transportation. I had all the luggage so I told Joyce to go down and find out how much and if his transportation had a meter. He wanted 800 baht which was a little more than $20 US. Forget it. He may have thought he spotted 2 fools but it wasn't us. We got a metered cab and paid $8 US to the train station. We thought we were going to be taking the 7:30 train. When I went to the ticket window the guy said "Do you want to leave right now?" I told him we did and asked if he had any 1st class tickets left. It just so happened he did but not on the 7:30 train. Our ticket cost $36 US. We bought our ticket at 5:30 and were pulling out of the station at 6:00. We even had time to run and buy some water from a stand on the platform. Our compartment only had 2 beds. Both people sit facing the front of the train on the lower bunk. When it's bedtime the top bunk flips up. There were pillows and mattress pads on shelves hanging from the walls. We are planning to spend two nights in Chiang Mai but have NO idea where we're going after that.
After breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. When I got back to the hotel U Tin Wint was already there talking to Joyce and waiting to take us to the airport. He seemed sorry to see us go.
We had to wait for the counter to open before we could pay our departure fee of $10 US each. We looked around in some of the gift shops then went to the "lounge" for free drinks and cakes while we waited on the plane.
We met a German doctor who actually was born and raised in Myanmar. She was back in Myanmar trying to set up some clinics and other ways of helping her people. Her husband (a German) is an eye doctor. The people are so poor that they can't afford medicine but even if they could there is none to be had.
We saw an English newspaper that said 60,000 people had signed a petition to free Aung San Suu Kyi. Those people must have been very brave to sign
Yesterday at lunch I asked May Thu why foreigners aren't allowed to go north of Mandalay. She said that's where they grow all the opium and the government doesn't want foreigners seeing it. Mostly it's grown in the Golden Triangle area. You can go to visit the Naga tribes but I think only at their New Year's festival. They were headhunters for many years. During WWII when our pilots were flying the hump their chief told them to protect the pilots and not take any heads. If you go for the festival it is expensive and you have to sleep in a "camp" Be prepared for it to be cold at night. Sounds like Irian Jaya conditions. I would love to attend this some day if I can ever scrape together the money.
Everyone in Myanmar hates the government. The army officers only make $50 a month so they are constantly taking bribes.
Once again we had a fabulous meal on the plane from Yangon to Bangkok. Chicken so tender you could cut it with your fork. Rice, spinach, a wonderful bean salad, red wine and bread pudding for dessert. The flight was an hour.
We got off the plane cleared customs and started looking for a cab to the train station. Some guy with long painted fingernails came up to us and wanted us to use his transportation. I had all the luggage so I told Joyce to go down and find out how much and if his transportation had a meter. He wanted 800 baht which was a little more than $20 US. Forget it. He may have thought he spotted 2 fools but it wasn't us. We got a metered cab and paid $8 US to the train station. We thought we were going to be taking the 7:30 train. When I went to the ticket window the guy said "Do you want to leave right now?" I told him we did and asked if he had any 1st class tickets left. It just so happened he did but not on the 7:30 train. Our ticket cost $36 US. We bought our ticket at 5:30 and were pulling out of the station at 6:00. We even had time to run and buy some water from a stand on the platform. Our compartment only had 2 beds. Both people sit facing the front of the train on the lower bunk. When it's bedtime the top bunk flips up. There were pillows and mattress pads on shelves hanging from the walls. We are planning to spend two nights in Chiang Mai but have NO idea where we're going after that.
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