11-14 (Wednesday) Leaving Amman

"Mong" was in the lobby waiting for me at 6 a.m. We took a cab to the Jet Bus station. When I was there before one of the workers told me I had to have reservations a day in advance. I worried myself to death over this for nothing. We had a giant bus and Mong and I were the only two on it besides some guard.

The bus took us through several check points on the way to the King Hussein Bridge. I had 17 dinar for the trip. The bus cost 7.5 and the departure fee was 5. I had paid 1/2 for the taxi and some other fee. At the very end I was asked for 3 dinar. I only had 2.5! I think Mong would have given me the 1/2 but the bus guy said, "forget it."

Getting into Israel was a little more tricky. Not that it was hard but they did ask a lot of questions. Once we cleared customs we paid for a shared "taxi" van into Jerusalem. We were let out near the Damascus Gate and I needed to go to the Jaffa Gate. Mong had to go in that direction too. We had to climb a steep hill to get there. Once again the wheel on my suitcase was no good so Mong helped me carry my suitcase. What a pain. I hope it will hold up until I get home and throw it in the trash.

I found the Jaffa Gate Hostel without any trouble. Mong was going to come to my hostel at noon and we were going to go to Bethlehem. I waited until 1:30 but he never showed up so I began exploring on my own.

The shopkeepers are almost as bad here as they are in Bali as far as trying to get you into their shops. The only thing they aren't saying here is: "Braid your hair? Manicure or Transport?"

I am actually pretty good at not falling for their ploys but I must admit one go me good. He asked if I spoke English and I said, "yes." He said he was trying to get a visa to the states to visit his brother and there was a question he didn't understand on the application. It asked what his complexion was. He wanted to know what that meant and what he should write down. I fell for it hook, line and sinker. Before I knew it I was in his store looking at his "visa application." Then he showed me the question about his line of work. He said he is a shop owner and designs his own jewelry. Now he wants to show me his jewelry and I'm finally catching on. I'm realizing his application isn't crisp and new but has been shown to many tourists so they can help him "fill it out." But it was all for nothing - as soon as he stared pulling out his stuff to show me I departed.

It was really cold at night in my hotel room. There is NO heater but you could rent one for $10. I shivered under three blankets instead.