10-29 (Sunday) On the Reunification Express . . .
Neither of us slept well last night. I was too cold and then too hot. I got the extra cover from the bunk above me. This morning the conductor reprimanded me for using it. It belonged to another bunk even though no one was there to use it! We were awake when the sun came up because the curtains fell off the window last night when we were trying to close them.
They brought us a container of dry noodles for breakfast. I’m sure we could have gotten hot water to mix them with but we didn’t want them. We ate the snacks we brought with us, mostly M & M’s and other candy! It’s no wonder I’ve only lost 2 lbs on the trip! For lunch they gave us steamed rice, soup, beef with something in it and another unrecognizable veggie. Pass.
A big crowd of Westerners got off in Hue. I got real excited thinking it might be Saigon. The conductor said, “No.” I asked what time we’d get to Saigon and he wrote on his hand, 4:30. Bummer. We were thinking we’d get there around 2 p.m.
The scenery on this part of the journey was breathtaking: lush rice paddies, water buffalo chasing each other, quaint villages, and gorgeous mountains with the sea crashing onto giant rocks down below. We traveled in the mountains looking down on the coastline for a long, long time. It reminded me a little of S. Africa.
This was undoubtedly the nosiest train I had ever been on and I’ve been on a lot. It was also the roughest ride. We thought we were going to be lulled to sleep last night – NOT! Our compartment must have been right on top of the wheels because we felt everything.
At 4:45 p.m. it appeared we were getting near Saigon because the houses and shops started to build up. The train began slowing. We got all of our luggage out in the hall next to the exit. We went back in the compartment to wait when Joyce said, “You know, we haven’t been on the train 24 hours yet.” Oh horrors! We grabbed all of our luggage and hauled it back into the cabin. We knew the trip was no less than 27 hours but we were so anxious to get off that we believed we were almost there. It wasn’t long before they served Joyce’s birthday dinner: steamed rice, some green veggie, beef with what we thought was potatoes but turned out to be giant hunks of fat! Happy Birthday!
We were finally over the shock of being another night on the train. We brushed our teeth and settled in for another night. We hadn’t been asleep long when the train stopped at some station around 11 p.m. Don’t you know a whole crowd got on and to make matters worse four people switched on the lights and came into our compartment. Thank goodness we had the two lower bunks. They crawled all over us and went to their places. Happy Birthday!
We arrived in Saigon at 4:30 in the morning. We were dead tired. We got a taxi (paid too much) and went to the hotel. We had told them we were coming in the night before so we paid for the room even though we weren’t there. The good thing was that we could go into the room at 5 a.m. and shower and throw our stuff around. I fell asleep while I was waiting for Joyce to come out of the bathroom.
We got ourselves together and went out to see the town. We walked down to the Notre Dame Church. Went to a big department store and walked down to the old palace to take a tour. It was closed for lunch! We went back to the hotel after eating some lunch to take a rest. We were pretty much out of it all day.
That night we went out for a nice dinner at a place where Dinki and I had eaten when we were here last year. I bought Joyce her belated birthday dinner. She liked it much better than the globs of fat she had on the train the night before.
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
10-28 (Saturday) Continued . . .
We killed at least an hour in a department store. We went to the Internet – we stayed an hour even though we probably only did 10 minutes worth of mail because the computers were so slow. When we finished we got to talking to the young guy who works there. He was telling us that he works from 2 p.m. until 8 a.m. daily. That’s 18 hours a day! He makes $50 a month out of which he supports his elderly parents and his sister who is at the university.
At 10:00 we went back to our hotel and got a taxi to the train station. As soon as we got out of the cab some guy grabbed our luggage and wouldn’t turn loose of it. We needed help anyway so we didn’t protest too loudly. We got to the correct track and showed our tickets to one of the conductors to help us find the right car. He started shaking his head, “No.” Come to find out when we went to pick up our tickets the day before the girl gave us the wrong ones! She gave us tickets on the 7 p.m. train instead of the 11 p.m. train! We were out of luck. The guy that had grabbed our bags went with me to the ticket office. The woman at the booth was real snotty to me. I knew I had to buy new tickets and that she wasn’t going to give me “credit.” Dinki, remember when this happened to us in Russia? I had to come up wit 1,866,000. Thank goodness I had cashed a check the day before. The soft sleepers were sold out so we had to take a hard sleeper. The soft sleeper in addition to being a little more plush had 2 bunks in a compartment – ours had 3 but we were extremely lucky that we were the only two in it. Joyce paid the guy who had grabbed our bags and hauled them all the way to our cabin. She gave him 28,000 (about $2) he said he wanted 50,000 ($3.) She didn’t understand him and thought he was saying 15,000. She counted out the money and told him she gave him more than 15,000. He took the money and stormed off.
We prepared to settle in for our trip on the Reunification Express to Saigon.
We killed at least an hour in a department store. We went to the Internet – we stayed an hour even though we probably only did 10 minutes worth of mail because the computers were so slow. When we finished we got to talking to the young guy who works there. He was telling us that he works from 2 p.m. until 8 a.m. daily. That’s 18 hours a day! He makes $50 a month out of which he supports his elderly parents and his sister who is at the university.
At 10:00 we went back to our hotel and got a taxi to the train station. As soon as we got out of the cab some guy grabbed our luggage and wouldn’t turn loose of it. We needed help anyway so we didn’t protest too loudly. We got to the correct track and showed our tickets to one of the conductors to help us find the right car. He started shaking his head, “No.” Come to find out when we went to pick up our tickets the day before the girl gave us the wrong ones! She gave us tickets on the 7 p.m. train instead of the 11 p.m. train! We were out of luck. The guy that had grabbed our bags went with me to the ticket office. The woman at the booth was real snotty to me. I knew I had to buy new tickets and that she wasn’t going to give me “credit.” Dinki, remember when this happened to us in Russia? I had to come up wit 1,866,000. Thank goodness I had cashed a check the day before. The soft sleepers were sold out so we had to take a hard sleeper. The soft sleeper in addition to being a little more plush had 2 bunks in a compartment – ours had 3 but we were extremely lucky that we were the only two in it. Joyce paid the guy who had grabbed our bags and hauled them all the way to our cabin. She gave him 28,000 (about $2) he said he wanted 50,000 ($3.) She didn’t understand him and thought he was saying 15,000. She counted out the money and told him she gave him more than 15,000. He took the money and stormed off.
We prepared to settle in for our trip on the Reunification Express to Saigon.
Oct. 29 Joyce's birthday!
All of you who know Joyce please send her a birthday greething and some news from home. Sunday, Oct. 29 was her birthday. She will be sooooooooooo happy if she gets messages from home.
I could never ask for a better travel partner than she has been. This is the sweetest girl in in world. She is such a good sport and the most compassionate, sympathetic and giving person. In Asia it is expected that you bargain for everything. She feels so sorry for the people that if they ask 100 for an item she is likely to give them 125! I bought something in Luang Prabang and she thought I paid too little. She told me later that she considered slipping the woman another 50. Thank goodness she didn't because it was for that stupid shirt I bought that all the color washed out of and fell apart the next day. She's doing a little better now days.
Anyway, if you know her be sure to send birthday greetings.
All of you who know Joyce please send her a birthday greething and some news from home. Sunday, Oct. 29 was her birthday. She will be sooooooooooo happy if she gets messages from home.
I could never ask for a better travel partner than she has been. This is the sweetest girl in in world. She is such a good sport and the most compassionate, sympathetic and giving person. In Asia it is expected that you bargain for everything. She feels so sorry for the people that if they ask 100 for an item she is likely to give them 125! I bought something in Luang Prabang and she thought I paid too little. She told me later that she considered slipping the woman another 50. Thank goodness she didn't because it was for that stupid shirt I bought that all the color washed out of and fell apart the next day. She's doing a little better now days.
Anyway, if you know her be sure to send birthday greetings.
Saturday, October 28, 2006
10-28 (Saturday) Hanoi
I felt much better today – back to normal.
After breakfast we went back to the room to finish packing up for our trip to Saigon tonight. We leave by train at 11 p.m. We hung around the room reading and watching CNN until noon when we had to store our luggage and leave the hotel. We have been homeless ever since.
We took motorcycles to the Sheraton Hotel which I though was across from where Dinki and I used to eat. Well, I was wrong. We drove way out of town. We cruised through the gift shops and then decided to check out the lunch buffet. It had everything and it ALL looked fabulous. In a minute Joyce was calling to me, "Nancy, Nancy come here. You’re not going to believer this!" She thought the hostess told her it was $1.80!!! In reality it was $18.50!!! A slight miscommunication!
We again hired motorcycles to take us to the Hilton Hotel. The dumped us at the Hilton Center. We had to walk from there to the Opera House. Then we went to Au Lac Café which is where we were trying to go in the beginning. We had a wonderful meal then wandered around. We finally parked ourselves at the Hilton. We were going to do email at their business center but it was 15 cents a minute. No thank you!
Being homeless isn’t fun. We have walked and walked today. My feet are killing me and I want to get in a bed. We shared a meal tonight and are now just waiting for the time to pass so we can go to the train station.
I felt much better today – back to normal.
After breakfast we went back to the room to finish packing up for our trip to Saigon tonight. We leave by train at 11 p.m. We hung around the room reading and watching CNN until noon when we had to store our luggage and leave the hotel. We have been homeless ever since.
We took motorcycles to the Sheraton Hotel which I though was across from where Dinki and I used to eat. Well, I was wrong. We drove way out of town. We cruised through the gift shops and then decided to check out the lunch buffet. It had everything and it ALL looked fabulous. In a minute Joyce was calling to me, "Nancy, Nancy come here. You’re not going to believer this!" She thought the hostess told her it was $1.80!!! In reality it was $18.50!!! A slight miscommunication!
We again hired motorcycles to take us to the Hilton Hotel. The dumped us at the Hilton Center. We had to walk from there to the Opera House. Then we went to Au Lac Café which is where we were trying to go in the beginning. We had a wonderful meal then wandered around. We finally parked ourselves at the Hilton. We were going to do email at their business center but it was 15 cents a minute. No thank you!
Being homeless isn’t fun. We have walked and walked today. My feet are killing me and I want to get in a bed. We shared a meal tonight and are now just waiting for the time to pass so we can go to the train station.
10-27 (Friday) Hanoi
I didn’t feel well when I woke up. I was still a little off balance. We had a late breakfast at the hotel. We went back to the room and rested for a long time. I still didn’t feel good. We finally had lunch around 2"00, went to the grocery store and then went to one of the silk shops we were in yesterday and I bought a jacket. We dumped everything at the hotel then went to the Internet. Just like yesterday the computers were awful
When we got back to the hotel I took a shower and went to bed.
I didn’t feel well when I woke up. I was still a little off balance. We had a late breakfast at the hotel. We went back to the room and rested for a long time. I still didn’t feel good. We finally had lunch around 2"00, went to the grocery store and then went to one of the silk shops we were in yesterday and I bought a jacket. We dumped everything at the hotel then went to the Internet. Just like yesterday the computers were awful
When we got back to the hotel I took a shower and went to bed.
10-26 (Thursday) Hanoi
We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel because it was included with the room.
We went to the bank so Joyce could cash some checks. It was a brand new bank next to where Dinki and I withdrew millions last year. Our bank was still next door. We walked down to the supermarket and bought a few items. We shopped in a few upscale places and a few stalls as we walked back to the hotel.
We had planned to eat lunch at the Bistro but it is no longer there. We found a nice restaurant right on Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake closest to our hotel. We had a great meal but it was too much food.
We walked down one of the many drags. Joyce found a beautiful store with a box of things on sale for $5. She bought several things and got great deals especially a jacket for $5. We walked on and went into Dinki’s favorite silk shop, Khaisilk. Joyce bought several things there.
WE went back to the hotel to rest because it was so hot. I felt really weird when I got up. I was off balance. We decided to go to a travel agency and get our train tickets for Saigon. We will take the night train on Saturday. We walked down to Fanny’s and I had another ice cream. We did internet but the computer were awful. It was hard to send, they crashed and it was a big mess. We have found very few Internet Cafes and all that we have tried have been terrible.
We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel because it was included with the room.
We went to the bank so Joyce could cash some checks. It was a brand new bank next to where Dinki and I withdrew millions last year. Our bank was still next door. We walked down to the supermarket and bought a few items. We shopped in a few upscale places and a few stalls as we walked back to the hotel.
We had planned to eat lunch at the Bistro but it is no longer there. We found a nice restaurant right on Hoan Kiem Lake, the lake closest to our hotel. We had a great meal but it was too much food.
We walked down one of the many drags. Joyce found a beautiful store with a box of things on sale for $5. She bought several things and got great deals especially a jacket for $5. We walked on and went into Dinki’s favorite silk shop, Khaisilk. Joyce bought several things there.
WE went back to the hotel to rest because it was so hot. I felt really weird when I got up. I was off balance. We decided to go to a travel agency and get our train tickets for Saigon. We will take the night train on Saturday. We walked down to Fanny’s and I had another ice cream. We did internet but the computer were awful. It was hard to send, they crashed and it was a big mess. We have found very few Internet Cafes and all that we have tried have been terrible.
Thursday, October 26, 2006
10-25 (Wednesday) Going to Hanoi
Yesterday was the happiest day of Joyce's entire journey - I threw away one of my shirts that she hates! She doesn't know it but I am going to throw away the other one when we get to Hanoi.
After breakfast at the French Restaurant we went to visit the King's Palace which is now a museum. The King and his entire family were in northern Laos in 1975 and have not been heard from since.
For some reason we were thinking we were to leave Luang Prabang at 1:00. We got back to the guest house only to discover that our flight didn't leave until almost 3:00. We decided to go ahead to the airport since we had already arranged transportation for 11:30.
We found out this morning that in just four days there are going to be direct flights between Luang Prabang and Hanoi. They're suppose to be really cheap.
We went to the airport at 11:30 in a tuk tuk. We were the only ones there. Others started to show up before long. Our flight wasn't until 2:40. There was only one runway in Luang Prabang. There are only a couple of flights in and out a day so they just do their own thing. We flew to Vientiane the capital of Lao. There was only one other plane at the airport when we arrived and only one when we left. Can you imagine the capital of a country only having two planes at their airport? They didn't appear to have a tower. As in Luang Prabankg when you're ready, you go. When we got on in Luang Prabang it wasn't two minutes after everyone was seated that we were headed the lthe runway.
The flight from Vientiane to Hanoi was 50 minutes. Some diplomat from Western Sahara was sitting with us. He said he lived in NY for 17 years. He told about being at the White House and having his picture made with Barbara Bush. After Hanoi he is going toYangon.
After we landed in Hanoi we got on a bus to take us to the airport buildings. We cleared customs, I cashed some money. They wouldn't take Joyce's Traveler's Checks because they were Visa. We got a cab for 550,000 ($9.33) into town. The driver stopped to shop along the way while we waited in the back seat!! We pulled up in front of some hotel and a guy came running out, opened our door and welcomed us to the hotel. I told him this wasn't our hotel. I knew it wasn't because we were booked into the same place Dinki and I stayed last year. He jumped in the cab with us and said we must be booked at his other place. The next place was a real dump. He wanted me to go in and look at the rooms. I told him "no." I said we had rooms that were already paid for and this wasn't it. He finally got out of our cab. I don't know where he came from or if it was a set up between him and the driver. It was very strange to say least. We drove some more - we didn't have an address, just the hotel name. Finally we pulled up to a hotel with the correct name but it wasn't the right one. I went inside and talked to the men at the desk. There was a computer so I got on it to look at the email from the girl in Saigon who set it up. About that time the desk clerk came over and said, "Nancy?" He had found my reservation at their other hotel. The taxi driver was furious because he had been driving us all over. He kept saying I needed to give him more money. I felt like he did deserve some extra. Bottom line .He . he finally got us to the right hotel. We are very happy at our new place.
I threw away another shirt tonight. Joyce is going to be so happy.
Yesterday was the happiest day of Joyce's entire journey - I threw away one of my shirts that she hates! She doesn't know it but I am going to throw away the other one when we get to Hanoi.
After breakfast at the French Restaurant we went to visit the King's Palace which is now a museum. The King and his entire family were in northern Laos in 1975 and have not been heard from since.
For some reason we were thinking we were to leave Luang Prabang at 1:00. We got back to the guest house only to discover that our flight didn't leave until almost 3:00. We decided to go ahead to the airport since we had already arranged transportation for 11:30.
We found out this morning that in just four days there are going to be direct flights between Luang Prabang and Hanoi. They're suppose to be really cheap.
We went to the airport at 11:30 in a tuk tuk. We were the only ones there. Others started to show up before long. Our flight wasn't until 2:40. There was only one runway in Luang Prabang. There are only a couple of flights in and out a day so they just do their own thing. We flew to Vientiane the capital of Lao. There was only one other plane at the airport when we arrived and only one when we left. Can you imagine the capital of a country only having two planes at their airport? They didn't appear to have a tower. As in Luang Prabankg when you're ready, you go. When we got on in Luang Prabang it wasn't two minutes after everyone was seated that we were headed the lthe runway.
The flight from Vientiane to Hanoi was 50 minutes. Some diplomat from Western Sahara was sitting with us. He said he lived in NY for 17 years. He told about being at the White House and having his picture made with Barbara Bush. After Hanoi he is going toYangon.
After we landed in Hanoi we got on a bus to take us to the airport buildings. We cleared customs, I cashed some money. They wouldn't take Joyce's Traveler's Checks because they were Visa. We got a cab for 550,000 ($9.33) into town. The driver stopped to shop along the way while we waited in the back seat!! We pulled up in front of some hotel and a guy came running out, opened our door and welcomed us to the hotel. I told him this wasn't our hotel. I knew it wasn't because we were booked into the same place Dinki and I stayed last year. He jumped in the cab with us and said we must be booked at his other place. The next place was a real dump. He wanted me to go in and look at the rooms. I told him "no." I said we had rooms that were already paid for and this wasn't it. He finally got out of our cab. I don't know where he came from or if it was a set up between him and the driver. It was very strange to say least. We drove some more - we didn't have an address, just the hotel name. Finally we pulled up to a hotel with the correct name but it wasn't the right one. I went inside and talked to the men at the desk. There was a computer so I got on it to look at the email from the girl in Saigon who set it up. About that time the desk clerk came over and said, "Nancy?" He had found my reservation at their other hotel. The taxi driver was furious because he had been driving us all over. He kept saying I needed to give him more money. I felt like he did deserve some extra. Bottom line .He . he finally got us to the right hotel. We are very happy at our new place.
I threw away another shirt tonight. Joyce is going to be so happy.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
10-24 (Tuesday)
We woke up bitching about the room this morning. We discussed checking out but didn’t want the hassle.
When we saw the manager she said our old room was available! We’re moving and now we’re happy. We can quit bitching.
We got all our stuff together so the hotel staff could move it then we headed off to the bank to get some MONEY! We didn’t want t6o get too much because we’re leaving tomorrow and we don’t want to get stuck with it.
We had a lovely breakfast at our French Restaurant then leisurely walked through some parts of town we hadn’t explored before. We shopped, I took pictures, we shopped, I went to the Wat Zieng Thong Temple and Joyce shopped!
The Wat Zieng Thong Temple (Luang Prabang’s most awesome) was constructed in 1559. One of the smaller chapels contains several funeral urns and a 40 foot wooden chariot hearse.
The sun was blazing so we went back to our bitch free room to rest, cool off and repack for tomorrow’s journey.
Late this afternoon we went to the museum but it was closed on Tuesdays. We’re hoping to get down there early in the morning before we have to go to the airport at 11:30.
We had dinner at one of our favorite places and now we’re at the net.
We woke up bitching about the room this morning. We discussed checking out but didn’t want the hassle.
When we saw the manager she said our old room was available! We’re moving and now we’re happy. We can quit bitching.
We got all our stuff together so the hotel staff could move it then we headed off to the bank to get some MONEY! We didn’t want t6o get too much because we’re leaving tomorrow and we don’t want to get stuck with it.
We had a lovely breakfast at our French Restaurant then leisurely walked through some parts of town we hadn’t explored before. We shopped, I took pictures, we shopped, I went to the Wat Zieng Thong Temple and Joyce shopped!
The Wat Zieng Thong Temple (Luang Prabang’s most awesome) was constructed in 1559. One of the smaller chapels contains several funeral urns and a 40 foot wooden chariot hearse.
The sun was blazing so we went back to our bitch free room to rest, cool off and repack for tomorrow’s journey.
Late this afternoon we went to the museum but it was closed on Tuesdays. We’re hoping to get down there early in the morning before we have to go to the airport at 11:30.
We had dinner at one of our favorite places and now we’re at the net.
10-23 (Monday) Home to Luang Praband
We slept great in our $8 room last night. We only had a fan but after the sun went down it got cool. I had to getup in the night and turn the fan off it was so cold.
The driver took us to breakfast where we had dinner last night. Right next door was the MAG office. This is the group that is dismantling all the land mines in Lao. We went in and saw all the artillery they have been pulling out of the ground in this area. 30years after the war they are still trying to make this country safe to live in.
The driver’s boss called and asked to speak to me. He wanted to know if we were coming home today. I told him we were. I told him we wanted to go to a Mong Village before we came home. He said we could and he wouldn’t charge us. Going to the village was a bomb. We thought we’d see tribal dress but NO, we hardly saw anyone. They were all at the fields working. We wasted about 2 ½ hours going there and walking through the village. We could have gotten back to Luang Prabang a lot sooner if we hadn’t gone to that boring village. We once again took 6 hours to cross the mountains arriving “home” at 4:30. We gave our driver a $6 tip.
We were back at our same guest house but had to move to one of the cottages since the “big” rooms were all taken. We were most unhappy with our new digs. It was way to small, the bathroom wasn’t as nice and the sink didn’t hold water for clothes washing. The positives were that it had A/C and two beds. We bitched about it.
We decided to get away from it so we walked to town for a nice dinner. We tried a new place which was lovely. We split a chicken dish with ginger and onions. Yummy! We had garlic bread and I had a glass of wine. Afterwards Joyce wanted to show me some sort of money belt she wanted to buy. We walked way down the street to where she had seen it but she couldn’t find it. There was only one so they must have sold it. It really didn’t matter because neither of us had any money.
On our way home we stopped off to do the internet with the few cents we had left. After that – she didn’t have enough to pay for her net – I only had about 6 cents left!
We went back to the room and bitched some more!
We slept great in our $8 room last night. We only had a fan but after the sun went down it got cool. I had to getup in the night and turn the fan off it was so cold.
The driver took us to breakfast where we had dinner last night. Right next door was the MAG office. This is the group that is dismantling all the land mines in Lao. We went in and saw all the artillery they have been pulling out of the ground in this area. 30years after the war they are still trying to make this country safe to live in.
The driver’s boss called and asked to speak to me. He wanted to know if we were coming home today. I told him we were. I told him we wanted to go to a Mong Village before we came home. He said we could and he wouldn’t charge us. Going to the village was a bomb. We thought we’d see tribal dress but NO, we hardly saw anyone. They were all at the fields working. We wasted about 2 ½ hours going there and walking through the village. We could have gotten back to Luang Prabang a lot sooner if we hadn’t gone to that boring village. We once again took 6 hours to cross the mountains arriving “home” at 4:30. We gave our driver a $6 tip.
We were back at our same guest house but had to move to one of the cottages since the “big” rooms were all taken. We were most unhappy with our new digs. It was way to small, the bathroom wasn’t as nice and the sink didn’t hold water for clothes washing. The positives were that it had A/C and two beds. We bitched about it.
We decided to get away from it so we walked to town for a nice dinner. We tried a new place which was lovely. We split a chicken dish with ginger and onions. Yummy! We had garlic bread and I had a glass of wine. Afterwards Joyce wanted to show me some sort of money belt she wanted to buy. We walked way down the street to where she had seen it but she couldn’t find it. There was only one so they must have sold it. It really didn’t matter because neither of us had any money.
On our way home we stopped off to do the internet with the few cents we had left. After that – she didn’t have enough to pay for her net – I only had about 6 cents left!
We went back to the room and bitched some more!
10-22 (Sunday) On the way to the Plain of Jars
We had breakfast, paid for our room and put our suitcases in storage until we get back from Phonsovan (The Plain of Jars.)
Our driver picked us up at 8:00 for our 6 hour trip over the mountains. It was a beautiful drive but it was one hairpin turn after another. It reminded us of going over the mountains in Myanmar except the roads were better. Our driver was great and there were even seat belts in the van - a first.
We stopped at a decent size village for lunch. Joyce and I didn't like anything on the menu so we told the driver to eat while we walked around. I was looking in a shop while some very young girl with a baby strapped to her back stood watching me. I thought I was looking at sarongs or cloth - I lifted the hanger and it was a lovely sundress for a girl. I held it up to the little girl, it looked like it would fit her. I asked the woman how much? She told me $3.50 - I bought it for $2.50 and gave it to the little girl. She seemed happy - she smiled and smiled. The mother came over about then and took the bag with the dress. Hopefully the child got to keep it.
We were back on the road to Phonsovan arriving about 2:30.
We went by a guest house and I went in to look at it. It didn't have air, just a fan so I wanted to keep looking. We went to two more places that were worse. Someone told us that none of the places in Phonsovan have A/C because it is so cool at night. We went back to the first place and took a room for $8 a night.
As soon as we registered and threw our stuff in the room we took off for the1st Jar Field. There were 334 jars at this site which were carved from boulders using a chisel and hammer. There are believed to have been made between 500 BC and 500 AD as vessels for elaborate death rituals. The dead were placed in the urns until the body decomposed before being cremated. We walked down to the cave where the cremations were done. You might wonder if you've seen one jar field haven't you seen them all? In a way yes but I liked the 3rd field the best because it was so much fun getting to it. We had to walk across an old bamboo bridge, walk on a narrow path alo9ng rice patties, climb over bamboo fences, jump over small streams and climb a hill. It was dark by the time we got back from this one.
We went with the driver to eat when we got back to town. Joyce gets car sick so going over the mountains was two days of misery for her.
We had breakfast, paid for our room and put our suitcases in storage until we get back from Phonsovan (The Plain of Jars.)
Our driver picked us up at 8:00 for our 6 hour trip over the mountains. It was a beautiful drive but it was one hairpin turn after another. It reminded us of going over the mountains in Myanmar except the roads were better. Our driver was great and there were even seat belts in the van - a first.
We stopped at a decent size village for lunch. Joyce and I didn't like anything on the menu so we told the driver to eat while we walked around. I was looking in a shop while some very young girl with a baby strapped to her back stood watching me. I thought I was looking at sarongs or cloth - I lifted the hanger and it was a lovely sundress for a girl. I held it up to the little girl, it looked like it would fit her. I asked the woman how much? She told me $3.50 - I bought it for $2.50 and gave it to the little girl. She seemed happy - she smiled and smiled. The mother came over about then and took the bag with the dress. Hopefully the child got to keep it.
We were back on the road to Phonsovan arriving about 2:30.
We went by a guest house and I went in to look at it. It didn't have air, just a fan so I wanted to keep looking. We went to two more places that were worse. Someone told us that none of the places in Phonsovan have A/C because it is so cool at night. We went back to the first place and took a room for $8 a night.
As soon as we registered and threw our stuff in the room we took off for the1st Jar Field. There were 334 jars at this site which were carved from boulders using a chisel and hammer. There are believed to have been made between 500 BC and 500 AD as vessels for elaborate death rituals. The dead were placed in the urns until the body decomposed before being cremated. We walked down to the cave where the cremations were done. You might wonder if you've seen one jar field haven't you seen them all? In a way yes but I liked the 3rd field the best because it was so much fun getting to it. We had to walk across an old bamboo bridge, walk on a narrow path alo9ng rice patties, climb over bamboo fences, jump over small streams and climb a hill. It was dark by the time we got back from this one.
We went with the driver to eat when we got back to town. Joyce gets car sick so going over the mountains was two days of misery for her.
Monday, October 23, 2006
10-21 (Saturday) Luang Prabang
I left the guest house (Jaliya) early while Joyce stayed behind. I went down to the local Saturday market. It was located on a long street one street away from the Mekong. This one had the usual fruits and vegetables plus some vegetables I hadn't seen before. It had areas where people were cooking breakfast and people selling clothes. The things I saw for eating that were unusual were: moles (live), birds ( plucked and unplucked), snake (dead), chipmunk (dead), crickets (live), white puffy grub worms that live in cells similar to a wasp nest (live.) Of course the usual plucked chickens and ducks.
I forgot to say that yesterday our driver chowed down on a couple of tasty crickets before we crossed the river to the cave.
I walked along the river observing the daily life of the people then met Joyce around 9:00 and had breakfast. We walked along the main drag going in shops we hadn't been in previously. In one shop they sold the most beautiful necklaces (my weakness) but the prices were sky high ($350 US) Needless to say I walked out empty handed. Some of the other stores were just as expensive - the same thing I bought in the market for $4 they were charging $65!!
We decided to go to the museum but when we got there it was closed for lunch so we walked through the market. We ate lunch outside at the nice hotel where we had eaten the first night. It was so hot that we went back to the guest house to cool off and rest.
Around 4:30 we set out to climb to the temple where everyone goes to see the sunset. We went up the back way along a lovely tree shaded narrow path after walking through a small community. The people that go up the front way (the way we went down) had many more steps to climb than we did. The top was jammed with tourists all trying to get the perfect shot as the sun went down over Luang Prabang and the Mekong.
We went back to the night market. I took pictures of a hilltribe woman who was selling her wares. She dressed me up in some of the clothes she was selling and Joyce took our picture. Naturally she wanted me to buy something from her. I inquired about the cheap shirt I had tried on - she wanted $8. I ended up giving her $3 but it wasn't worth 50 cents. When I got it home I washed it and most of the color came out. The top fastner was broken!
We walked along the river where they had many restaurants. Some of them looked so nice with white tablecloths and twinkley lights - very romantic. We walked on and finally decided on a French Restaurant on one of the side streets. I had a glass of wine and we split chicken with lemon grass sauce. It was wonderful. We ordered sticky rice because it has been on every menu and we hadn't known what it was. We found out why it is called sticky rice - it sticks to the spoon, to the fork and to your teeth. I didn't think it had much taste. For dessert I had some sort of apple concoction with a caramel ice cream on top - to die for. Two American (Seattle) women came in and sat down next to us. They looked as old as we are but were probably younger. They were the most interesting people we have me so far on our trip bar none. They had traveled down the river on the slow boat from Kunming, China into part of Thailand then into Lao. They were going on through Lao to Cambodia to Saigon and on to Hanoi. They were both well traveled but one even more than the other - she has been EVERYWHERE! She was so interesting. The killer is that they don't mind the slow boat! We were in shock over that. We couldn't stop talking about it all night.
I left the guest house (Jaliya) early while Joyce stayed behind. I went down to the local Saturday market. It was located on a long street one street away from the Mekong. This one had the usual fruits and vegetables plus some vegetables I hadn't seen before. It had areas where people were cooking breakfast and people selling clothes. The things I saw for eating that were unusual were: moles (live), birds ( plucked and unplucked), snake (dead), chipmunk (dead), crickets (live), white puffy grub worms that live in cells similar to a wasp nest (live.) Of course the usual plucked chickens and ducks.
I forgot to say that yesterday our driver chowed down on a couple of tasty crickets before we crossed the river to the cave.
I walked along the river observing the daily life of the people then met Joyce around 9:00 and had breakfast. We walked along the main drag going in shops we hadn't been in previously. In one shop they sold the most beautiful necklaces (my weakness) but the prices were sky high ($350 US) Needless to say I walked out empty handed. Some of the other stores were just as expensive - the same thing I bought in the market for $4 they were charging $65!!
We decided to go to the museum but when we got there it was closed for lunch so we walked through the market. We ate lunch outside at the nice hotel where we had eaten the first night. It was so hot that we went back to the guest house to cool off and rest.
Around 4:30 we set out to climb to the temple where everyone goes to see the sunset. We went up the back way along a lovely tree shaded narrow path after walking through a small community. The people that go up the front way (the way we went down) had many more steps to climb than we did. The top was jammed with tourists all trying to get the perfect shot as the sun went down over Luang Prabang and the Mekong.
We went back to the night market. I took pictures of a hilltribe woman who was selling her wares. She dressed me up in some of the clothes she was selling and Joyce took our picture. Naturally she wanted me to buy something from her. I inquired about the cheap shirt I had tried on - she wanted $8. I ended up giving her $3 but it wasn't worth 50 cents. When I got it home I washed it and most of the color came out. The top fastner was broken!
We walked along the river where they had many restaurants. Some of them looked so nice with white tablecloths and twinkley lights - very romantic. We walked on and finally decided on a French Restaurant on one of the side streets. I had a glass of wine and we split chicken with lemon grass sauce. It was wonderful. We ordered sticky rice because it has been on every menu and we hadn't known what it was. We found out why it is called sticky rice - it sticks to the spoon, to the fork and to your teeth. I didn't think it had much taste. For dessert I had some sort of apple concoction with a caramel ice cream on top - to die for. Two American (Seattle) women came in and sat down next to us. They looked as old as we are but were probably younger. They were the most interesting people we have me so far on our trip bar none. They had traveled down the river on the slow boat from Kunming, China into part of Thailand then into Lao. They were going on through Lao to Cambodia to Saigon and on to Hanoi. They were both well traveled but one even more than the other - she has been EVERYWHERE! She was so interesting. The killer is that they don't mind the slow boat! We were in shock over that. We couldn't stop talking about it all night.
Friday, October 20, 2006
10-20 (Friday) Touring . . .
This morning we had an early breakfast after a restless night. Joyce couldn’t sleep because the bed and pillow were terrible. Both of our bottom sheets came off during the night!
We hired a guy to take us to a cave where there are over 5,000 Buddhas. We could either go by slow boat or road. We weren’t about to get back on the slow boat for another two hours. On our way to the cave we stopped at Whiskey Village so named because they make a lot of whiskey there. They have a huge still and they put some of the whiskey in bottles with snakes or scorpions. They had little cobras and other snakes in the bottles. Joyce bought a purse from some woman for $3 then it blew out of the truck before we got to the cave. We didn’t see it blow out until it was too late.
When we arrived, the cave was across the river so we had to take a very small wooden boat across. The cave was interesting. Then we walked up 226 steps to the top of the mountain to see a second cave. When we got back across the river in our boat we were headed back to our truck walking past all the souvenir stands. Some woman held up the purse Joyce bought at Whiskey Village. Joyce and I were so happy that someone had found it. Our happiness was short lived. The woman wanted to sell it back to Joyce for more than she paid for it. NO way.
We drove back to Luang Prabang and had lunch.
We had our same driver pick us up in an hour and this time he took us to a very famous waterfall. It was breathtaking. We hiked up to the top of it. I was still in my flip flops because of my toe so it was hard going. I fell once. They have an animal rescue facility out there. There is a tiger in one enclosure and Asian bears in another. These are or were babies that had been rescued after their mothers were poached. Brad, someone said the bears were Sun Bears. Did the one that chased you have a white V on its chest?
A guy from Ireland who had bicycled three hours out to the waterfall got a ride back in our truck. It turned out he was staying in our same guest house. He is traveling with three of his buddies for two years. They have just been on the road for 7 weeks. Two of his friends got water in their eyes when they were on the slow boat (the day before we came in.) He said both guy’s eyes are very swollen and grotesque. I asked it they had been to a doctor and he said they couldn’t find one. They went to the local pharmacy and got drops to put in their eyes. He said they are a little better.
Joyce and I started off for town when we got back. We were going to climb to the top of a very tall hill where there is a pagoda to see the sunset. We were part way there when I discovered that I have a big blister between my toes from my new flip flops. I decided I’d better go back to the hotel and doctor my toe before it gets infected. I’m hoping to be able to get back into my tennis shoes tomorrow.
This morning we had an early breakfast after a restless night. Joyce couldn’t sleep because the bed and pillow were terrible. Both of our bottom sheets came off during the night!
We hired a guy to take us to a cave where there are over 5,000 Buddhas. We could either go by slow boat or road. We weren’t about to get back on the slow boat for another two hours. On our way to the cave we stopped at Whiskey Village so named because they make a lot of whiskey there. They have a huge still and they put some of the whiskey in bottles with snakes or scorpions. They had little cobras and other snakes in the bottles. Joyce bought a purse from some woman for $3 then it blew out of the truck before we got to the cave. We didn’t see it blow out until it was too late.
When we arrived, the cave was across the river so we had to take a very small wooden boat across. The cave was interesting. Then we walked up 226 steps to the top of the mountain to see a second cave. When we got back across the river in our boat we were headed back to our truck walking past all the souvenir stands. Some woman held up the purse Joyce bought at Whiskey Village. Joyce and I were so happy that someone had found it. Our happiness was short lived. The woman wanted to sell it back to Joyce for more than she paid for it. NO way.
We drove back to Luang Prabang and had lunch.
We had our same driver pick us up in an hour and this time he took us to a very famous waterfall. It was breathtaking. We hiked up to the top of it. I was still in my flip flops because of my toe so it was hard going. I fell once. They have an animal rescue facility out there. There is a tiger in one enclosure and Asian bears in another. These are or were babies that had been rescued after their mothers were poached. Brad, someone said the bears were Sun Bears. Did the one that chased you have a white V on its chest?
A guy from Ireland who had bicycled three hours out to the waterfall got a ride back in our truck. It turned out he was staying in our same guest house. He is traveling with three of his buddies for two years. They have just been on the road for 7 weeks. Two of his friends got water in their eyes when they were on the slow boat (the day before we came in.) He said both guy’s eyes are very swollen and grotesque. I asked it they had been to a doctor and he said they couldn’t find one. They went to the local pharmacy and got drops to put in their eyes. He said they are a little better.
Joyce and I started off for town when we got back. We were going to climb to the top of a very tall hill where there is a pagoda to see the sunset. We were part way there when I discovered that I have a big blister between my toes from my new flip flops. I decided I’d better go back to the hotel and doctor my toe before it gets infected. I’m hoping to be able to get back into my tennis shoes tomorrow.
19-19 (Thursday) Luang Prabang
We got up early and had breakfast at our hotel before heading out. We took a tuk tuk to town to look over a couple more guest houses before our move. We ran into the Chiang Mai couple again, He is originally from Jacksonville (the 2nd one we’ve met from there.) They have been traveling together for 10 years! I asked him if he was on Social Security but he said, “no” he’s only 53. He looks much older. They have been around the world four times. He used to be an optical engineer and she’s from Spain. She taught Spainish in Calif where he was working. He sold his house, his business, everything and they have been traveling ever since. They are thinking of going to Chili from here. They usually stay in a place 4 to 6 months. Very interesting couple.
We decided on a guest house we saw yesterday. We went back to the empty hotel and moved our stuff.
We walked downtown to talk to people about other tours, then had lunch. We went into an internet during the heat of the day, back to the guest house to do laundry and put some things away. We went back to the night market and paid for a trip to the Plain of Jars on Sunday.
I love this country and the people.
We got up early and had breakfast at our hotel before heading out. We took a tuk tuk to town to look over a couple more guest houses before our move. We ran into the Chiang Mai couple again, He is originally from Jacksonville (the 2nd one we’ve met from there.) They have been traveling together for 10 years! I asked him if he was on Social Security but he said, “no” he’s only 53. He looks much older. They have been around the world four times. He used to be an optical engineer and she’s from Spain. She taught Spainish in Calif where he was working. He sold his house, his business, everything and they have been traveling ever since. They are thinking of going to Chili from here. They usually stay in a place 4 to 6 months. Very interesting couple.
We decided on a guest house we saw yesterday. We went back to the empty hotel and moved our stuff.
We walked downtown to talk to people about other tours, then had lunch. We went into an internet during the heat of the day, back to the guest house to do laundry and put some things away. We went back to the night market and paid for a trip to the Plain of Jars on Sunday.
I love this country and the people.
10-18 (Wednesday) The African Queen . . .
All the electric in the community went out at 11:30 last night so we were without our wonderful fan. It actually got very cool during the night.
It was still off when the rooster woke us up at 5:30. The hotel staff fixed breakfast over a charcoal fire. I toasted my own Baggett. The porters were waiting outside our room by 7:00. They liked last night’s tips! We loaded them up and headed to the boat by 78:00 for our 9:00 departure. We gave them each $2 US. That was a fortune but well worth it to us. Today we had a different boat - yesterday we had the Queen Mary today the African Queen. Both boats were equipped to hold around 70 people but they crammed 92 of us on plus the crew and locals going to who know where. In the very front around the captain’s wheel they shoved 10 people plus three crew. The passengers could lean against the side of the boat but their legs had to be either folded or stuck out in front of them. We had the same wooden benches to sit on but no padding like yesterday. Today the benches weren’t bolted to the floor so they could be slightly adjusted. Each one had a wooden slat across the bottom that you cold use as a foot rest.
Cruising down the river . . .
We see elephants working at a log camp, more white water to go through, whirlpools galore.
Cruising down the river . . .
Now it starts to thunder, now it starts to sprinkle, now it is torrential rain. We pull down the tarps on the sides of the boat while our new captain (the hilltribe captain got off about 2 hours ago) heads for shelter. Next to the seat in front of us the tarp is torn and those people are getting soaked. The people right across the aisle from us have NO tarp at all – they are drenched! Lovely cruise! All first class! The rain finally subsides and we continue cruising. The scenery is breathtaking – jungle on both sides and mountains. Sometimes the mountains are very close – we are a speck in the water floating between them, at other times they are farther away but always with us. This country is beautiful. People say Vietnam is beautiful and it is but they need to come here and see this place.
It get to be 3:00 and everyone begins looking for Luang Prabang. We’re all sick of the boat. We begin to see signs of a city . . . more boat traffic, a TV or radio tower and finally . . . a road with cars! YEAH! We endured!
We dock at the bottom of a paved incline. The backpackers start grabbing their stuff. The crew is tossing out the luggage. We’re thinking – “How are we going to get our bags to the top of the hill?” There is a barricade, no tuk tuks or trucks are allowed to come down to the boat. We feel despair. Finally someone asks if we need help. We agree to pay 20 bhat (50 cents) for 2 guys to haul our bags to the top of the hill. We get in a truck/tuk tuk with another couple. We agree on $3 (down from $5.) The driver said our hotel was a long way and he was right. It was far out of town. We drove up to a BEAUTIFUL hotel that looked like a villa. Someone working on the grounds came over to help with our luggage. Instinct told me to show him the name of our hotel. He shook his head, “No.” He told the driver where to take us. It was still a distance from town. When we checked in the girls at the desk acted totally surprised to see us. They got out a big book and found our reservation. They took us up to the room – no elevator. I went downstairs to do something. When I went upstairs again I hear Joyce saying, “This isn’t going to work.” She was right, there was only on big bed in the room. We told them we had to have two beds. No problem – we appeared to be the only two staying in the whole hotel! After we threw down our stuff we ran out and got a tuk tuk to take us into town. We had guest house cards so we stopped off to try to find a place to move to in the morning. We found one we both liked for $12 but decided on a $15 room at the same place since it was bigger. We walked to town. We saw a real nice hotel and we went in to inquire about their rooms - $60 – forget it! We had dinner there for $3 each and it was delicious!
We walked to the night market where they had fabulous silks and other interesting things. We went on into town and inquired about some tours at different agencies.
We ran into a couple we met in Chiang Mai. We chatted with them for a long time and then took a tuk tuk back to our empty hotel.
When I was on the boat I kept feeling like I was sitting on a rough piece of wood and that I was getting a sliver in by butt or I was sitting on a nail. When I took off my shorts tonight I assume it was a nail because it tore a BIG hole in the seat of my shorts.
All the electric in the community went out at 11:30 last night so we were without our wonderful fan. It actually got very cool during the night.
It was still off when the rooster woke us up at 5:30. The hotel staff fixed breakfast over a charcoal fire. I toasted my own Baggett. The porters were waiting outside our room by 7:00. They liked last night’s tips! We loaded them up and headed to the boat by 78:00 for our 9:00 departure. We gave them each $2 US. That was a fortune but well worth it to us. Today we had a different boat - yesterday we had the Queen Mary today the African Queen. Both boats were equipped to hold around 70 people but they crammed 92 of us on plus the crew and locals going to who know where. In the very front around the captain’s wheel they shoved 10 people plus three crew. The passengers could lean against the side of the boat but their legs had to be either folded or stuck out in front of them. We had the same wooden benches to sit on but no padding like yesterday. Today the benches weren’t bolted to the floor so they could be slightly adjusted. Each one had a wooden slat across the bottom that you cold use as a foot rest.
Cruising down the river . . .
We see elephants working at a log camp, more white water to go through, whirlpools galore.
Cruising down the river . . .
Now it starts to thunder, now it starts to sprinkle, now it is torrential rain. We pull down the tarps on the sides of the boat while our new captain (the hilltribe captain got off about 2 hours ago) heads for shelter. Next to the seat in front of us the tarp is torn and those people are getting soaked. The people right across the aisle from us have NO tarp at all – they are drenched! Lovely cruise! All first class! The rain finally subsides and we continue cruising. The scenery is breathtaking – jungle on both sides and mountains. Sometimes the mountains are very close – we are a speck in the water floating between them, at other times they are farther away but always with us. This country is beautiful. People say Vietnam is beautiful and it is but they need to come here and see this place.
It get to be 3:00 and everyone begins looking for Luang Prabang. We’re all sick of the boat. We begin to see signs of a city . . . more boat traffic, a TV or radio tower and finally . . . a road with cars! YEAH! We endured!
We dock at the bottom of a paved incline. The backpackers start grabbing their stuff. The crew is tossing out the luggage. We’re thinking – “How are we going to get our bags to the top of the hill?” There is a barricade, no tuk tuks or trucks are allowed to come down to the boat. We feel despair. Finally someone asks if we need help. We agree to pay 20 bhat (50 cents) for 2 guys to haul our bags to the top of the hill. We get in a truck/tuk tuk with another couple. We agree on $3 (down from $5.) The driver said our hotel was a long way and he was right. It was far out of town. We drove up to a BEAUTIFUL hotel that looked like a villa. Someone working on the grounds came over to help with our luggage. Instinct told me to show him the name of our hotel. He shook his head, “No.” He told the driver where to take us. It was still a distance from town. When we checked in the girls at the desk acted totally surprised to see us. They got out a big book and found our reservation. They took us up to the room – no elevator. I went downstairs to do something. When I went upstairs again I hear Joyce saying, “This isn’t going to work.” She was right, there was only on big bed in the room. We told them we had to have two beds. No problem – we appeared to be the only two staying in the whole hotel! After we threw down our stuff we ran out and got a tuk tuk to take us into town. We had guest house cards so we stopped off to try to find a place to move to in the morning. We found one we both liked for $12 but decided on a $15 room at the same place since it was bigger. We walked to town. We saw a real nice hotel and we went in to inquire about their rooms - $60 – forget it! We had dinner there for $3 each and it was delicious!
We walked to the night market where they had fabulous silks and other interesting things. We went on into town and inquired about some tours at different agencies.
We ran into a couple we met in Chiang Mai. We chatted with them for a long time and then took a tuk tuk back to our empty hotel.
When I was on the boat I kept feeling like I was sitting on a rough piece of wood and that I was getting a sliver in by butt or I was sitting on a nail. When I took off my shorts tonight I assume it was a nail because it tore a BIG hole in the seat of my shorts.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
10-17 (Tuesday) Cruising Down the River
I woke up sick as a dog with stomach problems. Joyce went on to breakfast without me because I couldn't leave the room until later. I think it was the "oj" from last night that made me sick. I was finally able to eat some eggs and toast with tea. I drank LOTS of water.
Last night's agent came to pick us up at 9:30. He had our passports and visas. He loaded everything in his truck and drove us to the river. First they put all our bags in the long boat we were going to take across the river (Mekong Delta) from the Thailand side to the Lao side. We got in with other local passengers and off we went.
There was a guy to meet us on the Lao side. He told us to go to the passport control. About this time I was getting sick again. I had to use the squat at the border crossing. It wasn't real clean but it didn't smell. I had taken some of Joyce's Cipro and 2 Peptos.
They loaded our bags on top of a truck and crammed 10 of us into the back. Thank goodness we were the first two in because the fumes from the back of the truck were about to gag everyone. We were drived to another river location not far away. We got a flat tire just as we arrived. Joyce and I feel about our luggage like Dinki and I did . . . we're ready to pay any amount to have someone carry it for us.
Many people got on the boat ahead of us. After our guy finished taking care of all our passprts AGAIN we were able to get on. The first group had all grabbed one wooden bench seat to themselves. I went back 4 seats and told the girl I was sorry but I'd be sitting with her. She immediately moved to the seat ahead with her friend so Joyce and I were able to sit together. The hard wooden bench we were sitting on did have a very thin cushion on it. I whipped out my tape and measured the depth of the seat (front to back.) It was 11 inches. From the back of the seat to the front of the one in front of us was 12 1/4 inches. This boat ride made coach in a plane look like the lap of luxury.
There were 70 seats on the boat and they stuffed over 90 of us on. The luggage was stacked to the roof in the front and back. The boat was open on the sides but had a covering.
The captain was a hilltribe guy. He wore a loose weave blue cotton tunic and pants. A multi colored sash mostly red. A silver necklace, siver bracelets and a large silver ring. Over his shoulder he had a colorful bag like the hilltribes use. He had a silver knife stuck in his waistband and a baseball cap on his head!
We didn't depart until 11:00. It didn't take long to figure out we were in for 7 hours of misery. At least my stomach medicine had started to kick in. I don't know how the men on the boat stood it because there was NO leg room and they have longer legs than we do. Some of them began sitting on the sides of the boat. I think still others went to the roof.
I have been wearing the same shirt everyday since we were at Inle Lake in Myanmar. You will be happy to know that I wash it every night. It is driving Joyce nuts - at first she would just hint about it but lately she has offered to buy me a new one, has started telling me how bad it looks (it doesn not!) Today she said I was worse than a bag lady with my shirt and wearing 2 hats - my baseball cap with a coolie hat on top! Of course none of this bothers me and I don't pay any attention to her. I did break down and tell her that the 1st time I went to Europe I wore a dress 21 days straight. I told her my travel companions kept trying to hide it from me. Joyce has already said she's going to hide or throw my shirt away. It looks great so I'm not getting rid of it!
We were riding up river with 3 canasters of gass about6 feet from our seats.
We stopped to let off some locals and pick up one or two. One was a man with 3 huge sacks of rice.
One of the girls in front of me was very smart and went to the front where the luggage was - there was a space to sit down there and you could stretch out your legs. She made the big mistake of getting up and going back to sit with her friend. As soon as she did I pounced on that space. I stayed there until Joyce came and took my place. We held onto that spot until we stopped for the evening at 5:00. We were thrilled to be stopping that early. We thought it was going to be 6 or 7:00.
We pulled into a mud flat that led to mud steps that went straight up a very high bank. Thank goodness there were boys there wanting to make money. There was NO way we could have gotten our bags up that hill, we could barely get ourselves up it.
We walked to a hotel that was owned by the same group as where we stayed the night before. We gave our porters 60 bhat - about $1.60. They were thrilled and so were we. We told them to be at the hotel at 8:00 the next day to carry the stuff back to the boat. They were only too happpy to do it. Tomorrow we are going to give them each $2.00 US.
The room was nicer in a way than the night before. It had very clean blue tile on the floors. The bathroom was the same set-up except that there was NO hot water. Also at thisplace we only had a bottom sheet and a thin blanket to top. Last night we had an A/C for what it was worth, tonight a fan on the ceiling. Our windows here had good screens but the edges didn't fit real tight so Joyce spent a long time putting duct tape all around them to keep out the bugs.
We went to the hotel restaurant jand had really greasy french fries for dinner. They were so greasy that I wiped each one off with my one ply, half sheet toilet paper napkin!
My stomach was so much better and my toe was feeling a little better too. I still had to wear my flip flops because of my toe so that made it hard to walk through muddy places and up steep enbankments.
We took cold showers which actually felt pretty good and got ready for another enjoyable 6 hours or crusing !
I woke up sick as a dog with stomach problems. Joyce went on to breakfast without me because I couldn't leave the room until later. I think it was the "oj" from last night that made me sick. I was finally able to eat some eggs and toast with tea. I drank LOTS of water.
Last night's agent came to pick us up at 9:30. He had our passports and visas. He loaded everything in his truck and drove us to the river. First they put all our bags in the long boat we were going to take across the river (Mekong Delta) from the Thailand side to the Lao side. We got in with other local passengers and off we went.
There was a guy to meet us on the Lao side. He told us to go to the passport control. About this time I was getting sick again. I had to use the squat at the border crossing. It wasn't real clean but it didn't smell. I had taken some of Joyce's Cipro and 2 Peptos.
They loaded our bags on top of a truck and crammed 10 of us into the back. Thank goodness we were the first two in because the fumes from the back of the truck were about to gag everyone. We were drived to another river location not far away. We got a flat tire just as we arrived. Joyce and I feel about our luggage like Dinki and I did . . . we're ready to pay any amount to have someone carry it for us.
Many people got on the boat ahead of us. After our guy finished taking care of all our passprts AGAIN we were able to get on. The first group had all grabbed one wooden bench seat to themselves. I went back 4 seats and told the girl I was sorry but I'd be sitting with her. She immediately moved to the seat ahead with her friend so Joyce and I were able to sit together. The hard wooden bench we were sitting on did have a very thin cushion on it. I whipped out my tape and measured the depth of the seat (front to back.) It was 11 inches. From the back of the seat to the front of the one in front of us was 12 1/4 inches. This boat ride made coach in a plane look like the lap of luxury.
There were 70 seats on the boat and they stuffed over 90 of us on. The luggage was stacked to the roof in the front and back. The boat was open on the sides but had a covering.
The captain was a hilltribe guy. He wore a loose weave blue cotton tunic and pants. A multi colored sash mostly red. A silver necklace, siver bracelets and a large silver ring. Over his shoulder he had a colorful bag like the hilltribes use. He had a silver knife stuck in his waistband and a baseball cap on his head!
We didn't depart until 11:00. It didn't take long to figure out we were in for 7 hours of misery. At least my stomach medicine had started to kick in. I don't know how the men on the boat stood it because there was NO leg room and they have longer legs than we do. Some of them began sitting on the sides of the boat. I think still others went to the roof.
I have been wearing the same shirt everyday since we were at Inle Lake in Myanmar. You will be happy to know that I wash it every night. It is driving Joyce nuts - at first she would just hint about it but lately she has offered to buy me a new one, has started telling me how bad it looks (it doesn not!) Today she said I was worse than a bag lady with my shirt and wearing 2 hats - my baseball cap with a coolie hat on top! Of course none of this bothers me and I don't pay any attention to her. I did break down and tell her that the 1st time I went to Europe I wore a dress 21 days straight. I told her my travel companions kept trying to hide it from me. Joyce has already said she's going to hide or throw my shirt away. It looks great so I'm not getting rid of it!
We were riding up river with 3 canasters of gass about6 feet from our seats.
We stopped to let off some locals and pick up one or two. One was a man with 3 huge sacks of rice.
One of the girls in front of me was very smart and went to the front where the luggage was - there was a space to sit down there and you could stretch out your legs. She made the big mistake of getting up and going back to sit with her friend. As soon as she did I pounced on that space. I stayed there until Joyce came and took my place. We held onto that spot until we stopped for the evening at 5:00. We were thrilled to be stopping that early. We thought it was going to be 6 or 7:00.
We pulled into a mud flat that led to mud steps that went straight up a very high bank. Thank goodness there were boys there wanting to make money. There was NO way we could have gotten our bags up that hill, we could barely get ourselves up it.
We walked to a hotel that was owned by the same group as where we stayed the night before. We gave our porters 60 bhat - about $1.60. They were thrilled and so were we. We told them to be at the hotel at 8:00 the next day to carry the stuff back to the boat. They were only too happpy to do it. Tomorrow we are going to give them each $2.00 US.
The room was nicer in a way than the night before. It had very clean blue tile on the floors. The bathroom was the same set-up except that there was NO hot water. Also at thisplace we only had a bottom sheet and a thin blanket to top. Last night we had an A/C for what it was worth, tonight a fan on the ceiling. Our windows here had good screens but the edges didn't fit real tight so Joyce spent a long time putting duct tape all around them to keep out the bugs.
We went to the hotel restaurant jand had really greasy french fries for dinner. They were so greasy that I wiped each one off with my one ply, half sheet toilet paper napkin!
My stomach was so much better and my toe was feeling a little better too. I still had to wear my flip flops because of my toe so that made it hard to walk through muddy places and up steep enbankments.
We took cold showers which actually felt pretty good and got ready for another enjoyable 6 hours or crusing !
10-16 (Monday)
We took a red cab downtown and discovered a new shopping mall. This always happens when we're ready to leave a place. I cased a $100 check and Joyce bought a luggage strap.
Mr. Patrick (our travel agent) picked us up at noon and drove us to the bus station. He had gotten us seats in the very front of the bus. It ws a vey narrow bench seat for two. The other side was a bench seat for three. It remeinded me of the bus in Uganda. We were lucky to hve the seats he got us. Another young driver! We whizzed up and down the mountain roads. We stopped several times for a bathroom break. Believe it or not the squats were bearable. They didn't stink. We would stop whenever people wanted so they could get off in the countryside. Seven hours later we pulled into Chiang Khong. No one was there jto meet us but some girl who spoke excellent English was there tyring to sell her guesthouse. We decided to sign on with her. We had our suitcases on her truck with all the other backpackers when some guy came up looking for us. He said for us to get in a tuk tuk which would take us to our hotel. We did. Our room was very basic - two beds, TV and an A/C! The bathroom was one of those with a handle hanging on the wall for the shower. You could sit on the toilet and take a shower. The travel agent rep. came and said we had to go to dinner because it was included! We went even though we didn't want to. They gave us fruit which was fine: banana, watermellon and pineapple. I had a couple sips out of the "oj" they gave us. It tasted funny. We paid the travel agent rep $48 for a visa to Lao. $38 for the visa and $10 for the bribe so we wouldn't have to wait in line with everyone else the next morning to get it. When we got back to the room I took a shower and went to bed so I would be ready to go up river the next morning.
We took a red cab downtown and discovered a new shopping mall. This always happens when we're ready to leave a place. I cased a $100 check and Joyce bought a luggage strap.
Mr. Patrick (our travel agent) picked us up at noon and drove us to the bus station. He had gotten us seats in the very front of the bus. It ws a vey narrow bench seat for two. The other side was a bench seat for three. It remeinded me of the bus in Uganda. We were lucky to hve the seats he got us. Another young driver! We whizzed up and down the mountain roads. We stopped several times for a bathroom break. Believe it or not the squats were bearable. They didn't stink. We would stop whenever people wanted so they could get off in the countryside. Seven hours later we pulled into Chiang Khong. No one was there jto meet us but some girl who spoke excellent English was there tyring to sell her guesthouse. We decided to sign on with her. We had our suitcases on her truck with all the other backpackers when some guy came up looking for us. He said for us to get in a tuk tuk which would take us to our hotel. We did. Our room was very basic - two beds, TV and an A/C! The bathroom was one of those with a handle hanging on the wall for the shower. You could sit on the toilet and take a shower. The travel agent rep. came and said we had to go to dinner because it was included! We went even though we didn't want to. They gave us fruit which was fine: banana, watermellon and pineapple. I had a couple sips out of the "oj" they gave us. It tasted funny. We paid the travel agent rep $48 for a visa to Lao. $38 for the visa and $10 for the bribe so we wouldn't have to wait in line with everyone else the next morning to get it. When we got back to the room I took a shower and went to bed so I would be ready to go up river the next morning.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
10-16 Monday Thank you
Thank you Roxy and Gail for telling me what to do about my toe. I did find some epsom salt last night but then the hotel was out of hot water so it didn't do any good to soak my toe. Today I have done everything you two told me.
Last night we went back to the local night market where we were yesterday afternoon. I can't let a painful toe slow me down. It was packed with people and many more streets and stalls had opened up. We saw all kinds of good stuff to buy but where are we going to put it? We know we'll be buying in Lao! We got another massage. Joyce had another foot one and I had the neck, shoulders, arms, hands and head. Fabulous.
When we got back to the hotel we tried to repack everything. Somehow we got it all in.
This morning we went to one of the shopping areas to get a strap for the new suitcase Joyce bought here in Chiang Mai. We also went to the bank and I cashed more money! I have got to quit shopping. We also had the bank break down some of our 1,000 bills. We know we won't be able to get change for them in Lao. We just heard from Wired Destinations about 5 minutes ago. We have a room for the first night in Laung Prabang. We're going to try to get something cheaper when we get there.
We're waiting for Mr. Patrick from the travel agency to pick us up and take us to the bus which will drive us about 5-6 hours where we will spend the night before picking up the slow boat the next morning.
Thank you Roxy and Gail for telling me what to do about my toe. I did find some epsom salt last night but then the hotel was out of hot water so it didn't do any good to soak my toe. Today I have done everything you two told me.
Last night we went back to the local night market where we were yesterday afternoon. I can't let a painful toe slow me down. It was packed with people and many more streets and stalls had opened up. We saw all kinds of good stuff to buy but where are we going to put it? We know we'll be buying in Lao! We got another massage. Joyce had another foot one and I had the neck, shoulders, arms, hands and head. Fabulous.
When we got back to the hotel we tried to repack everything. Somehow we got it all in.
This morning we went to one of the shopping areas to get a strap for the new suitcase Joyce bought here in Chiang Mai. We also went to the bank and I cashed more money! I have got to quit shopping. We also had the bank break down some of our 1,000 bills. We know we won't be able to get change for them in Lao. We just heard from Wired Destinations about 5 minutes ago. We have a room for the first night in Laung Prabang. We're going to try to get something cheaper when we get there.
We're waiting for Mr. Patrick from the travel agency to pick us up and take us to the bus which will drive us about 5-6 hours where we will spend the night before picking up the slow boat the next morning.
11-15 (Sunday)
This morning we when to a chemist shop. I got some pills for sleep although I'm currently doing much better. The guy assured me they would keep me asleep for eight hours. Promises, promises.
It was fairly cool when we started out this morning and we only walked on the shady side of the streets. We went back to "Jacksonville's" store and I bought a really neat necklace that came from the hilltribes. It was expensive but I wanted it! We had lunch then decided to go to Starbucks for dessert. We were on our way back to the hotel because by the time we came out of "Jacksonville's" store my big toe was starting to hurt. I could hardly walk so I wanted to get my tennis shoes off and put on my flip flops. While we were eating our dessert we looked across the street and saw the locals setting up for the promised local market. We were thrilled. I decided to forget about my pain and limp as best as I could to the market. We stayed there for hours and I bought so many things. We ended the market shopping with an hour's foot massage. I told the guy to be careful of my toe - I think my toenail is ingrown. He wanted to cut it but I said, "No." I didn't want him using dirty insturnments on me and causing more problems. We had cashed checks earlier in the day, now I'm going to have to go back and cash some more because I spent so much money. We can use our bhats in Lao so it won't matter if I have too many. Their (Lao) money is like Myanmar money, it isn't worth anything.
We took a red taxi back to the hotel since I couldn't walk. We unloaded our loot, had "show and tell" and now we're at the net. We plan to go back to the market tonight when it is cooler. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do about my toe? If I could get some ebson salt I think that would help to soak it but I'm not hopeful of getting it. Suggestions? Help!
This morning we when to a chemist shop. I got some pills for sleep although I'm currently doing much better. The guy assured me they would keep me asleep for eight hours. Promises, promises.
It was fairly cool when we started out this morning and we only walked on the shady side of the streets. We went back to "Jacksonville's" store and I bought a really neat necklace that came from the hilltribes. It was expensive but I wanted it! We had lunch then decided to go to Starbucks for dessert. We were on our way back to the hotel because by the time we came out of "Jacksonville's" store my big toe was starting to hurt. I could hardly walk so I wanted to get my tennis shoes off and put on my flip flops. While we were eating our dessert we looked across the street and saw the locals setting up for the promised local market. We were thrilled. I decided to forget about my pain and limp as best as I could to the market. We stayed there for hours and I bought so many things. We ended the market shopping with an hour's foot massage. I told the guy to be careful of my toe - I think my toenail is ingrown. He wanted to cut it but I said, "No." I didn't want him using dirty insturnments on me and causing more problems. We had cashed checks earlier in the day, now I'm going to have to go back and cash some more because I spent so much money. We can use our bhats in Lao so it won't matter if I have too many. Their (Lao) money is like Myanmar money, it isn't worth anything.
We took a red taxi back to the hotel since I couldn't walk. We unloaded our loot, had "show and tell" and now we're at the net. We plan to go back to the market tonight when it is cooler. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do about my toe? If I could get some ebson salt I think that would help to soak it but I'm not hopeful of getting it. Suggestions? Help!
11-14 (Saturday)
We didn't get up until 7 a.m. Wonderful! Breakfast (that came with the room ) was wonderful - scrambled eggs, pancakes, fruit, rice, all kinds of bread and toast. We met some guy and his mother (from Calif) last night on the way to the night market. They were at breakfast. He was asking us about where to go and what to see in Asia. His mother is going home in another couple of weeks but he is staying until May.
After breakfast we talked to a travel agent about taking the slow boat (not to China but ) to Luang Prabang in Lao. We think we're going to leave Monday. We also made plane reservations to fly from Lao to Hanoi on the 25th of this month.
The market that was suppose to be so wonderful? Well, we never found it and the locals never heard of it! BUT . . . they assure us that tomorrow (Sunday) there is a wonderful local market . . . we'll see.
Tonight we did something different . . . we had dinner in a restaurant!
It is really hot here and it totally saps my energy. I was exhausted when we got back to the hotel.
We didn't get up until 7 a.m. Wonderful! Breakfast (that came with the room ) was wonderful - scrambled eggs, pancakes, fruit, rice, all kinds of bread and toast. We met some guy and his mother (from Calif) last night on the way to the night market. They were at breakfast. He was asking us about where to go and what to see in Asia. His mother is going home in another couple of weeks but he is staying until May.
After breakfast we talked to a travel agent about taking the slow boat (not to China but ) to Luang Prabang in Lao. We think we're going to leave Monday. We also made plane reservations to fly from Lao to Hanoi on the 25th of this month.
The market that was suppose to be so wonderful? Well, we never found it and the locals never heard of it! BUT . . . they assure us that tomorrow (Sunday) there is a wonderful local market . . . we'll see.
Tonight we did something different . . . we had dinner in a restaurant!
It is really hot here and it totally saps my energy. I was exhausted when we got back to the hotel.
11-13 (Friday) Still on the train to Chiang Mai . . .
Still on the train. Last night we tried to put up the bunk bed and it was too heavy for the two of us to do so I went and got one of the attendants to help us. He was a skinny guy who came in and almost with one arm threw that thing into position! Then he put on the mattress pads and put sheets on the bed and pillowcases. He gave us a blanket. WOW! I had the upper bunk, Joyce the lower. This morning (wouldn't you know) we discovered there is a western toilet right around the corner from the squat. It was also stainless steel and had a shower in it. Someone must have taken a shower just before I went in because the entire room was wet. I don't know how anyone could shower and keep their clothes dry - the place wasn't big enough to turn around in.
It turned out to be a longer journey than we thought. We anticipated getting in around 6:30 a.m. but it was actually 11:00 (17 hours.) We didn't mind because it gave us time to sleep, relax, walk around and read. I mostly slept. After the pot holes in Myanmar my body need recovery time.
When we got into Chiang Mai we took a taxi to the hotel for 80 bhat ($2.18) Our room was really nice - we're thrilled. We have been using Wired Destinations to book most of our hotels on the internet before we arrive.
After throwing our stuff in the room we set off on foot to find a place to eat and have a look around. We ended up at some Italian place eating pizza (Joyce) and brushetta (Nancy.) We walked around town poking in shops. One guy from Jacksonville had a great shop with all kinds of things from China, Tibet, Burma and the various hilltribes.
We went into several places to ask them about a tour for the next day. Then we found out that there is a big local market in the morning that is suppose took be better than the night market. We decided to delay the tour another day and go to the local market in the morning. Now we're beginning to think of heading to Lao.
After having dinner of cheese and crackers in the room we departed for the Night Bazaar. It was as good if not better than I remembered it. I bought several things - my suitcase is beginning to fill up.
Still on the train. Last night we tried to put up the bunk bed and it was too heavy for the two of us to do so I went and got one of the attendants to help us. He was a skinny guy who came in and almost with one arm threw that thing into position! Then he put on the mattress pads and put sheets on the bed and pillowcases. He gave us a blanket. WOW! I had the upper bunk, Joyce the lower. This morning (wouldn't you know) we discovered there is a western toilet right around the corner from the squat. It was also stainless steel and had a shower in it. Someone must have taken a shower just before I went in because the entire room was wet. I don't know how anyone could shower and keep their clothes dry - the place wasn't big enough to turn around in.
It turned out to be a longer journey than we thought. We anticipated getting in around 6:30 a.m. but it was actually 11:00 (17 hours.) We didn't mind because it gave us time to sleep, relax, walk around and read. I mostly slept. After the pot holes in Myanmar my body need recovery time.
When we got into Chiang Mai we took a taxi to the hotel for 80 bhat ($2.18) Our room was really nice - we're thrilled. We have been using Wired Destinations to book most of our hotels on the internet before we arrive.
After throwing our stuff in the room we set off on foot to find a place to eat and have a look around. We ended up at some Italian place eating pizza (Joyce) and brushetta (Nancy.) We walked around town poking in shops. One guy from Jacksonville had a great shop with all kinds of things from China, Tibet, Burma and the various hilltribes.
We went into several places to ask them about a tour for the next day. Then we found out that there is a big local market in the morning that is suppose took be better than the night market. We decided to delay the tour another day and go to the local market in the morning. Now we're beginning to think of heading to Lao.
After having dinner of cheese and crackers in the room we departed for the Night Bazaar. It was as good if not better than I remembered it. I bought several things - my suitcase is beginning to fill up.
Saturday, October 14, 2006
11-12 (Thursday)
After breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. When I got back to the hotel U Tin Wint was already there talking to Joyce and waiting to take us to the airport. He seemed sorry to see us go.
We had to wait for the counter to open before we could pay our departure fee of $10 US each. We looked around in some of the gift shops then went to the "lounge" for free drinks and cakes while we waited on the plane.
We met a German doctor who actually was born and raised in Myanmar. She was back in Myanmar trying to set up some clinics and other ways of helping her people. Her husband (a German) is an eye doctor. The people are so poor that they can't afford medicine but even if they could there is none to be had.
We saw an English newspaper that said 60,000 people had signed a petition to free Aung San Suu Kyi. Those people must have been very brave to sign
Yesterday at lunch I asked May Thu why foreigners aren't allowed to go north of Mandalay. She said that's where they grow all the opium and the government doesn't want foreigners seeing it. Mostly it's grown in the Golden Triangle area. You can go to visit the Naga tribes but I think only at their New Year's festival. They were headhunters for many years. During WWII when our pilots were flying the hump their chief told them to protect the pilots and not take any heads. If you go for the festival it is expensive and you have to sleep in a "camp" Be prepared for it to be cold at night. Sounds like Irian Jaya conditions. I would love to attend this some day if I can ever scrape together the money.
Everyone in Myanmar hates the government. The army officers only make $50 a month so they are constantly taking bribes.
Once again we had a fabulous meal on the plane from Yangon to Bangkok. Chicken so tender you could cut it with your fork. Rice, spinach, a wonderful bean salad, red wine and bread pudding for dessert. The flight was an hour.
We got off the plane cleared customs and started looking for a cab to the train station. Some guy with long painted fingernails came up to us and wanted us to use his transportation. I had all the luggage so I told Joyce to go down and find out how much and if his transportation had a meter. He wanted 800 baht which was a little more than $20 US. Forget it. He may have thought he spotted 2 fools but it wasn't us. We got a metered cab and paid $8 US to the train station. We thought we were going to be taking the 7:30 train. When I went to the ticket window the guy said "Do you want to leave right now?" I told him we did and asked if he had any 1st class tickets left. It just so happened he did but not on the 7:30 train. Our ticket cost $36 US. We bought our ticket at 5:30 and were pulling out of the station at 6:00. We even had time to run and buy some water from a stand on the platform. Our compartment only had 2 beds. Both people sit facing the front of the train on the lower bunk. When it's bedtime the top bunk flips up. There were pillows and mattress pads on shelves hanging from the walls. We are planning to spend two nights in Chiang Mai but have NO idea where we're going after that.
After breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. When I got back to the hotel U Tin Wint was already there talking to Joyce and waiting to take us to the airport. He seemed sorry to see us go.
We had to wait for the counter to open before we could pay our departure fee of $10 US each. We looked around in some of the gift shops then went to the "lounge" for free drinks and cakes while we waited on the plane.
We met a German doctor who actually was born and raised in Myanmar. She was back in Myanmar trying to set up some clinics and other ways of helping her people. Her husband (a German) is an eye doctor. The people are so poor that they can't afford medicine but even if they could there is none to be had.
We saw an English newspaper that said 60,000 people had signed a petition to free Aung San Suu Kyi. Those people must have been very brave to sign
Yesterday at lunch I asked May Thu why foreigners aren't allowed to go north of Mandalay. She said that's where they grow all the opium and the government doesn't want foreigners seeing it. Mostly it's grown in the Golden Triangle area. You can go to visit the Naga tribes but I think only at their New Year's festival. They were headhunters for many years. During WWII when our pilots were flying the hump their chief told them to protect the pilots and not take any heads. If you go for the festival it is expensive and you have to sleep in a "camp" Be prepared for it to be cold at night. Sounds like Irian Jaya conditions. I would love to attend this some day if I can ever scrape together the money.
Everyone in Myanmar hates the government. The army officers only make $50 a month so they are constantly taking bribes.
Once again we had a fabulous meal on the plane from Yangon to Bangkok. Chicken so tender you could cut it with your fork. Rice, spinach, a wonderful bean salad, red wine and bread pudding for dessert. The flight was an hour.
We got off the plane cleared customs and started looking for a cab to the train station. Some guy with long painted fingernails came up to us and wanted us to use his transportation. I had all the luggage so I told Joyce to go down and find out how much and if his transportation had a meter. He wanted 800 baht which was a little more than $20 US. Forget it. He may have thought he spotted 2 fools but it wasn't us. We got a metered cab and paid $8 US to the train station. We thought we were going to be taking the 7:30 train. When I went to the ticket window the guy said "Do you want to leave right now?" I told him we did and asked if he had any 1st class tickets left. It just so happened he did but not on the 7:30 train. Our ticket cost $36 US. We bought our ticket at 5:30 and were pulling out of the station at 6:00. We even had time to run and buy some water from a stand on the platform. Our compartment only had 2 beds. Both people sit facing the front of the train on the lower bunk. When it's bedtime the top bunk flips up. There were pillows and mattress pads on shelves hanging from the walls. We are planning to spend two nights in Chiang Mai but have NO idea where we're going after that.
10-11 (Wednesday)
After we had breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. Joyce stayed at the hotel to do her own thing.
We both dressed up in our sarongs for lunch. I even curled my hair. U Tin Wint came to pick us up at 11:00. I took my rolling backpack because a screw had come out and I wanted him to help me find a place to have it fixed.
We drove to his house. It was in a very tall building. They had two floors. They slept on the 2nd floor. Six people lived in the house - U Tin, his wife, the mother-in-law, the 2 daughters and the sister-in law. The mother-in-law was all dressed up in her finest clothes. They were all so excited to have us in their house. I had been praying that we would be able to eat the food. My prayers were answered. U Tin Wint must have told his wife what we ate on the trip because she had prepared fried rice, fried potatoes, chicken, chicken sausage, some sort of tomatoes and onions and some sort of fried dish that puffed up. Only Joyce, U Tin Wint, and I ate. May Thu and her mother just watched us. I thought everything went well. We visited for about an hour after lunch then U Tin Wint took us to a repair shop for my suitcase and back to the hotel.
I changed clothes then we took a taxi to Scott's Market to pick up our glasses. We walked over to another market to buy chocolates for U Tin's wife as a thank you for the lunch. We will give it to him tomorrow when he takes us to the airport.
After we had breakfast I took a cab to the Internet. Joyce stayed at the hotel to do her own thing.
We both dressed up in our sarongs for lunch. I even curled my hair. U Tin Wint came to pick us up at 11:00. I took my rolling backpack because a screw had come out and I wanted him to help me find a place to have it fixed.
We drove to his house. It was in a very tall building. They had two floors. They slept on the 2nd floor. Six people lived in the house - U Tin, his wife, the mother-in-law, the 2 daughters and the sister-in law. The mother-in-law was all dressed up in her finest clothes. They were all so excited to have us in their house. I had been praying that we would be able to eat the food. My prayers were answered. U Tin Wint must have told his wife what we ate on the trip because she had prepared fried rice, fried potatoes, chicken, chicken sausage, some sort of tomatoes and onions and some sort of fried dish that puffed up. Only Joyce, U Tin Wint, and I ate. May Thu and her mother just watched us. I thought everything went well. We visited for about an hour after lunch then U Tin Wint took us to a repair shop for my suitcase and back to the hotel.
I changed clothes then we took a taxi to Scott's Market to pick up our glasses. We walked over to another market to buy chocolates for U Tin's wife as a thank you for the lunch. We will give it to him tomorrow when he takes us to the airport.
10-10 (Tuesday)
May Thu and U Tin Wint came over while we were having breakfast. We paid them for our trip. Last night we gave the tips to U Tin Wint and Ko oo because we were afraid we wouldn't see Ko oo again. U Tin didn't want the trip money last night he just wanted to get home to his family. I arranged to go with U Tin Wint to the Golden Rock the next day. Joyce was too tired and was going to stay behind in Yangon.
May Thu gave us news that it rained so hard at Inle Lake just after we left that the tourists could not get out. They were stuck there for several days.
We dropped May Thu off so she could change our air tickets then U Tin Wint let us out at a Supermarket. From there we walked to a bookstore so I could get some bookmarks for my book club but they had never heard of bookmarks. They sent us to a stationary store but no luck there either.
We went to Scott's Market and each ordered another pair of prescription sunglasses. They would be ready the next morning at 9:30.
We decided to treat ourselves and go to lunch at the Strand Hotel. This is a very famous and elegant hotel. It was originally constructed in 1896 and had been restored with none of the atmosphere lost. Our lunch was $14 each. We though it was well worth it to be dining in one of the glorious outposts of the British Empire. After lunch we toured the hotel and took pictures. At the gift shop we each bought a necklace. One of the workers showed us around the bar area. He showed us the Aussie Embassy right next door and the British Embassy. He said they all come in after work on Fridays for Happy Hour. We didn't get back to the hotel until 7:30.
I decided I didn't want to spend another 13 hours in the car so I called May Thu and canceled my trip to the Golden Rock. She invited us to dinner the next night at her family's house. I told her we didn't eat dinner (which was true) so she invited us for lunch. She said U Tin Wint would pick us up the next day at 11:00.
May Thu and U Tin Wint came over while we were having breakfast. We paid them for our trip. Last night we gave the tips to U Tin Wint and Ko oo because we were afraid we wouldn't see Ko oo again. U Tin didn't want the trip money last night he just wanted to get home to his family. I arranged to go with U Tin Wint to the Golden Rock the next day. Joyce was too tired and was going to stay behind in Yangon.
May Thu gave us news that it rained so hard at Inle Lake just after we left that the tourists could not get out. They were stuck there for several days.
We dropped May Thu off so she could change our air tickets then U Tin Wint let us out at a Supermarket. From there we walked to a bookstore so I could get some bookmarks for my book club but they had never heard of bookmarks. They sent us to a stationary store but no luck there either.
We went to Scott's Market and each ordered another pair of prescription sunglasses. They would be ready the next morning at 9:30.
We decided to treat ourselves and go to lunch at the Strand Hotel. This is a very famous and elegant hotel. It was originally constructed in 1896 and had been restored with none of the atmosphere lost. Our lunch was $14 each. We though it was well worth it to be dining in one of the glorious outposts of the British Empire. After lunch we toured the hotel and took pictures. At the gift shop we each bought a necklace. One of the workers showed us around the bar area. He showed us the Aussie Embassy right next door and the British Embassy. He said they all come in after work on Fridays for Happy Hour. We didn't get back to the hotel until 7:30.
I decided I didn't want to spend another 13 hours in the car so I called May Thu and canceled my trip to the Golden Rock. She invited us to dinner the next night at her family's house. I told her we didn't eat dinner (which was true) so she invited us for lunch. She said U Tin Wint would pick us up the next day at 11:00.
10 9 (Monday)
I actually slept last night in that old run down hotel. I hadn't slept through the night in so long I was beginning to think the car accident I was in had knocked out my ability to sleep.
We were up by 6 a.m. and downstairs having breakfast (toast/warm bread, jelly and tea) by 6:30. The staff came in to stare at the Americans who dropped into their hotel. We were on the road headed back to Yangon by 7:30. U Tin Wint found out that some army man found his cell phone at the first market where we stopped after leaving Inle Lake. He was soooooo happy and we were happy for him.
We drove and drove. At one point we came upon miles and miles of trucks and cars (mostly trucks) pulled off on the side of the road. We passed right by them and positioned ourselves at the front of the line. There were military people all around. We wanted to know what was going on. U Tin Wint told us it was because Senior General so and so (the leader of the country) was coming through. I got out of the car and was standing on the side of the road until U Tin Wint made me get in the car. I could hear fear in his voice. After "big boy" went by then we were able to continue our journey. It must have taken HOURS out of the day for the truckers. We stopped at a famous cattle auction. We walked around on the ground just to have a look. They were selling cattle and water buffalo. We walked around a bit admiring the different sale items.
Back to the pot holes. It rained on and off most of the day which made the driving even more treacherous. At twighlight I suggested to U Tin Wint that he turn on the car lights. He didn't see any need but did put on the parking lights. Around 7 pm in the pitch black he finally turned on the big lights. It was so dangerous because people were walking on the sides of the roads, dogs were out in the middle, motorcycles and other vehicles were approaching without lights. There were no street lights.
As we got closer to Yangon we had to swerve to miss two water buffalo that were right in the middle of the road.
We finally pulled into our hotel after 300 miles and 15 hours on the road. we were absolutely exhausted.
I actually slept last night in that old run down hotel. I hadn't slept through the night in so long I was beginning to think the car accident I was in had knocked out my ability to sleep.
We were up by 6 a.m. and downstairs having breakfast (toast/warm bread, jelly and tea) by 6:30. The staff came in to stare at the Americans who dropped into their hotel. We were on the road headed back to Yangon by 7:30. U Tin Wint found out that some army man found his cell phone at the first market where we stopped after leaving Inle Lake. He was soooooo happy and we were happy for him.
We drove and drove. At one point we came upon miles and miles of trucks and cars (mostly trucks) pulled off on the side of the road. We passed right by them and positioned ourselves at the front of the line. There were military people all around. We wanted to know what was going on. U Tin Wint told us it was because Senior General so and so (the leader of the country) was coming through. I got out of the car and was standing on the side of the road until U Tin Wint made me get in the car. I could hear fear in his voice. After "big boy" went by then we were able to continue our journey. It must have taken HOURS out of the day for the truckers. We stopped at a famous cattle auction. We walked around on the ground just to have a look. They were selling cattle and water buffalo. We walked around a bit admiring the different sale items.
Back to the pot holes. It rained on and off most of the day which made the driving even more treacherous. At twighlight I suggested to U Tin Wint that he turn on the car lights. He didn't see any need but did put on the parking lights. Around 7 pm in the pitch black he finally turned on the big lights. It was so dangerous because people were walking on the sides of the roads, dogs were out in the middle, motorcycles and other vehicles were approaching without lights. There were no street lights.
As we got closer to Yangon we had to swerve to miss two water buffalo that were right in the middle of the road.
We finally pulled into our hotel after 300 miles and 15 hours on the road. we were absolutely exhausted.
10-8 (Sunday) Leaving Inle Lake
I didn't sleep at all last night! I was up at 4:00, we had breakfast at 4:30 in the room and got into the boat at 5 a.m. to leave Inle Lake. It was pitch black outside as we took off across the lake without a single light on our boat. We passed a couple of early morning fishermen also without lights. As we pulled into the area where we had left our car we saw women at the river bathing. They have to bathe with their clothes on - they wear sarongs so they just reach under them and clean themselves. The water was very muddy looking plus you could see all kinds of debris floating downstream. They wash their hair, bathe and brush their teeth in that water.
We had to wait around to get our trusty car going since it hadn't been driven for more than a day. When we finally left town we thought it would be bumpy sailing all the way to Yangon, but NO U Tin Wint wanted to stop along the way at some market. I think he was looking for something for his wife but didn't find it. We drove on. We stopped along the side of the road and he bought some black tea which they drink by mixing it with wine and water. We drove on. Our last stop was to get 3 gallons of gas before we headed up over the mountain. We drove on. It wasn't long before other travelers began telling us that they heard there had been a rock slide and no one was able to pass. We drove on. We asked still other cars and trucks coming from that direction about the slide. They all said, "yes" it was true. They said there were between 80-200 cars and trucks waiting for the road to be cleared. They said we might have to wait up to two days to cross. We decided we didn't have any choice but to turn around and go back in the direction of Mandalay and then find a road back towards Yagon. It was just about this point that U Tin Wint discovered he had lost his cell phone. You could tell he was just sick about it. We went back to where we bought the 3 gallons of gas and where we bought the black tea but it wasn't at either place. We finally got through to him to call his own # and maybe someone would answer and he could find out where the phone was. He did call but no one answered. We drove on. We were going down very narrow country lanes with very few cars but lots of pot holes. My head felt like it was on a spring - it was bouncing all over the place. We got to see a lot of the Myanmar countryside.
Around 7:30 after we had been driving in the dark without lights for almost an hour we pulled into a small village and found a hotel. U Tin Wint went to look at the rooms first then had me come in and look. The hotel had a huge lobby which was shabby and run down. We climbed the stairs to the 2nd floor. It was dirty, dark and dingy. The halls were very wide. There were 2 beds up against the wall in a gigantic room. They looked clean. There was an old thread bear carpet on the floor, a mirror on the wall and even an A/C! The bathroom left a lot to be desired. It did have a western toilet, a shower pipe was coming out of the wall (it had hot and cold water) and a sink with only one faucet, that meant only cold water. I said we would take it. We went downstairs to register our passports. The staff seemed quit impressed that we would stay there. The towels they brought into the room looked like they had cleaned the floors with them. We took "showers" with our baby wipes and went to bed by 8:30.
I didn't sleep at all last night! I was up at 4:00, we had breakfast at 4:30 in the room and got into the boat at 5 a.m. to leave Inle Lake. It was pitch black outside as we took off across the lake without a single light on our boat. We passed a couple of early morning fishermen also without lights. As we pulled into the area where we had left our car we saw women at the river bathing. They have to bathe with their clothes on - they wear sarongs so they just reach under them and clean themselves. The water was very muddy looking plus you could see all kinds of debris floating downstream. They wash their hair, bathe and brush their teeth in that water.
We had to wait around to get our trusty car going since it hadn't been driven for more than a day. When we finally left town we thought it would be bumpy sailing all the way to Yangon, but NO U Tin Wint wanted to stop along the way at some market. I think he was looking for something for his wife but didn't find it. We drove on. We stopped along the side of the road and he bought some black tea which they drink by mixing it with wine and water. We drove on. Our last stop was to get 3 gallons of gas before we headed up over the mountain. We drove on. It wasn't long before other travelers began telling us that they heard there had been a rock slide and no one was able to pass. We drove on. We asked still other cars and trucks coming from that direction about the slide. They all said, "yes" it was true. They said there were between 80-200 cars and trucks waiting for the road to be cleared. They said we might have to wait up to two days to cross. We decided we didn't have any choice but to turn around and go back in the direction of Mandalay and then find a road back towards Yagon. It was just about this point that U Tin Wint discovered he had lost his cell phone. You could tell he was just sick about it. We went back to where we bought the 3 gallons of gas and where we bought the black tea but it wasn't at either place. We finally got through to him to call his own # and maybe someone would answer and he could find out where the phone was. He did call but no one answered. We drove on. We were going down very narrow country lanes with very few cars but lots of pot holes. My head felt like it was on a spring - it was bouncing all over the place. We got to see a lot of the Myanmar countryside.
Around 7:30 after we had been driving in the dark without lights for almost an hour we pulled into a small village and found a hotel. U Tin Wint went to look at the rooms first then had me come in and look. The hotel had a huge lobby which was shabby and run down. We climbed the stairs to the 2nd floor. It was dirty, dark and dingy. The halls were very wide. There were 2 beds up against the wall in a gigantic room. They looked clean. There was an old thread bear carpet on the floor, a mirror on the wall and even an A/C! The bathroom left a lot to be desired. It did have a western toilet, a shower pipe was coming out of the wall (it had hot and cold water) and a sink with only one faucet, that meant only cold water. I said we would take it. We went downstairs to register our passports. The staff seemed quit impressed that we would stay there. The towels they brought into the room looked like they had cleaned the floors with them. We took "showers" with our baby wipes and went to bed by 8:30.
10-7 (Saturday) Inle Lake
I got up at 4:30 so I'd be ready by 5:30. The hotel served us breakfast in the room then we left at 6:00. It was a little chilly as we headed across the Inle Lake. I put on my flannel shirt and I was wearing my zip off pants. We went through several water villages. We saw hard working fishermen rowing their flat bottom boats with their legs as they plotted a path through the floating islands and water hyacinths. They actually live and work on the water growing their crops on fertile masses of marsh grass and soil that are anchored to the lake bottom with bamboo poles. The lake is in a valley surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery. This serene body of water has floating gardens (many tomatoes are growing right along the canals), tribal villages, monasteries and stupas line the shores.
Our long tail boat was like a large canoe. The boats the fishermen use are smaller. They are more like a dugout canoe. The fisherman perches or stands on a small flat platform on the back. They use nets or a cone shaped basket for catching fish. The lake is not deep 4-6 ft or 12 feet during the rainy season.
We got to a certain area where 100's and 100's of boats were "parked." This was the observation area for the upcoming parade. While we were waiting for it to begin vendors in their floating markets came along side our boat trying to sell their wares.
The "floats" consisted of a line of very long boats tied end to end. On each side there must have been 30 men standing up rowing. Sometimes they used their arms on the long oars and sometimes they rowed with their legs. Each boat "team" was dressed alike. There was a lot of burnt orange which seems to represent Buddha! Some of the boats had huge umbrellas. The last two floats were gold in color and represented a pagoda. Once the last float passed everyone cranked up their motors and raced to another location to see them again. Then we maneuvered our boat to land where everyone was getting out for the festivities. There was so much water on the ground from all the rain that our feet sank down in the mud and it was hard to pick them up. We sat down at some tables under cover and had breakfast. There were a lot of minorities walking around. I saw a Japanese woman running after them and sticking her camera right in their faces. She was totally out of place with her picture taking. I ran up to her and stuck my camera in her face and took her picture but I don't think she got it.
It was back into the boat to make the rounds of the different "factories" where they show you how a product is made and then expect you to buy it. First was the silk factory. There was only one young girl working the looms because everyone else was at the festival. Next was the cigar "factory." The cigars were wrapped in a green leaf and weren't much bigger than a cigarette. There were 8 girls working. They work from 7 in the morning until 6 at night. They roll 500 cigars a day and earn 18 cents a day. They sit cross legged on the floor to do this job with no support for their back. They get 30 minutes off for lunch.
Our next stop was the big pagoda. We had to take off our shoes to go inside just like we do at every pagoda. This one was worth seeing - the ceiling was beautiful. Around the top of the wall right next to the ceiling were colorful painted pictures telling Buddhas life story. In the center of the room was Buddha on a platform. There was a sign that said "Ladies Prohibited." underneath the pagoda was a huge market. I bought a tee-shirt and a hat and Joyce bought a couple of sarongs.
I got up at 4:30 so I'd be ready by 5:30. The hotel served us breakfast in the room then we left at 6:00. It was a little chilly as we headed across the Inle Lake. I put on my flannel shirt and I was wearing my zip off pants. We went through several water villages. We saw hard working fishermen rowing their flat bottom boats with their legs as they plotted a path through the floating islands and water hyacinths. They actually live and work on the water growing their crops on fertile masses of marsh grass and soil that are anchored to the lake bottom with bamboo poles. The lake is in a valley surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery. This serene body of water has floating gardens (many tomatoes are growing right along the canals), tribal villages, monasteries and stupas line the shores.
Our long tail boat was like a large canoe. The boats the fishermen use are smaller. They are more like a dugout canoe. The fisherman perches or stands on a small flat platform on the back. They use nets or a cone shaped basket for catching fish. The lake is not deep 4-6 ft or 12 feet during the rainy season.
We got to a certain area where 100's and 100's of boats were "parked." This was the observation area for the upcoming parade. While we were waiting for it to begin vendors in their floating markets came along side our boat trying to sell their wares.
The "floats" consisted of a line of very long boats tied end to end. On each side there must have been 30 men standing up rowing. Sometimes they used their arms on the long oars and sometimes they rowed with their legs. Each boat "team" was dressed alike. There was a lot of burnt orange which seems to represent Buddha! Some of the boats had huge umbrellas. The last two floats were gold in color and represented a pagoda. Once the last float passed everyone cranked up their motors and raced to another location to see them again. Then we maneuvered our boat to land where everyone was getting out for the festivities. There was so much water on the ground from all the rain that our feet sank down in the mud and it was hard to pick them up. We sat down at some tables under cover and had breakfast. There were a lot of minorities walking around. I saw a Japanese woman running after them and sticking her camera right in their faces. She was totally out of place with her picture taking. I ran up to her and stuck my camera in her face and took her picture but I don't think she got it.
It was back into the boat to make the rounds of the different "factories" where they show you how a product is made and then expect you to buy it. First was the silk factory. There was only one young girl working the looms because everyone else was at the festival. Next was the cigar "factory." The cigars were wrapped in a green leaf and weren't much bigger than a cigarette. There were 8 girls working. They work from 7 in the morning until 6 at night. They roll 500 cigars a day and earn 18 cents a day. They sit cross legged on the floor to do this job with no support for their back. They get 30 minutes off for lunch.
Our next stop was the big pagoda. We had to take off our shoes to go inside just like we do at every pagoda. This one was worth seeing - the ceiling was beautiful. Around the top of the wall right next to the ceiling were colorful painted pictures telling Buddhas life story. In the center of the room was Buddha on a platform. There was a sign that said "Ladies Prohibited." underneath the pagoda was a huge market. I bought a tee-shirt and a hat and Joyce bought a couple of sarongs.
Next we headed off to lunch in a very nice restaurant. There were some Americans sitting at a table next to us, the first we have seen since leaving home.
The next stop was the silver factory. The conditions were so primitive - they still operate a bellows with their foot to stoke the fire for melting the silver.
The paper making factory was next. Some girl kneels on a board most of the day making the paper.
My favorite stop was to see the Long Neck people. They were weaving. The grandmother was 65 years old and very funny. We were saying how pretty they all were - grannie said, "yes, but I'm the MOST beautiful!" She had 25 rings around her neck and let me tell you they are heavy.
It started raining as we stopped to snoop in shops along one of the canals. We also stopped at a fancy hotel in the middle of one of the canals. U Tin Wint told the management we were there from America to make an inspection of the place! I don't know what they thought but they rolled out the red carpet for us showing us the rooms, the menu, the observation tower etc, etc.
It was raining again when we went to our last pagoda of the day. It was the one where the monks have taught their cats to jump through hoops.
We rode back to the hotel with our umbrellas up since it was still raining.
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
10-6 (Friday) Leaving
I got up at 4:30 for our 5:00 departure. The streets were still flooded as we left
Once we actually got on the road it was smooth like a real highway. We made good time. It isn’t good to get excited about good roads because they don’t last long. We didn’t stop for breakfast until 8:30. The locals really gave us the once over.
As we continued on we came to more sections of the roadway that were completely flooded. At one point it was flowing so hard there was a current. We couldn’t get over how that ’84
The next surprise was the mountains. We went up on huge mountain down and then up a second one right away. Of course the road, if you can call it that, wasn’t paved. It was hard, hard driving. Naturally we were passing other cars, motorcycles, trucks and buses on the way up and down. It didn’t matter if we were on a curve. There were small trucks like bemos going up and down. Some of them must have had 30 people in the back and at least 10-15 on top. Big boulders had fallen down in the road. At one curve a bus going up and a huge road making machine were trying to pass each other. They were too big to squeeze by each other. Everyone was having to stop while they tried to figure it out. Finally one of them backed up enough so that the mountain traffic could get through.
We finally got off both mountains and began heading towards
There was a booth as we entered the Inle area. They told us we had to pay $3 US each. I said we didn’t have any dollars. That was too kbad, if we didn’t have them we weren’t getting anywhere. U Tin Wint said he was going to drive to his friend’s and get dollars. We said we would pay him back when we got to the hotel. We drove to the friend’s and came back with the dollars.
We parked our car at U Tin Wint’s branch office and walked to lunch. By this time it was 3:30 or 4:00. Joyce and I split a chicken dish over rice.
We went back to the branch office and planned our next day.
We got in a longtail boat with all our luggage and headed out to the hotel. It probably took 20 minutes to get there. It began to sprinkle along the way so we put up umbrellas that were in the boat.
The hotel was lovely. We had a room with a big porch overlooking the lake.. We sat outside and wrote in our journals for a long time.
I went with the “guys” to a ceremony that only occurs on the full moon of October. Hundreds of candles are lit at all the pagodas and in houses all over
10-5 (Thursday) Mandalay flood
I slept until 3 a.m. YEAH! It poured torrential rains last night. It was still raining this morning but not so hard. The “guys” picked us up at 8:15 after we had breakfast in the hotel. The first place we went was Mandalay Hill. The streets were flooded. The water was very deep – up over the sidewalks. We had to creep along. Needless to say we had to take off our shoes to go up to the pagoda on top of Mandalay Hill. The view looking down on the city was quit spectacular. (Driving up in the car was one hair pin curve after another.) I asked Ko oo to please drive slowly going down and he did.
We went to some other temple/pagoda (The Big Book Pagoda.) The ticket booth person said we needed to pay $10 US so that we could go in all the other pagodas on our list in Mandalay. We were sick of going in pagodas and said we didn’t have any dollars. We asked how much it was in Kyats. It turned out to be more than $10. We said we weren’t going to pay it. That was that. I know U Tin Wint was a little worried about what he was going to do with us the rest of the day. We told him we wanted to go shopping at the market. He took us to a local place but they didn’t have anything we were interested in. We walked to a couple other places and finally found the shop of “Mr. Slim.” He was selling things from the Naga tribe. He spoke excellent English and had interesting stories to tell. His family was very wealthy at one time. They originally came from Pakistan. His grandfather worked for Upjohn out of the states. Then the new regime moved in and they lost everything. I bought several things from Mr. Slim. He wanted $40 for everything . I got it all for $30 which was too much but I wanted it. We told U Tin Wint we wanted to buy some carvings. He took us to a “carving” factory which wasn’t what we had in mind. We didn’t buy anything. We told him we wanted to go to a Supermarket. As we were driving there the roads were so flooded that the water started coming into the car. We had to hold our feet up! Toyota should make a commercial with our car – it just keeps going and going. Some cars and motorcycles were stalling out but we just kept plowing through. The bad thing was that you couldn’t see where the pot holes were.
We finally arrived at a very nice shopping mall. U Tin Wint walked in with us to find the “food court.” We told him to go on and do his own thing that we wanted to stay and shop. He looked relieved. We had potatoes with chilies for lunch, boy were they hot! Dinki you would have died. We walked around the mall and lastly went in the supermarket to buy food for the night and the next day. We walked along the streets but didn’t see anything interesting. We hired a “blue” taxi for 2,000 to take us back to the hotel. This kind of taxi is a mini, mini truck. The driver sits in the cab and we cram into the open back. The streets were still flooded but he made it through to the hotel.
We got back about 4:00 but were happy for the time to wash our hair, do laundry and pack to go to Inle Lake the next day.
The “guys” came by and brought our backpacks which we had left in the car. They weren’t staying at our hotel. They said they were going to pick us up at 5 a.m. so we could try to get to Inle Lake by 1:00.
Before we went to bed the thunder was so loud it shook our room. I didn’t know how we’d be able to get through the streets in the morning if they were more flooded than today. The infer structure in this country is nil.
I slept until 3 a.m. YEAH! It poured torrential rains last night. It was still raining this morning but not so hard. The “guys” picked us up at 8:15 after we had breakfast in the hotel. The first place we went was Mandalay Hill. The streets were flooded. The water was very deep – up over the sidewalks. We had to creep along. Needless to say we had to take off our shoes to go up to the pagoda on top of Mandalay Hill. The view looking down on the city was quit spectacular. (Driving up in the car was one hair pin curve after another.) I asked Ko oo to please drive slowly going down and he did.
We went to some other temple/pagoda (The Big Book Pagoda.) The ticket booth person said we needed to pay $10 US so that we could go in all the other pagodas on our list in Mandalay. We were sick of going in pagodas and said we didn’t have any dollars. We asked how much it was in Kyats. It turned out to be more than $10. We said we weren’t going to pay it. That was that. I know U Tin Wint was a little worried about what he was going to do with us the rest of the day. We told him we wanted to go shopping at the market. He took us to a local place but they didn’t have anything we were interested in. We walked to a couple other places and finally found the shop of “Mr. Slim.” He was selling things from the Naga tribe. He spoke excellent English and had interesting stories to tell. His family was very wealthy at one time. They originally came from Pakistan. His grandfather worked for Upjohn out of the states. Then the new regime moved in and they lost everything. I bought several things from Mr. Slim. He wanted $40 for everything . I got it all for $30 which was too much but I wanted it. We told U Tin Wint we wanted to buy some carvings. He took us to a “carving” factory which wasn’t what we had in mind. We didn’t buy anything. We told him we wanted to go to a Supermarket. As we were driving there the roads were so flooded that the water started coming into the car. We had to hold our feet up! Toyota should make a commercial with our car – it just keeps going and going. Some cars and motorcycles were stalling out but we just kept plowing through. The bad thing was that you couldn’t see where the pot holes were.
We finally arrived at a very nice shopping mall. U Tin Wint walked in with us to find the “food court.” We told him to go on and do his own thing that we wanted to stay and shop. He looked relieved. We had potatoes with chilies for lunch, boy were they hot! Dinki you would have died. We walked around the mall and lastly went in the supermarket to buy food for the night and the next day. We walked along the streets but didn’t see anything interesting. We hired a “blue” taxi for 2,000 to take us back to the hotel. This kind of taxi is a mini, mini truck. The driver sits in the cab and we cram into the open back. The streets were still flooded but he made it through to the hotel.
We got back about 4:00 but were happy for the time to wash our hair, do laundry and pack to go to Inle Lake the next day.
The “guys” came by and brought our backpacks which we had left in the car. They weren’t staying at our hotel. They said they were going to pick us up at 5 a.m. so we could try to get to Inle Lake by 1:00.
Before we went to bed the thunder was so loud it shook our room. I didn’t know how we’d be able to get through the streets in the morning if they were more flooded than today. The infer structure in this country is nil.
10-4 (Wednesday) The Road to Mandalay!
It rained buckets last night. It made for good sleeping if only I could have!
The hotel staff brought breakfast to our room at 6:30 because we planned to leave at 7:00. U Tin Wint wanted to take us by a special place that was not on our agenda. Of course it turned out to be another pagoda. It was way up on top of a tall rock formation – Popa Mountain. It was very magical and impressive until we got there and found out we were going to climb about a million steps in our bear feet. There were monkeys all over the place but they didn’t attack us. We had to try not to step in their tee-tee and poop. Joyce wasn’t a happy camper about going up. She quit several times but somehow she made it to the top. More Buddhas!
When we got down the “guys” wanted to go to a restaurant and have tea. I was happy when we finally got back on the pot hole road. As we were bouncing along something happened to the car. Instead of speeding we drove normal speeds to some sort of garage. They jacked it up with some ancient jack and stuck something like a cut off tree trunk under it and another block of wood. Some guy climbed under it and I guess fixed it because in less than 45 minutes we were bouncing from on pot hole to another once more.
We stopped at some restaurant for lunch. Joyce and I split a plate of fried rice.
Further down the road I asked to stop so I could go into the bushes and wee wee. I did but was bitten by an ant on my toe since I was wearing flip flops.
We made it into Mandalay around 5:00. They must have had a lot of rain because several of the streets were flooded. We had a hard time finding the hotel but finally arrived. The traffic in Mandalay is like the traffic in Bangkok!
After putting our stuff in the room we were going to go out and do email when some man told us that all hotmail is blocked. That must have just been in Mandalay or else he was wrong. We decided to get foot massages instead right there in the hotel. These were the deep massages. Joyce and I were both screaming. For that hour of pain we paid less than $4. When the girls finished they did our arms, hands, necks, shoulders and back all for the same price. The next day we had bruises all over our legs especially Joyce – you could the fingerprints on her legs!
It rained buckets last night. It made for good sleeping if only I could have!
The hotel staff brought breakfast to our room at 6:30 because we planned to leave at 7:00. U Tin Wint wanted to take us by a special place that was not on our agenda. Of course it turned out to be another pagoda. It was way up on top of a tall rock formation – Popa Mountain. It was very magical and impressive until we got there and found out we were going to climb about a million steps in our bear feet. There were monkeys all over the place but they didn’t attack us. We had to try not to step in their tee-tee and poop. Joyce wasn’t a happy camper about going up. She quit several times but somehow she made it to the top. More Buddhas!
When we got down the “guys” wanted to go to a restaurant and have tea. I was happy when we finally got back on the pot hole road. As we were bouncing along something happened to the car. Instead of speeding we drove normal speeds to some sort of garage. They jacked it up with some ancient jack and stuck something like a cut off tree trunk under it and another block of wood. Some guy climbed under it and I guess fixed it because in less than 45 minutes we were bouncing from on pot hole to another once more.
We stopped at some restaurant for lunch. Joyce and I split a plate of fried rice.
Further down the road I asked to stop so I could go into the bushes and wee wee. I did but was bitten by an ant on my toe since I was wearing flip flops.
We made it into Mandalay around 5:00. They must have had a lot of rain because several of the streets were flooded. We had a hard time finding the hotel but finally arrived. The traffic in Mandalay is like the traffic in Bangkok!
After putting our stuff in the room we were going to go out and do email when some man told us that all hotmail is blocked. That must have just been in Mandalay or else he was wrong. We decided to get foot massages instead right there in the hotel. These were the deep massages. Joyce and I were both screaming. For that hour of pain we paid less than $4. When the girls finished they did our arms, hands, necks, shoulders and back all for the same price. The next day we had bruises all over our legs especially Joyce – you could the fingerprints on her legs!
10-3 (Tuesday) Began
This morning we had a European breakfast on the roof of the hotel. It was lovely.
We took off to look at some of the 100’s and 100’s of temples/pagodas that dot the landscape. By the time we finished seeing so many at the end of the day I didn’t care if I ever saw another Buddha!
We took a noon break and had lunch at a Chinese restaurant. We stopped by some lacquer ware factories then went to the hotel to rest and relax for an hour. After rest it was back to more temples and Buddhas. We went down to the Irrawaddy River and rented a boat for an hours ride. We saw women pounding their clothes on the rocks. Women loading up water in large containers and putting it on their heads to carry home. We saw a tourist boat that runs back and forth between Began and Mandalay. Coming back into shore the guy ripped a metal railing right off his boat when he got too close to the boat next to him. We went off to see one last (so we thought) pagoda. This is the one where everyone goes to see the sunset. It was a fantastic sight looking down at so many temples.
We thought we were on our way to eat dinner when we left the pagoda but NO we went to another pagoda! You have to take your shoes off each time you go in these places and our feet were killing us walking around on that hard concrete. THEN the guys wanted to go out to dinner but we were too tired. We went back to the room, ate crackers and went to bed.
This morning we had a European breakfast on the roof of the hotel. It was lovely.
We took off to look at some of the 100’s and 100’s of temples/pagodas that dot the landscape. By the time we finished seeing so many at the end of the day I didn’t care if I ever saw another Buddha!
We took a noon break and had lunch at a Chinese restaurant. We stopped by some lacquer ware factories then went to the hotel to rest and relax for an hour. After rest it was back to more temples and Buddhas. We went down to the Irrawaddy River and rented a boat for an hours ride. We saw women pounding their clothes on the rocks. Women loading up water in large containers and putting it on their heads to carry home. We saw a tourist boat that runs back and forth between Began and Mandalay. Coming back into shore the guy ripped a metal railing right off his boat when he got too close to the boat next to him. We went off to see one last (so we thought) pagoda. This is the one where everyone goes to see the sunset. It was a fantastic sight looking down at so many temples.
We thought we were on our way to eat dinner when we left the pagoda but NO we went to another pagoda! You have to take your shoes off each time you go in these places and our feet were killing us walking around on that hard concrete. THEN the guys wanted to go out to dinner but we were too tired. We went back to the room, ate crackers and went to bed.
10-2 (Monday) The Road to Began . . .
I woke up at midnight and never went back to sleep. I finally got up at 4:30 since we had a wake up call for 5 a.m. We went down to breakfast at 5:30. Our guide U Tin Wint and driver Ko OO were a little late picking us up in their 1984 Toyota. We headed out of town. Because the guide and driver had not had breakfast we stopped at a local restaurant so they could eat. The locals couldn’t get over us being in there. Back on the road again to Began. What a road it was! Usually it wasn’t any wider than what we would call a one lane road. It was so full of pot holes that we were bouncing up and down so hard that the axel was hitting the ground. How the car stayed together I’ll never know. We passed everything in sight. We stopped several times for gas which we bought from the black market. At government stations in the country you are only allowed to buy 3 gallons of gas at a time. In Yangon, the capital, you are only allowed to buy 2 gallons at a time! We were amazed at how far that car could go on 3 gallons. We would drive more than 1/2 a day! We would stop along the side of the road and ask someone and they would direct us to the black market petrol. They would bring out a plastic container full of gas and a giant funnel to stick in the tank. Once we had the gas we were back to riding over mile after mile of pot holes. The “road” looked like I cold have poured it myself. There were no shoulders. At one point we were passing a huge gas truck and our car started going out of control and spinning around in the gravel on the side of the road. We got it under control and continued down the road. At one area we went through a path of sand. The sides were half way up the car. Because it was wet we had to keep going even thought there were men along the side to guide us through. We came to a river with fairly swift current and continued at a decent speed so as not to get stuck. U Tin Wint said that if he comes through after a rain the current is so swift that the car could be carried downstream. We had to stop for tolls about every 20 minutes (or so it felt like.) This consisted of a red and white metal pole which could be lifted up and down or sideways. You stop at these and pay a small fee. They are out in the middle of no where.
We continued on. We came to the fairly large town where our driver grew up. We stopped at a local restaurant for lunch. Joyce and I were scared to eat anything so we ordered fried rice. U Tin Wint paid for our lunch. We drove over to see the drver’s sister. She brought out cokes for us. Joyce and I split one. I didn’t want it because I haven’t had a coke in over 15 years. I did gag it down. They asked if we needed to go to the toilet. I took them up on it. It was a tiny wooden building out back, naturally it was a squat. The “shack” itself wasn’t big enough to stand up in and there were cobwebs in all the corners. Before we left the family gave us each a huge bottle of water which we were grateful for. Next we went over to the 73 year old aunt’s house. She used to be a schoolteacher. The aunt was thrilled that 2 Americans had stopped by to see her. She had a really big house.
UTin Wint says you get NOTHING, nada from the government when you retire. The government doesn’t pay for hospital stays – you’re on your own. If you can’t afford it, you don’t go.
On the bumpy , pot hole road again. We did not stop to go to the bathroom or eat. When it got dark it got scary because half the vehicles didn’t have their lights on until later. People were walking along that narrow road and riding bicycles. Of course there were NO street lights. Looking out the front windshield you couldn’t tell if the road went straight or curved. The driver must not have been able to tell either because a curve came up and we screeched around it on our bald tires. It felt like we were on 2 wheels. I screamed!
We finally made it to Began after stopping at another black market gas “station.” We arrived at 8:30 and checked into the hotel which was beautiful! The room was huge and all teak. The bathroom was to die for – all tile, a tub and a separate shower area. The only bad thing was the A/C. It was one of those remote control jobs. The room was stifling when we arrived and it took a long time to cool it down.
Our luggage was filthy from all the dust and dirt that got into the trunk. One of the hotel workers and U Tin Wint cleaned our bags for us.
We were exhausted and filthy after our 400 mile trip that took 14 ½ hours. U Tin Wint wanted us to go to dinner with them but we declined because we were so tired. All we wanted to do was shower and get in bed.
I woke up at midnight and never went back to sleep. I finally got up at 4:30 since we had a wake up call for 5 a.m. We went down to breakfast at 5:30. Our guide U Tin Wint and driver Ko OO were a little late picking us up in their 1984 Toyota. We headed out of town. Because the guide and driver had not had breakfast we stopped at a local restaurant so they could eat. The locals couldn’t get over us being in there. Back on the road again to Began. What a road it was! Usually it wasn’t any wider than what we would call a one lane road. It was so full of pot holes that we were bouncing up and down so hard that the axel was hitting the ground. How the car stayed together I’ll never know. We passed everything in sight. We stopped several times for gas which we bought from the black market. At government stations in the country you are only allowed to buy 3 gallons of gas at a time. In Yangon, the capital, you are only allowed to buy 2 gallons at a time! We were amazed at how far that car could go on 3 gallons. We would drive more than 1/2 a day! We would stop along the side of the road and ask someone and they would direct us to the black market petrol. They would bring out a plastic container full of gas and a giant funnel to stick in the tank. Once we had the gas we were back to riding over mile after mile of pot holes. The “road” looked like I cold have poured it myself. There were no shoulders. At one point we were passing a huge gas truck and our car started going out of control and spinning around in the gravel on the side of the road. We got it under control and continued down the road. At one area we went through a path of sand. The sides were half way up the car. Because it was wet we had to keep going even thought there were men along the side to guide us through. We came to a river with fairly swift current and continued at a decent speed so as not to get stuck. U Tin Wint said that if he comes through after a rain the current is so swift that the car could be carried downstream. We had to stop for tolls about every 20 minutes (or so it felt like.) This consisted of a red and white metal pole which could be lifted up and down or sideways. You stop at these and pay a small fee. They are out in the middle of no where.
We continued on. We came to the fairly large town where our driver grew up. We stopped at a local restaurant for lunch. Joyce and I were scared to eat anything so we ordered fried rice. U Tin Wint paid for our lunch. We drove over to see the drver’s sister. She brought out cokes for us. Joyce and I split one. I didn’t want it because I haven’t had a coke in over 15 years. I did gag it down. They asked if we needed to go to the toilet. I took them up on it. It was a tiny wooden building out back, naturally it was a squat. The “shack” itself wasn’t big enough to stand up in and there were cobwebs in all the corners. Before we left the family gave us each a huge bottle of water which we were grateful for. Next we went over to the 73 year old aunt’s house. She used to be a schoolteacher. The aunt was thrilled that 2 Americans had stopped by to see her. She had a really big house.
UTin Wint says you get NOTHING, nada from the government when you retire. The government doesn’t pay for hospital stays – you’re on your own. If you can’t afford it, you don’t go.
On the bumpy , pot hole road again. We did not stop to go to the bathroom or eat. When it got dark it got scary because half the vehicles didn’t have their lights on until later. People were walking along that narrow road and riding bicycles. Of course there were NO street lights. Looking out the front windshield you couldn’t tell if the road went straight or curved. The driver must not have been able to tell either because a curve came up and we screeched around it on our bald tires. It felt like we were on 2 wheels. I screamed!
We finally made it to Began after stopping at another black market gas “station.” We arrived at 8:30 and checked into the hotel which was beautiful! The room was huge and all teak. The bathroom was to die for – all tile, a tub and a separate shower area. The only bad thing was the A/C. It was one of those remote control jobs. The room was stifling when we arrived and it took a long time to cool it down.
Our luggage was filthy from all the dust and dirt that got into the trunk. One of the hotel workers and U Tin Wint cleaned our bags for us.
We were exhausted and filthy after our 400 mile trip that took 14 ½ hours. U Tin Wint wanted us to go to dinner with them but we declined because we were so tired. All we wanted to do was shower and get in bed.
10-1 (Sunday) Yangon, Myanmar/Burm
May Thu, a girl whom I met through a friend in China, came over to the hotel at 7:30 this morning and gave us her proposal on a tour. Her price included our hotels. We told her we would think about it and let her know. We asked her about changing US dollars into Myanmar Kyats. She said she would send the “money broker” over to our room after we had breakfast.
Breakfast was nothing compared to what we had in Bangkok. Probably the best part was the toast and jelly if that tells you anything.
It was only about 5 minutes after we got back to the room that May Thu arrived with her sister and sister-in-law. They had a plastic bag FULL of money! I couldn’t help but laugh when I saw how much money was in their bag. There are no coins in Myanmar and the 1000 bills are huge. That’s what we mostly use. I changed $150 US into Kyats (pronounced Chats) and Joyce changed $200. I had 200 in 1000 bills plus a few small bills. It was a huge stack of money. You had to rubber band it in sections. I look like Sponge Bob Square Pants because I have so much money in my money belt. I can’t even begin to get the Myanmar money in my belt. Like everyone else I have to carry my loot in at grocery sack!
We decided to go with May Thu and her tour program. Her father was going to be our guide and we would have a driver. We planned to leave the next day at 6 a.m. for Began.
We took a taxi downtown to Scott’s Market just to have a look around. I didn’t have the right kind of current converter with me to recharge my camera battery so I bought a new converter. I also bought a small watercolor for less than $3 and a “pear” necklace for less than $3.
Joyce and I both bought prescription sunglasses for $50 each. That included the frames. The guy said he would have them ready for us by 5:00 that afternoon!
We hired a taxi to drive us by Aung San’s daughter’s house where she has been under house arrest for almost 15 years. The taxi driver almost went pale when I told him we wanted to drive by there. When he found out we wouldn’t stop he agreed to do it. There are police stationed outside her compound and a barricade that they can use to stop traffic if need be. You can’t really see anything but it was interesting. Then we drove to her father’s home where she grew up. It is now a museum. The original furniture was still in place. There was an old caretaker there who took great pleasure in showing us through the whole house and telling us all about it.
We went back to the hotel to rest for a little then we went back to Scott’s Market to pick up our sun glasses. They are wonderful. I can see and read better with them than I can the glasses I had made at home.
On our way home we had the driver drop us off at Shwedagon Pagoda. He dropped us off at the foreigner’s entrance where we had to pay the equivalent of $5 to go up on the lift and tour the pagoda. It started raining while we were up there. Some guy attached himself to us as our unofficial tour guide. Of course he was hoping for a tip for giving us all this information. He didn’t know who he was dealing with. At the end he asked for a tip as I knew he would. Oh well . . .
We took a cab back to the hotel since it was still raining. We went to the grocery store next door and bought juice for the morning. We packed and got ready for our 5 a.m. wake up call.
May Thu, a girl whom I met through a friend in China, came over to the hotel at 7:30 this morning and gave us her proposal on a tour. Her price included our hotels. We told her we would think about it and let her know. We asked her about changing US dollars into Myanmar Kyats. She said she would send the “money broker” over to our room after we had breakfast.
Breakfast was nothing compared to what we had in Bangkok. Probably the best part was the toast and jelly if that tells you anything.
It was only about 5 minutes after we got back to the room that May Thu arrived with her sister and sister-in-law. They had a plastic bag FULL of money! I couldn’t help but laugh when I saw how much money was in their bag. There are no coins in Myanmar and the 1000 bills are huge. That’s what we mostly use. I changed $150 US into Kyats (pronounced Chats) and Joyce changed $200. I had 200 in 1000 bills plus a few small bills. It was a huge stack of money. You had to rubber band it in sections. I look like Sponge Bob Square Pants because I have so much money in my money belt. I can’t even begin to get the Myanmar money in my belt. Like everyone else I have to carry my loot in at grocery sack!
We decided to go with May Thu and her tour program. Her father was going to be our guide and we would have a driver. We planned to leave the next day at 6 a.m. for Began.
We took a taxi downtown to Scott’s Market just to have a look around. I didn’t have the right kind of current converter with me to recharge my camera battery so I bought a new converter. I also bought a small watercolor for less than $3 and a “pear” necklace for less than $3.
Joyce and I both bought prescription sunglasses for $50 each. That included the frames. The guy said he would have them ready for us by 5:00 that afternoon!
We hired a taxi to drive us by Aung San’s daughter’s house where she has been under house arrest for almost 15 years. The taxi driver almost went pale when I told him we wanted to drive by there. When he found out we wouldn’t stop he agreed to do it. There are police stationed outside her compound and a barricade that they can use to stop traffic if need be. You can’t really see anything but it was interesting. Then we drove to her father’s home where she grew up. It is now a museum. The original furniture was still in place. There was an old caretaker there who took great pleasure in showing us through the whole house and telling us all about it.
We went back to the hotel to rest for a little then we went back to Scott’s Market to pick up our sun glasses. They are wonderful. I can see and read better with them than I can the glasses I had made at home.
On our way home we had the driver drop us off at Shwedagon Pagoda. He dropped us off at the foreigner’s entrance where we had to pay the equivalent of $5 to go up on the lift and tour the pagoda. It started raining while we were up there. Some guy attached himself to us as our unofficial tour guide. Of course he was hoping for a tip for giving us all this information. He didn’t know who he was dealing with. At the end he asked for a tip as I knew he would. Oh well . . .
We took a cab back to the hotel since it was still raining. We went to the grocery store next door and bought juice for the morning. We packed and got ready for our 5 a.m. wake up call.
9-30 (Saturday) Yangon, Myanmar/Burma
I still haven’t been able to sleep through the night since I have left the
We finished packing, had breakfast, very briefly went to the internet and left for the airport at 8:30. It took an hour to get there even though there was very little traffic since it was Saturday. The taxi cost $8.50.
We were leaving from the brand new airport which opened on the 28th of this month. Just three days ago. It was very impressive in its size and architecture. I believe it is the largest in the world. We checked our luggage, paid our airport tax and went to the gate. The pilot was sitting a couple seats down from us. I started talking to him and had my picture taken with him. Like the taxi driver yesterday this guy didn’t look like he was old enough to fly a plane but I must say he was very handsome. The Myanmar Volleyball team was on the plane with us. The came in 3rd in the tournament. I think
The flight was only an hour but we were served lunch! That would NEVER happen in the states. You’d be lucky to get a tiny bag of pretzels.
After we touched down we boarded a bus and were driven to the terminal. It was kinda dumpy but it looked like they were trying to build something else. Usually entering a country at visa control the foreigner’s line is the longest – not here- there were very few foreigners entering
After getting our luggage and making our way towards the outside some guy came up to me and said he would take us to the hotel for $5 US. That sounded like a good deal so we took it.
Our hotel was the Yusana. The first room they took us to reeked of smoke so they moved us to another room which they sprayed right before we entered. From our window we had a fantastic view of the Shwedagon Pagoda, the most famous pagoda in
After we were all checked in we walked to the Shwedagon Pagoda. We were walking through “neighborhoods” and down back alleys. We couldn’t believe how poor the people are. It is really heartbreaking. They like in dirty little shacks that look like they could tumble down in a soft breeze.
Two young boys started “hustling” us for money. They wanted us to buy plastic bags from them to put our shoes in when we went into the pagoda. We ended up not going in because you had to take off your socks as well as shoes plus I was wearing shorts.
We walked though a street market on the way home. I took a lot of pictures. People really stared at us like they had not seen foreigners before.
After we got back to the hotel and caught our breath we went off to do the internet. It was on the second floor of some department store. There were all guys in there mostly playing games. The net went so slow that we gave up on it and walked back to the hotel.
9-29 (Friday) Bangkok, Thailand
I was awake at 1:30 a.m. I kept hearing a siren on and off for hours. I was wondering if something was going on with the coup. I think I might have fallen asleep about a half hour before we got up at 5 a.m.
We were downstairs for breakfast by 5:50. We were to meet our tour to the River Kwai in the lobby at 6:30. When the guide arrived she tried to switch us off to another tour (of the old city of
We stopped first at the war museum. There were old photos showing the prisoners and the terrible conditions under which they had to live and die. It was very sad. Next we went to the bridge. We walked across it and took pictures. As we were walking back across a train was coming towards us. There are platforms along the bridge that you can get on to let the train pass so we hopped onto one of those just in the nick of time.
We went back to the van and drove to another location where we boarded the train and rode along the same tracks that the prisoners had built. A group of school children were taking a field trip and were in the same car with me. I sat down next to a couple of them and scared them to death. They were really cute in their school uniforms. We had a lovely buffet lunch when we got off the train. Afterwards we walked along the railway to a cave that had been used as a hospital for the prisoners. I walked way back in it where bats were flying around.
We went on to an elephant camp. The idea was for us to pay and take a short ride. I’d done it before and thankfully Joyce didn’t want to so we departed. We drove a long way to the cemetery where all the deceased prisoner’s bodies were brought to be laid to rest. It was sad to see how many graves were there and how young the men were that lost their lives. There were many different nationalities represented . . . the Brits, Americans, Aussies and Asians.
We were just leaving to return to
If I thought the previous driver was a speed demon he was nothing compared to the new driver. First of all he looked like a teenager and not old enough to even have a license. He reminded me of a horse who knows he’s on his way back to his barn, he will go at lightening speed and not let anything stop him. It felt like we were going about 80 mph. Going that fast when you are right on the bumper of the car in front of you is not good. There would be two lanes of traffic and he would make his own 3rd lane by going right between the two. Motorcycles do this all the time but cars? Then he would pass on the right shoulder of the road. I know anyone who has ever been to
Before going to the room we stopped by Peter’s office (he’s our travel agent) and picked up our air tickets to
I was beat from not sleeping AGAIN. We did the internet very briefly then settled in for the evening. I took a shower and washed my hair. We packed up to leave in the morning.
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