Friday, November 30, 2007

11-30 (Friday)

We found out this morning that the father of one of the women on the trip died last night. It's bad to be so far from home when something like that happens.

Before leaving Alexandria for Cairo we went to the Citidal, the fish market and the Egyptian Museum. Alexandrian is so much more cosmopolitan than Cairo.

We're back in Cairo now and Barbara and I have been out doing last minute shopping and just poking around and talking to the locals.

We leave tomorrow night for home.
11-29 (Thursday) Siwa to Alexandria

We left Siwa this morning and drove 7 1/2 hours to Alexandria arriving at 3 p.m. We went straight to the library which was almost more like a museum. The whole place was fantastic. We spent and hour and a half there.

We finally arrived at the Plaza Hotel exhausted. They had turned off the A/C for the winter so the rooms were hot. Fortunately we had a door that opened to the outside. In Siwa we were too cold now we're too hot!

We all went out to eat at a fish restaurant tonight. It was one of those places where you choose your own fish and they cook it up for you.
11-28 (Wednesday) Siwa

This morning I walked around town taking pictures. I saw the school bus - a donkey cart full of children!

I ran into a couple of girls from our group who where on their way to a nursery school to give out school supplies that one of the girls had brought from home. The school wouldn't let us in or take the supplies so we went to another one. We had our guide with us to do the translating. At the second school they said we could come in and give out the supplies. As we were getting them out of a bag and ready to give to the children several men burst into the school and started screaming at our guide. The screamer asked if we had taken any pictures of the children. I had but I didn't say a word. Lisa and the guide busily stuffed everything back into the bag and we departed. The guide said they didn't want "charity" and we had to have written permission to go into the school.

I went to see an old man I had seen on TV who presses olives into olive oil. He wasn't there but the old stone wheel that he turns by hand and his press were. It was interesting.

This afternoon we went on a jeep safaari. It was so much fun but also scary. We were way out in the desert. We would drive to the top of a dune and then the jeep would teeter at the top and we would go STRAIGHT down. At one place we stopped there were oyster shells and sand dollars. The entire desert was under the sea at one time. We stopped at a hot pool where a few pople from another group were soaking. To end the day the drivers bult a fire and made mint tea for everyone as we watched the sun set.
11-27 (Tuesday) Siwa Oasis

Siwa is such an interesting place. It is out in the middle of nowhere in the western desert near the Lybian border. The streets are unpaved (dirt) and almost everyone gets around on donkey cart. There are few cars or motorcycles. You see very few women because they must get permission from their husbands to leave the house. The women are fully covered unlike some of the women in Egypt. It is a fasinating culture. I wish I could have spent more time there.

We are staying in a really cute place but there is NO heat and it gets so cold at night. We have great camel hair blankets on our beds but taking a shower is no for sissies.

We met such an interesting family today: Penny (mother) Duncan (father) and children Sasha-15 and Claudia-11 (there's also a son-10.) They are from London but have been living in Siwa for two years. They own a "villa" outside of town which is a hotel. They also own property in Sri Lanka and Romania. They spend their summers in Romania. The children (and adults) speak Arbic and Romanian. Penny has a shop in town, where we met her. Duncan was a photographer with some big newspaper in London when they decided to throw in the towel and see the world.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

11-26 (Monday)

We had three wake up calls this morning and a knock on the door. They must have thought we were really hard to get out of bed. We left on a bus at 7:00 for Siwa Oasis.

After we left the last town the scenery was mostly desert with a few camels here and there. It was an 8 hour ride to this remote oasis near the Libyan border.

We had a security guard on our bus wearing a suit and packing heat. When the wind blew his jacket open we could see the large automatic gun he was carrying. Behind the bus was a pickup truck full of security men. I don't know what all the security was about. I know they used to do that after all the tourist were killed at Luxor (or where ever) but that was years ago. The guy with the gun has been with us the whole time and so have the men from the truck. Apparently they have an agreement with the US to "protect" tourists. What ever! There is no way they can keep up with all of us as we all take off in different directions.

We have really enjoyed being in Siwa. It is very remote and not many tourists come here. They roads are all dirt and people ride around on donkey carts. It is like stepping back in time. They best thing is that they don't hassle you to buy their wares. It would have been nice to have spent more time here but we're leaving tomorrow morning for Alexanderia.

This afternoon we did a jeep safari out into the desert. It was so much fun. You wouldn't believe how we went straight down sand dunes that were so steep that I was sure we'd turn end over end. The drivers built a fire just before sunset and served mint tea. What a feeling to be out in the desert and not see another thing.
11-25 (Sunday)

Barbara and I walked over to the Egyptian Museum today and spent about three hours before going back to the Khan el Kalani Bazaar for more shopping. Barbara wanted to get another cartouche for a friend. I went down to the only restaurant where we would consider eating to get us a table. The guy said there was no room so we got the man at the cartouche store to go to the restaurant on our behalf to get us in. It worked! When we left the Bazaar we walked out through the local market. Barbara wanted to buy a burka. The man who was helping us wanted 350 which was $63 for the head piece that probably cost $3 at most. He was so absurd that we didn't even try to bargain with him. We hired a taxi to take us back to the hotel. Barbara got friendly with him and asked him how much he thought a burka would cost. He said, $15 so she asked him to stop and get her one. She thinks she gave him 100 plus 5 which included the taxi ride and tip. He said she gave him a 10 and a 5. She ended up giving him another 100 but thinks he cheated her out of 100.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

11-24 (Saturday)

I'm fine. Some of you especially Lynda have been worried since I haven't blogged or written anything in several days. I flew into Cairo, met up with the Buz group and took off right away for Luxor where we boarded a boat for a Nile cruise. There has been NO internet. Have been to Aswan and Abu Simbel. Just flew back into Cairo last night late. The "group" did stuff today but Barbara (the girl that was with Joyce and me in Irian Jaya) and I went to the Pyramids on our own - much better. We rode horse and it was wonderful. I wasn't walking but racing across the desert on that horse. My tail is really hurting now. Tonight we went back for a Sound and Light Show at the Pyramids. It was so professional and we loved it. I don't have much time on the computer. Tomorrow Barbara and I are going to the museum and then shopping of course. Monday we leave for Sewa (sp) and there may not be a computer for several more days. Don't worry. I miss you Lynda.

I'll try to fill in some of the things I have been doing when I have more time on the computer.

Friday, November 16, 2007

11-16 (Friday) Jerusalem

I was at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at 6:45 a.m. I wanted to get in to see the tomb of Jesus without waiting. There was a private mass going on so I ended up having to wait about 20 minutes but that was better than hours. They clean everything in the tomb from about 7:30 - 8:00 when it is closed. I went in a second time just before cleaning.

Later I was looking for the Damascus Gate but came upon the Lion's Gate. Outside was a Jewish cemetery from which I had a good view of the Rock of the Dome.

I walked the Stations of the Cross. I was back at Jaffa Gate by 10:00. I called and arranged for a pick up to the airport tomorrow at 9 a.m. for $12. I will be leaving for Egypt.

I headed out to the local bus station to get a lift to the Mt of Olives. What a view!

Today is the Muslim Holy Day. When I was coming out of the Souk they were coming in like ants after sugar. I could hardly make my way out.

I ate lunch at a local Arab place then walked to the Garden Tomb. This is where Protestants think Jesus was buried. Everybody else thinks it's the Church of the Sepulchre.

It is really cold here at night once the sun goes down at 4:30. After sundown tonight starts the Jewish Holy Day until sundown tomorrow night. I think that's right.

I'm getting picked up tomorrow at 9:00 for a 1 p.m. flight. Will be in Egypt by 5:00 tomorrow afternoon. I can't wait for a good shower. The one I have now is the pits. Also I'll bet they will have heat!!
11-15 (Thursday) Jerusalem

I decided to go to Bethlehem this morning. I walked to the Damascus Gate where I hoped to find a local bus. I was lucky and got to the station just as one was getting ready to leave. It cost me $1 for the trip. I didn't realize this is an area where Israel has put up a wall to keep the Palestines out. I had to show my passport and go through a series of fences and checkpoints to get to the other side. Waiting there were an army of taxis. At least 10 drivers came running up to me. They wanted $5 to drive me to the Church of the Nativity. I asked if they had meters. One driver said he did so I went with him. When I got in the cab I asked where the meter was. He turned back the mileage counter and said that was it. I told him to forget it and got out. The other drives began swarming again. I said I'd only pay $2.50 and I walked off. Some driver came up in his cab and said he'd take me for $2.50. As we were driving he began telling me all the other things there were to see. I knew he wanted to take me on a tour so I told him I was only going to the church.

After I finished in the church there he was - waiting on me. I told him I was going to look around. When I got ready to leave - there he was. I got in his cab. As we were driving back he got mad at me when he figured out I wasn't going to go touring with him.He said he had wasted time with me and he thought I should just get out of his cab. He stopped and I got out. This reminded me of the guy in Vietnam who put me out of his pedicab. It wasn't long before another cab came along and agreed to $2.50

I decided to go on a three hour city walking tour when I got back to Jerusalem. I thought it was a good tour - going through most of the places I had been yesterday but learning more about them: the Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim Quarters, the Western (Wailing) Wall, Via Dolorous and the Church of the Sepulchre.
11-14 (Wednesday) Leaving Amman

"Mong" was in the lobby waiting for me at 6 a.m. We took a cab to the Jet Bus station. When I was there before one of the workers told me I had to have reservations a day in advance. I worried myself to death over this for nothing. We had a giant bus and Mong and I were the only two on it besides some guard.

The bus took us through several check points on the way to the King Hussein Bridge. I had 17 dinar for the trip. The bus cost 7.5 and the departure fee was 5. I had paid 1/2 for the taxi and some other fee. At the very end I was asked for 3 dinar. I only had 2.5! I think Mong would have given me the 1/2 but the bus guy said, "forget it."

Getting into Israel was a little more tricky. Not that it was hard but they did ask a lot of questions. Once we cleared customs we paid for a shared "taxi" van into Jerusalem. We were let out near the Damascus Gate and I needed to go to the Jaffa Gate. Mong had to go in that direction too. We had to climb a steep hill to get there. Once again the wheel on my suitcase was no good so Mong helped me carry my suitcase. What a pain. I hope it will hold up until I get home and throw it in the trash.

I found the Jaffa Gate Hostel without any trouble. Mong was going to come to my hostel at noon and we were going to go to Bethlehem. I waited until 1:30 but he never showed up so I began exploring on my own.

The shopkeepers are almost as bad here as they are in Bali as far as trying to get you into their shops. The only thing they aren't saying here is: "Braid your hair? Manicure or Transport?"

I am actually pretty good at not falling for their ploys but I must admit one go me good. He asked if I spoke English and I said, "yes." He said he was trying to get a visa to the states to visit his brother and there was a question he didn't understand on the application. It asked what his complexion was. He wanted to know what that meant and what he should write down. I fell for it hook, line and sinker. Before I knew it I was in his store looking at his "visa application." Then he showed me the question about his line of work. He said he is a shop owner and designs his own jewelry. Now he wants to show me his jewelry and I'm finally catching on. I'm realizing his application isn't crisp and new but has been shown to many tourists so they can help him "fill it out." But it was all for nothing - as soon as he stared pulling out his stuff to show me I departed.

It was really cold at night in my hotel room. There is NO heater but you could rent one for $10. I shivered under three blankets instead.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

11-13 (Tuesday) Amman

We took a cab "downtown" this morning to the old Roman Theater then walked along the streets. We went in one shop and started talking to the clerk from Bagdad who told us he was married to an American. He phoned her and she came right over to meet us. She was originally from some place in NY near where Lynda lives. She took us out for coffee. This girl was a live wire. She was wearing a head scarf because she converted to Islam 20 years ago when she married a Palestinian. She was originally Jewish. Go figure. She yapped all the time giving us her complete history. She is 20 years older than the guy she is currently married to. Do I sense a ticket to the US in this somewhere? Her husband gave me the name of a place I should go to get a bus to the King Hessian Bridge the next day. That's where I would cross into Israel. When I got back to the hotel I showed it to my fiend there and he said if I took that bus it would take me hours and hours to cross the border because that was a bus for Arabs. I got real upset about the whole thing because I wasn't sure what was going to be my best way of crossing. I talked it over with Lynda and I decided that I was going to try to take the Jet Bus the next day even though you were supposed to have reservations a day in advance I was going to give it a try.

I moved into a single room because Lynda was leaving at 10 p.m. to go to the airport for home. She hung out with me until it was time to depart.

I went downstairs to talk over my plans with the desk clerk ONE MORE TIME. An Oriental man came in with an American passport. He told the clerk he HAD to get to Jerusalem in the morning. I told him I was going too. I told him to meet me in the lobby at 6 a.m. and we would go to the Jet Bus together.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

11-12 (Monday) Amman

Thankfully I asked for an extra blanket on my bed last night. This morning I put on my silk underwear, my pull over sweater and a fleece jacket.

We went to the ATM to get MORE money. We took a cab to Jarash at 7:45 this morning. At Jarash (an old Roman ruin) we attended a "show" which started off with the entrance of about 40 "Roman" legionnaires who parade around the hippodrome. They showed how the Roman gladiators fought it out with tridents, how the legionnaires used their shields etc. The climax was two chariots racing each other several times around the hippodrome's central wooden spina.

As we did going we took the local bus home for about 41.50 instead of $20 for a cab.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

11-10 (Saturday)

After I got up I walked down the street to look at the old train station. I stopped in at the Oriental Hotel. It was built in 1929. The lobby looked like something right out of the movies. Men and women Muslims sitting in chairs lining the wall They were all old.

Today Fayeez told us we could go on a city tour with his group from Sweden. We met them at their hotel which was only a half a block from ours.

We went to the Old City which was fascinating. We saw the tomb of Saladin, the Umayyad Mosque which is where John the Baptist's head is suppose to be.

We had a wonderful buffet lunch. We visited places where Paul is said to have had a revelation
11-9 (Friday)

I didn't sleep at ALL last night. We had breakfast on the top floor of the hotel - boiled egg, cheese, olives, juice and bread.

Our first stop was the museum. The preservation of the artifacts that have been found is incredible. We did some tombs before heading back to Damascus..

On our way back we we stopped at the Bagdad Cafe! We were only 159 K from the Iraq border. A lot of young girls were there traveling on a field trip with their teachers. They were fascinated with me especially when I spoke to them in English.

We arrived in Damascus around 12:30 and went to Fayeez's house to visit with his wife and children while he went to the airport to pick up a group from Sweden he will be working with for the next week or more.

His wife cooked lunch for us - some sort of noodle dish, rice and artichoke hearts stuffed with meat and cheese. We had chocolate cake with pineapple slices for dessert. Afterwards we went shopping with the mother and girls. The mother and 13 year old daughter put on head scarves before we went out.

The apartment was in an old worn out building a little worse than the one I stayed in in Russia.

Tonight we stayed in the hotel we were originally scheduled to stay in.
11-8 (Thursday)

We were ready and waiting downstirs at 6 a.m. when Fayeez and the van driver showed up to drive us to Belbak in Lebanon. Another border crossing! We didn't have to pay since we were going to be there less than 24 hours. Right across the border in Lebanon was the most wonderful bakery where we stopped for breakfast - we had a cheese pizza! It was actually very good - thin crust.

Belbek was impressives as we drove up - it is an ancient Roman ruin. Fayeez said we could hire a guide for $25. We thought he was crazy. We said we were going to walk around with a guide which we did for about an hour and a half.

We drove back to the border at a different location and crossed back into Syria. We drove to Palmyra which took about 4 hours. We arrived at 3:00 and went directly to the Roman ruins. Here Fayeez did the tour. We drove to a castle way up on a mountain for the sunset.

After checking into the Oriental Hotel we went out for our first food since breakfast with Fayeez and the driver.
11-7 (Wednesday)

We decided to go over to the Sheraton Hotel and have something lite in the coffee shop. We had to go through metal detectors and be patted down before we could enter. Because the coffee shop was closed we ate in the main dining room. I had pancakes and fruit for $4. Lynda had something similar plus coffee. When the bill came her 2 cups of coffee were $7.

We took a cab over to Mega Mall where we thought we might do a little shopping. The place was HUGE and four floors high. There was hardly anyone in it, just like at home and the prices were way out of our range.

We went back to the hotel and packed up to go meet Lynda's friend, Fayeez, who was going to take us to Syria. Lynda had the name of the hotel where we were to meet him and what it was close to but no address. It was a long way from where we were staying. The taxi driver didn't know where it was and we kept driving around in circles. Thankfully we had a phone # unfortunately the driver's phone didn't work. I called to some girls walking down the street and one of them let us use her phone.

We finally got to the Hillside Hotel. Fayeez arrived with the Dutch group he had been with for the last 13 days. He was turning them over to a Jordanian guide for the last leg of their trip.

We were on the bus with Fayeez and the driver pulling out of Amman about 6 p.m. in the pitch black of night. We didn't have much trouble crossing the border on either side but the Syrian guard questioned where a certain stamp in my passport was from - of course I had no idea. Finally I said, Myanmar. He wanted to know where that was I told him Asia. Later when we were back on the bus I found my Myanmar stamp. I guess he must have been looking at Laos. Oh well . . .

Fayeez told us that since the bombing of Syrian by Iarael about a mont ago that they are watching all Americans like a hawk. He said we would probably be watched the entire time.

We got to our hotel in Damascus about 9:30 only to find out that they didn't have a room for us. We had to load all our things into a taxi since the bus had left and go to another hotel. It was okay - a big room with three beds. We took showers in the smallest stall I've ever been in but we were so tired we just wanted to get in bed as close to 11:00 as possible.
11-6 (Tuesday)

After getting MORE money out of the ATM machine we took a taxi over to a local bus station. We wanted to go to Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. We talked to some bus driver who said he would take us there for 10 JD ($15) each. I said, "No way." He talked to some other girl who wanted to go to the Dead Sea. She agreed to pay 35 JD round trip so he said he'd take us for 5 JD each. We agreed. We ended up giving him 10 each because he said he'd come back and get us when we were finished. The girl (who is a nurse in Saudi) Lynda and I were the only three on the bus.

At Bethany we got on an open bed truck with some Russians and a guide. The first place we stopped was at the Jordan River. We could look across to Israel. Then we walked to the place where they think Jesus was actually baptised. The water no longer comes up to that point but you could see where it once did. They are busy excavating the area. The site became very popular after Pope John Paul visited in 2000 and conducted a massive open air mass.

We could look across the river and see tourists on the Israel side. The river isn't wide at all. You could probably take 10 steps to walk across.

Two of the Russian women who were with us went down into the water and appeared to baptise themselves. One had on a bathing suit and the other put on some sort of white gown that looked like it had a religious picture on the front.

When we got back to Amman we had the driver drop us off at the Old City. We walked along the street taking pictures and looking in the shops. We met a man who makes and hand paints glass ornaments, bottles, candle holders etc. His pieces were so beautiful that I finally made my first purchase.

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

11-5 (Monday)
I was awakened at 4:30 a.m. by the call to prayer. It sounded like the loudspeaker was in our room.

Our driver from yesterday, Abraham, picked us up at 7:00 to drive us along the King's Highway to Amman stopping at 6 different places along the way.

The first stop was Shobak Castle. A guide that I hired and I walked down 365 underground steps in total darkness except for my torch. it was hard going because there was loose sand on the rocks which caused me to slip. These steps didn't go straight down but snaked left and right. I thought maybe they had been used as an escape route but no, it was the way people went to fetch their water from a spring! The tunnel ended at the bottom of the castle where I had to climb straight up grabbing hold of one iron bar after another. there were 11 of these I had to climb to exit.

We drove to the Dead Sea for a swim. There were changing rooms and lockers without locks. We stuck our things in a locker and took our money belts etc down to the beach. There were lots of sharp stones where I entered the water. I was barefooted and it hurt. When I got out about chest deep the bottom was sandy. It was really funny to see how you could float sticking your arms and legs out of the water at the same time. If you had a cut on your body it could really hurt. You sure didn't want to get any water in your eyes. I didn't stay in too long because my legs started stinging - when I got out I had a rash on my legs near the top. There was fresh water to rinse off with after you got out.

We drove to Mt Nebo where Moses is said to have first seen the promised land which he himself was forbidden to enter.

We arrived at our hotel, the Gondola, in Amman around 5:00. We paid the driver $50 each plus a tip and he headed back to Petra.
11-4 (Sunday)
Everyone departed for different places this morning. Lynda and I went off with Romeo to drive to the Saudi border. When we got there we climbed way up on a hill from where we could see the guard stations in Jordan and Saudi. We finished our desert tour around 12:30 and took a cab (1 1/2 hours) back to Petra.

We checked in at the Petra Gate Hotel even though Lynda wanted to stay in the filthy one because she likes the staff. I agree the staff was wonderful but I was ready for clean.

After we had dinner we went back to the Cleopetra Hotel so Lynda could interview a woman from Iraq. Lynda is planning to write an article for the newspaper.
11-3 (Saturday)

I got up early and walked down the street to look for a new hotel and an ATM machine since I had NO money. I picked out the Petra Gate for us to stay in when we return from Wadi Rum.

We packed into a van with the French couple and 4 Spaniards for our trip to Wadi Rum. The guy that was in charge of our tour picked us up at the Visitors Center and took us to his house (Wadi Rum Village) for tea which his wife prepared. We took off our shoes and sat down on fabric covered sheets of foam rubber which lined the walls of the living room. The only other furniture in there was an old desk.

After all that we met our driver and climbed into an open bed pickup truck to begin our tour of the desert. I was so lucky that I got in the cab with the driver because I was protected from the sun and all the dust and dirt that the truck kicked up. The road was similar to Africa in that it was just a path or make you own pathway. The desert scenery is extraordinary. The dramatic colors of the rocks change with the angle of the sun.

The 22 year old hot shot driver with a front tooth missing took a liking to me. We were planning to spend the night in a Bedouin Camp. The driver told me he wanted me to spend the night with him under the stars - yippee! How did I get so lucky? He drove us out to a red sand dune. Some of our group walked up but I climbed rocks which were not slippery like at Petra. They had the consistency of sandpaper so they were easy to climb.

Our driver (my boyfriend) took us to see some Nabataean writing on the wall of one of the rock faces. We stopped to see the remains of a house that Lawrence of Arabia once lived in. There was a huge rock next to it which most of us climbed. As we were doing this the driver was preparing our lunch: sardines, olives, pita bread, tuna, hummus and raw tomatoes and cucumbers. After lunch we saw the Burdah Rock Bridge. It was here that I talked to an older Bedouin who has 4 wives. He said he would take me as #5! Finally we arrived at camp - there were 3 huge tents. I decided to sleep in the one with the Spanish group because I heard that Christian (the French guy) snored. My boyfriend had told me he wanted to take just me to a "special" place to see the sunset. I avoided him like the plague!

In the evening we all had dinner around a fire in one of the tents. The driver/cook and 2 of his buddies were eating with us. Then the driver got out a bottle of gin and started offering it to everyone. A couple of people took a shot but mostly he was drinking and shooting off his mouth. Every time a car would drive up they would run out to see if it was the police. Then they started singing Arab songs. They got on the cell phone and called someone to bring a lute. An older man showed up and they continued singing. They older guy was playing and singing when the driver (who had plenty to drink) and his buddy went to the tin cook shack. The next thing we heard was shouting and then they got into a fight and we could tell they were throwing each other up against the walls of the shack. Several of us got scared and the older man started yelling at them. That broke up the party in a hurry. We all headed to our pallets on the tent floor by 9:45. The driver and his friend were sleeping outside under the stars. About 10 minutes after we were all in bed we heard a vehicle drive up and then someone arguing with the driver. they had heated words with lot of shouting. Soon the vehicle roared off. After the driver and his friend shut up there wasn't a sound to be heard - just like in Africa and the stars were bright like the African stars. Then we heard Lynda snoring across the courtyard! I was glad I didn't get in the tent with her!

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

11-2 (Friday)




I just typed a whole lot about this day and lost everything!






Lynda and I did Petra today. She decided she didn't want to walk in so she hired a horse cart - BIG mistake! The drivers whip the horses to make them go fast. When you get to the large stones (laid by the Romans) along the way I'm sure every tooth in your head feels like it is coming out of your head. Lynda said it was awful.

I walked in with the guide so he told me all the info along the way. Coming through the Siq and seeing the Treasury for the first time in daylight was awesome. After meeting up with Lynda and taking hundreds of pictures we walked down and saw the High Place of Sacrifice, the Royal Tombs the Theatre which could seat about 3,000 in 45 rows of seats- the orchestra section was carved into the rock. We saw the Urn Tomb and walked down Colonnade Street.

We decided to hire donkeys and go on to the Monastery. It was after noon so I wanted to eat first. We had 2 choices - one was run by the Holiday Inn Crown Plaza and cost 10 JD ($14US) - we chose the other on 7 JD ($10) and it was an excellent buffet. After eating Lynda got on her mule, Jack, and I got on ZooZoo for our ride up the 950 steps of the mountain. The mule owner walks along side of you. You have to get off before the Monastery and walk the rest of the way on your own. It is similar to the Treasury in design but far bigger. We saw a guy standing on the very top most pint on the urn. He began climbing around and jumping from one column top to another. Needless to say all eyes were on him. He was barefooted. I stayed and watched until he finally came down.

Lynda left and walked back down (this time you walk - no mules) and I decided to go to the "view." This was a long walk and many of the stones I had to cross were very slippery with sand. I slid a couple of times. The scariest part was right before you got to the view. The rocks were so smooth and on a slant with quite a ways to fall. Somehow I made it and there were Ros and Margaret from our hotel! The view was defiantly worth it.

On my way down I ran into the guy who was doing all the climbing. He is a Bedouin and said it's nothing for him. He said somethmes he spends the night in the Monastery.

We had a great day but were filthy when we left the site. My face was covered with sand.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

Petra
11-1 Thursday

It seems like I have lost a day somewhere. Maybe it was over the Atlantic.

Lynda and I were up by 7 a.m. and ready to hit the road. We had a Continental breakfast at the hotel: toast, cheese and coffee for 12 US (Ouch!). Thankfully I brought my own hot chocolate. Lynda wanted milk for her coffee - the guy said he understood and brought a small container of more water. I had to draw on my foreign skills by pretending to milk a cow and saying mooooooo! He got it!

As we were getting in our cab to go over to the Jett Bus station I learned that the desk clerk lived in Winter Garden, FL for 12 years! He said, "You probably haven't heard of it because it's a small town but it's near Disney World." I told him I knew exactly where it was. Small world.

When we got to the Jett Bus station the bus for Petra had already left so we got in another cab and went to the public bus station. We had to wait until the bus was full before we could depart. The BO Express cost us 5.60 US. (I have to keep saying US because I can't find a dollar sign on this computer.) There were mostly men in our mini van except for a married couple from France and a family with two young children, two teen looking girls and a woman whose face was completely covered.

The land we traveled through with the radio blaring Arab tunes (Joyce remember the bus to Tana Torja?) was arid and barren. The houses (even the new ones) are devoid of color in keeping with the tradition of mud dried homes. They are mostly square structures with square windows.

We stopped about 45 minutes into the trip and picked up some guy standing on the side of the road. He had to stand because all the seats were taken. We later picked up two more guys.

An hour into the trip we stopped for gas- I went to the toilet. Right next to the room with the toilets was the ladies prayer room with the rugs on the floor. This is a heads up for Anna and Fran - the toi-lets were squats!

As we continued down the road the guy that was standing right in front of me threw his soda can out the window onto the highway. You can imagine what that does to an American to see something like that.

We reached Petra in about 3 1/2 hours. We checked into the Cleopetra Hotel which is a real dump. You know it has to be bad if I'm saying that. The bathroom is so small you have to sit sideways on the toilet! The beds are so close together you have to drag one foot behind the other to walk between them. I'll measure tonight but I bet there is less than 6 inches between them.

This afternoon we went out to Little Petra with the French couple that was on the bus with us. They are staying at our hotel and hate it too.

Tonight we're going to see a sound and light show at Petra. I would write more but the internet has just turned on this REALLY LOUD Arab music and I can't think at all. My keyboard is vibrating. I think they are having prayers upstairs because I have seen a ton of men going up and they are making all kinds of racket.

Write me.
10-30 (Tuesday)

I'm here! To update . . .
Anna showed up at 2:30 to take me to the airport. She helped me weigh my suitcase - 39 lbs. When I had it weighed at the airport 39 lbs! We were right on the money.

This morning when I was buying gas I asked the clerk where she was from and she said Palestine. I told her I was leaving for Jordan this afternoon - that excited her. She said, "Be sure to take warm clothes, it's really cold." I went home and threw more cold weather clothes in my suitcase.

On the plane from Memphis to Amsterdam I was sitting next to a guy who was on his way to Bagdad. I was surprised that he was traveling commercial. I took 1/2 of an Ambien and fell asleep before they served dinner but after I ate I didn't sleep at all. They served us breakfast at 1 a.m. Orlando time. We landed at 3 a.m. Orlando time in Amsterdam. The pilot wanted to make sure we were thoroughly acquainted with the airport because he must have driven over every runway for 30-45 minutes before we got to the gate. I told the guy next to me I thought we were driving him to Bagdad.

I found the transfer desk and got myself a boarding pass. I walked around and poked in the shops since I'd been sitting so long. My eyes were bloodshot from no sleep and I had dropped food on my blouse which I tried to wash off in the bathroom. I was lovely!

About 10 minutes before we were to board I went to my gate. There were only about 15 seats so many people were standing. There was an empty seat between a man and a woman so I went over and sat down. I don't know if this was allowed since he was Arab but no one paid any attention to it. Shortly a man came out and said, "Amman passengers, come on in." We went through x-ray and then sat in another waiting room where there were plenty of chairs. A girl and her 7 month old baby sat down across from me. She was from Palestine but going to Amman to see her parents. She lives in Alaska with her Arab husband who is a cancer specialist. She had come all the way from Alaska with that baby. He was worn out. She paid for a seat for him so she didn't have to hold him the entire way. She had a suitcase and a huge Eddie Bauer buggy. I helped her get on the plane. My seat was next to a German couple. I knew as soon as I sat down where they were from and I'll bet Dinki knows why!

If you have traveled international you're familiar with the map on your viewing (TV) screen. It shows where you started, where you're going, how many miles you've traveled etc. Well . . . on Royal Jordanian Air from Amsterdam to Amman they showed the direction of Mecca! As the plane turned the arrow pointing to Mecca was updated. Interesting.

When we landed I helped the girl with the baby again. She must have had 8 more bags besides the one I was helping her with (she was staying 2 months.) I got my visa (15 US) at the airport. I came in at terminal one and Lynda at terminal 2. Luckily they were just across the street from each other. I was waiting there as Lynda came out of customs. After changing some money we got a cab to the Gondola Hotel which was a long ride. I took a shower, washed out my dirty shirt and got in bed by 10:30.

Friday, October 26, 2007

On the road again . . .

I leave Tuesday, Oct. 30th with a destination of Amman, Jordan. I fly from Orlando to Memphis then Amsterdam and on to Amman. I am meeting Lynda, the girl I went gorilla tracking with in Uganda. We are going to do Petra and hopefully Wadi Rum (desert area) then will pick up a guide to take us into Syria. Lynda will return to the states the night of Nov. 13th. I will be on my own until Sunday, Nov 18th when I will meet a group in Cairo. I had planned to spend those free days in Jerusalem but now I'm not sure because I am having a terrible time trying to get a flight from Jerusalem to Cairo. I don't want to take a bus just because it takes about 15 hours and that would be all day. I have been trying to get into the El Al website but it has been down for hours. Oh well, I'll figure something out. I guess my next post will be from Jordan!